"Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)" (rduncan5678)
12/28/2015 at 15:23 • Filed to: None | 1 | 22 |
I definitely love this stuff. Just changed my valve cover gasket the other day and then did my oil and filter. For the oil change I used Mobil 1 Extended Performance as I always have. For the price this is some great oil that I definitely swear by. I know some people have their own favorites but this stuff is great for my Miata. This time I used a Mobil 1 filter as well since I had questions about the Fram Extraguard filter I used last time. 8-10k miles to an oil change is great!
Excuse the poor lighting, but I figured I would take a picture inside the Valve cover while I had it off. This kinda stuff always is entertaining for me to look at. Keep in mind the oil in there is still the dirty stuff. But even so, it looks much cleaner in there than my Civic did, that is for sure. And this car has more miles!
TylerJ
> Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
12/28/2015 at 15:36 | 1 |
IIRC, Mobil1 stopped being an actual full synthetic oil back in ‘09 or so. They had sued Castrol since Castrol used a synthetic blend and called it “full synthetic”. They lost the case and said screw it we won’t spend money on full synthetic either and switched to a blend.
Amsoil is the only one using a true full synthetic oil now.
Shift24
> Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
12/28/2015 at 15:47 | 0 |
I try to stick to Mobil but anymore I care more about the filter than the oil. I feel we pretty much hit the high point in oil and the only thing keeping the oil clean for 3-5000 miles is that filter.
JDIGGS
> Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
12/28/2015 at 16:34 | 1 |
I run the regular mobil 1 syn in my turbo subaru, I’ve run it in 3 of them. I had great chat with my well known tuner once after a track day and he was mentioning how he was surprised my car has taken so much abuse with no problems , and I reminded him I use mobil 1 syn which of course made him laugh because it has a horrible stigma in the subaru community, mainly because of the internet warrior #trolllife
lunr
> JDIGGS
12/28/2015 at 16:47 | 0 |
The FB25 engines in the later-model Foresters have been known to burn oil, some worse than others. Between when I bought my Forester from the dealer, who put god knows what in there, and my first oil change, by 6000 miles, it had burned a little less than a quart of oil. When I did the oil change I put in Mobil1 Syn 0W-20, and I’m nearing another oil change with barely any movement on the dip stick. Good stuff.
RacinBob
> Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
12/28/2015 at 19:37 | 1 |
I use regular Mobil 1 in my race car and street cars. Race car gets oil changed once a season - about 7 races. Street car gets changed once a year, at about 10,000 miles for my ‘07 Si, 13,000 miles for her ‘02 Si. It must work, never had a bearing problem in any of my race cars.
Still getting about 5,000 miles to the quart in her car at 190,000 miles. Engines are clean as a whistle inside. Great stuff.
RacinBob
> TylerJ
12/28/2015 at 19:47 | 1 |
I recall the discussion about whether FTC would allow synthetic blends to be called synthetic. I believe the result was if there is 1% synthetic, it can be called synthetic.
I don’t believe that you are correct though, saying that Mobil 1 is not a full synthetic oil. That’s exactly what Mobil says their oil is. http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lu…
I am not with Mobil but I think they would stongly disagree with you.
RacinBob
> Shift24
12/28/2015 at 20:01 | 2 |
I think people misunderstand why full synthetics work and why they are much better than blends. Here is what I understand from our PHD who works with lubricants.
Petroleum based oils are first of all not very slippery. They are a lot more like gasolene. What makes oil slippery is the additives. However additives wear out. Some people never change oil, just topp it off. When you see one of those cars in the shop, you can tell immediately because if you run your fingers through the oil, it’s gritty like gasoline, all the additives have worn out. Also you will note that the motor is full of gunk. (where does gunk from)?.....
Well, guess what, Synthetic Oils, are naturaly slippery. They never wear out. Advantage to synthetics. Also, remember the Mobil 1 commercial with the ftying pan. Synthetic Ester Oil molecules are incredibly stable and don’t break down at engine operating temps. That’s why the engines stay so clean. Meanwhile mineral oil is really just a mishmash of organics, many of which react at operating temps. So mineral can’t stay clean, because its breakdown causes all the crud. Game set and match for full synthetics.
As for the filter, I don’t think micron level debris causes any problems, at least in modern tight engines with virtually no blowby. Never seen much benefit to doing anything other than changing the filter when I change the oil....
hike
> Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
12/28/2015 at 21:20 | 0 |
I put Mobil in my cars. Just bought some high mileage for the Infiniti. Not really sure if it makes much of a difference, but the price difference wasn't to bad that I cared. Using a Magneti Marelli filter with it. They make some seriously underrated parts.
treesmakewater
> RacinBob
12/28/2015 at 22:41 | 2 |
It isn’t a full synthetic scientifically, but legally in the US it is. If you want a true full synthetic use pentosin or any other Belgium/ German oil
Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
> TylerJ
12/29/2015 at 08:02 | 0 |
I will have to look into this some more. Thanks for the info.
Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
> hike
12/29/2015 at 08:08 | 0 |
I think it would be very difficult to tell the difference on your own without going through a high number of cars over a lot of miles (which would surely take a long time). So it is more trusting studies and others’ advice. Most synthetics seem pretty affordable as long as you are changing the oil yourself. The quick lubes seem to charge out the ass though for it!
Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
> RacinBob
12/29/2015 at 08:12 | 0 |
Regular Mobil 1 as in just the grey bottle of full synthetic? I figured the extended performance would be a little bit better since it is rated for 15k miles. Idk how long the regular one is supposed to be rated for. Makes me wonder if I am just wasting the extra $5 lol.
RacinBob
> treesmakewater
12/29/2015 at 08:18 | 0 |
At this point I am at the limit of my knowledge. Personally I am wary of synthetic blend that might be 20% synthetic and a fully synthetic such as mobil 1. My suspician is any mineral oil (other than additives) eliminates the wear and life benefits.
That said, I suspect the differences between Mobil 1 and other full synthetics are small. The differences between it and the blends containing significant amounts of mineral oil not so small. The peace of mind of three vehicles (one is my tow van) and one oil change a year going 10,000 miles each , the premium is worth it. Not to mention a race car too.
For what it’s worth, I have been in indy paddocks and seen them adding it straight from the bottle. Works for them, works for me.
hike
> Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
12/29/2015 at 09:09 | 0 |
Most places charge a ton for it. It's marked up like crazy from the manufacturer, even though it's really not more expensive to produce. I did find that my local Mazda dealer had a crazy good price for a synthetic oil change, but still more expensive than doing it myself.
Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
> hike
12/29/2015 at 09:22 | 0 |
Its kinda wild that the cost for a regular oil change can sometimes actually be CHEAPER than doing it yourself. When places run specials or whatever to get people in the door. It is why I can never get through to people who think I am crazy for always changing my own oil instead of just going to Jiffy Lube or whatever.
hike
> Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
12/29/2015 at 09:26 | 1 |
My local Precision Tune used to have a special on Groupon for 2 regular 5 qt oil changes for 20 bucks. No way I could beat that myself. They were great to work with though and would definitely go back and have sent people there. Mostly Honda's because they guy that runs the place is Honda master certified.
TylerJ
> RacinBob
12/29/2015 at 11:05 | 0 |
I spent most of this morning trying to find the post where I got that info, and I can’t find it.
Found a bunch of people over on BobIsTheOilGuy saying that most of Mobil1’s Synthetic EP line is Group IV with additives added to it using Group III oils since additives don’t mix well with Group IV. Also that some weights aren’t Group IV at all, but no one would actually say which weights.
treesmakewater
> RacinBob
12/30/2015 at 08:44 | 0 |
The “full synthetic” in the US may not be a true synthetic, but it still works fine for most applications. You see the biggest differences in high power designs that require full synthetic and were made in the early 2000’s (looking at you Audi).
Some info to add knowledge for yourself.
Full synthetic in the early 90’s in the US, and even today in Europe use a PAO base stock and are group IV oils.
The US uses group III as stated below:
Since a 1997 court case brought on by Mobil against Castrol (in the US), and subsequently won by Castrol granted anyone to produce their non-PAO Group III base oil and sell it as a full synthetic, again, ONLY in the United States
The only two true synthetic oil made in the US is amzoil and (possibly) royal purple.
Shift24
> RacinBob
12/31/2015 at 21:45 | 0 |
Was meaning synthetic oil but ok lets run with this, by your logic why ever change your oil if its synthetic if it never wears out? I guess then why even have an oil filter?
Ask BMW or any automotive tech that works for a manufacture that recommends 15K oil changes why that is a horrible idea. Below is an engine that followed BMWs recommended 15k synthetic oil change with synthetic oil. Clean right? Wounder why BMW reduced that that interval to 10k? Look I know a decent amount about synthetic oil (CHE) and its advantages but you are making it sound like its an end all if you use conventional. If you change it regularly it 3-5k like i said, the Oil doesnt matter. Those “additives” should still be there lubricating the engine.
On Oil filters. They are there to help prevent some of the “gunk” but mainly to keep foreign material out, carbon from combustion, and catch parts of the engine as it wears. Not saying its much but still dont want it back in the engine. And these filters will eventually become full and need changed or the filter paper is just bypassed allowing dirty oil back into the engine. Also this study kind of gives you a feel of why i said i care more about the filter than the oil. The more it can filter the better for me.
http://www.gmtruckcentral.com/articles/oilfi…
gmporschenut also a fan of hondas
> Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
12/31/2015 at 22:35 | 0 |
I always use mobil 1 in my DD. I ended up getting the non extended and noticed I hit 25% 300 miles sooner.
I never let it hit below 25% and the thought of pushing to 15k scares me.
Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)
> gmporschenut also a fan of hondas
12/31/2015 at 23:13 | 0 |
Yeah I could never imagine actually going 15k. But I enjoy going 10k and feeling like that is well within the ability. As long as I also use a 15k filter. I haven't tried the regular stuff but the price difference is so miniscule that I figure this must be better.
RacinBob
> Shift24
01/01/2016 at 00:53 | 0 |
Here’s how I would answer a couple of your questions. 1st, if it’s your gear box or a large sealed refrigeration system, you do run it forever. But not an engine because although they are much tighter, there are contaminents that get in the oil and if you wait long enough, they become significant and a problem.
In terms of the filter, remember the filter is bypassed every time you cold start due to high pressures with cold oil. So there is plenty of opportunity for the contaminents to get to the engine, I think the role of the filter is more to get the chunks out of the stream, but I have seen plenty of chunks get by including most of a oil squirter.
I can’t comment on BMW’s policy, though I probably will rethink my strategy if I get a Si turbo next as coking in bearing changes everything. I believe the picture you post is most certainly an engine with mineral oil that has never changed. I have had many engines apart and never seen any debris in a synthetic oil engine. I will read the study, but if the oil keeps contaminents in suspension without harm at 15,000 miles, is a better filter just overkill?