Oppo-pinions Brakes edition

"R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet" (r-saldana) 02/18/2015 at 17:47 • Filed to: None

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It is time to conduct a large overhaul of my brakes on the Disco. Last year I did not have time nor desire to get new rotors, even though I really probably should have. So this year i am thinking of being more prepared for the excess weight of a roof rack, Howling moon stargazer tent, ARB front bumper, Rovertym rear bumper, modular rear door system, tri-battery system, many excessive exterior lights, and a Terrafirma 4" lift.

How will I do this you ask? Justin has a cross drilled and vented set of rotors all around for the Disco 2. For a reasonable price of around $330 for the set.

What are the pro's and con's of switching to a set of higher spec brake rotors? Will i improve anything at all? Will my Disco suddenly brake and corner like a Volvo touring car??? Please place your thought here:

This is a similar set, although they are for a RR Sport Supercharged, but similar bolt pattern (may have to go up in wheel size to fit them though)

And have a bonkers BMW engined Defender from South Africa for your time.

Say it with my folks......."Dafunk???"

44444444444 > R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet 02/18/2015 at 17:53

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Pads and rotors won't do much... Look at whatever crap Atlantic British has and buy it off RockAuto. Only if you swap calipers will you see a massive benefit. The brakes are decently sized for the car as is.

E. Julius > R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet 02/18/2015 at 17:53

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I bet this thing could go like 500,000 miles without needing any repairs.

Party-vi > R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet 02/18/2015 at 17:56

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My thought is you'll never get your brakes hot enough to see the benefit of drillings and slotting outweigh the loss of rotor surface area.

Funktheduck > R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet 02/18/2015 at 18:01

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I've read that drilled rotors are actually worse than non drilled because heat sink or something. Don't really remember.

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet 02/18/2015 at 18:07

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Drilling and slotting is only really useful if you intend to brake, brake, brake, and brake some more and have to lose extra heat. Higher spec pads may be a better option for usable brake force and life.

jlmounce > R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet 02/18/2015 at 18:08

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Adding rotor size has a couple of benefits. It increases breaking torque and in many applications also increases thermal mass. If you're running larger, heavier wheels, that additional brake torque will help offset the additional rotation mass you're trying to slow down.

The downfall of a larger rotor with more mass is just that...rotational mass. You may notice a slight decrease in acceleration and fuel economy.

As far as drilled and slotted rotors go, they look cool, but that's about it. Since you're talking about a Discovery and a lift, I'm going to go out on a limb and assume you're off-roading the vehicle, which is less brake intensive then something like hot-lapping a car on a circuit. If you want the look, more power to you. If you're not concerned about the look as much, try and find a blank rotor, they're less prone to cracking.

HammerheadFistpunch > R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet 02/18/2015 at 18:13

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Ah the "reliable" engine swap

crowmolly > R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet 02/18/2015 at 19:01

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I'd go with blank rotors and good pads.

Textured Soy Protein > R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet 02/18/2015 at 19:13

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Of the easy brake upgrades, fancy rotors (in the stock size) provide the least additional benefit. If you do want something other than just plain regular rotors, stick with slots, not drilled. The slots help shed water off the rotors in the rain but that's about it.

You will see much more of an improvement from good pads, and also stainless brake lines will help firm up the pedal.

I tried several different performance pads over the years including Axxis/PBR, Hawk & EBC. My favorites were EBC Redstuff but that doesn't appear to be an option for trucks.

They do have EBC Greenstuff 6000 Series pads for the Disco. I'd go with those, some stainless lines, and either plain or slotted rotors.

R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet > 44444444444 02/18/2015 at 19:20

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I had previously acquired a set of 04 Cayenne GTS rotors and calipers and intended to put them on the Rover, but alas i needed some money and sold them.

R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet > E. Julius 02/18/2015 at 19:21

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..........lol

R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet > Party-vi 02/18/2015 at 19:21

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interesting, I didn't realize that they limited the braking surface, because you know simple ass physics.

R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 02/18/2015 at 19:22

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Could you recommend? Also what spec brake fluid would get me the best performance and reasonable road life?

R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet > jlmounce 02/18/2015 at 19:24

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The off roading I intend to do is more in the Overlanding sphere, so I need something that can adjust with the added weight of Overland equipment. Do you recommend blanks and better than spec pads?

R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet > HammerheadFistpunch 02/18/2015 at 19:25

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i know right? This just screams i have been there, and by there I mean outside in the back lot of a indy mechanics shop for 10 years

R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet > crowmolly 02/18/2015 at 19:26

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Recommend me some really good pads. And maybe even some calipers that may fit under either an 18" or 17" wheel

R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet > Textured Soy Protein 02/18/2015 at 19:27

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I will be doing the lines when I do my 4" lift (rear driveshaft conversion, trailing/radius arms, shocks and springs, and sway bar disconnects

ShelbyRacer78-Fusion Modifier > R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet 02/18/2015 at 19:37

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I'm getting EBC pads for my Sable soon, along with new rotors and replacing everything in the rear (drums back there).

Ramblin Rover - The Vivisector of Solihull > R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet 02/18/2015 at 20:32

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Sorry not to get back - I left work. DOT 5+ (the glycol stuff, not silicone) mixes with 3 and 4 fine (IIRC) and holds up to better temps. The pads - maybe ceramic? They'll take more pressure to a degree, wear slower.

e36Jeff now drives a ZHP > Funktheduck 02/18/2015 at 21:58

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This lays it out pretty good: http://www.turnermotorsport.com/t-buying-guide…

tldr: use blanks. unless you are using out-gassing track pads, then use drilled. But those don't really exist anymore, so use blanks.

AMGtech - now with more recalls! > R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet 02/18/2015 at 22:55

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I've had loads of customers with similar setups to yours and not have issues, even doing multi day off road trips and up and down in the mountains. I suggest getting some decent rotors that are not slotted or drilled, some decent pads, braided stainless brake lines and all new DOT4 brake fluid properly bled. I liked to use OE spec Brembo rotors and Akebono Euro pads. Anything beyond that will be a waste of time and just plain overkill. EBC pads are also quite good.

crowmolly > R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet 02/19/2015 at 08:43

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What's your budget? And year of the disco?

R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet > crowmolly 02/19/2015 at 11:38

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My Disco is a Series 2, 2003. My budget is probably not too much more than $750-$1250.

jlmounce > R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet 02/19/2015 at 16:24

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Both. Here's the thing about slotted/crossdrilled rotors, unless they are cast with those features, they are extremely prone to cracking. If you're looking at a set of rotors that are drilled and slotted for $330.00 a set, those are not as cast copies. The slots and drills are done after casting. These features are largely just for show these days anyhow. The reason for their existance is because pads used to offgas quite a bit back in the 50's and 60's. That would create a thin layer of gas between the rotor and pad which hindered braking. Modern pad compounds don't do this. But it looks cool and racey so....

For the heat load you're likely going to be seeing I would recommend the blank rotors with something like a Hawk HP+ pad. Something that is still going to work on the street, but allow you to run some hotter temps through the pads as well. Don't forget to upgrade your brake fluid as well. ATE Type 200/Super Blue, Motul 600 etc. Those will all do the job you want. The last thing you want is to boil your fluid at the caliper because it couldn't handle the heat.

R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet > jlmounce 02/19/2015 at 16:36

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Thanks