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"BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires" (biturbo228) 12/17/2015 at 07:56 • Filed to: None

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!!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! What’s everyone’s automotive to-do list looking like?

Alfa 156 V6 (current daily driver)

-Just finished my second alternator removal (google the guide, it’s not fun) because the ‘recon’ alternator I swapped in was just cleaned and died shortly after I swapped it in the first time (faulty voltage regulator). Works fine now so job done!

-Clicking noise while turning. Definite symptom of wear on a CV joint. Seeing as I had to remove this each time I took the alternator out I can do it in about 45 minutes now. Can’t get them new anymore so have to get an exchange unit which means I need another car to drive in the meantime. I got this, but depends on other things.

-Rumbling on the O/S front. Poss wheelbearing although I did have that one changed a year or so ago by a garage. Other options are a bush worn somewhere so a wishbone or something is contacting the body transmitting road noise. Don’t know if got this til something breaks more.

Citroen BX (backup daily driver)

-Just finished replacing water pump and timing belt as it decided it wanted to pump water out of the engine rather than through it. Job done!

-What was a minor leak of hydraulic fluid at the rear that could be marked down to ‘character’ has now developed into something where I have to top it up every morning to get the suspension to rise, and would leave nasty oil-slicks right where people are braking for junctions. You can get hydraulic pipe made up with the unions for fairly cheap though so I got this, just needs time.

Jaguar XJ40 (other backup daily driver)

-My dad recently put this through MOT for me because I was borrowing his car while I fixed the Alfa and the clutch hydraulics (we think) gave up the ghost. Fixed a couple of things I’d have missed so excellent!

-It’s got new springs on the back and old sagged springs at the front so it’s tipped forward a bit which makes it unpleasant to drive. I don’t like the standard height springs either so it needs a full set of lowered ones (£195). Rears are easy. Simple coilovers. Fronts have an odd setup where the springs are curved and need a special compressor tool to get them out safely (they’ve been known to crack concrete floors when they jump out of standard compressors). Need to either hire the special tool from the Jag club or make one myself out of threaded bar. Probably got this, but needs funds...

-Audible rumble from the rear is either the diff bearings which I knew I should have changed when I put the LSD in or hopefully a wheel bearing. It’s a big job getting the rear suspension unit apart to change the bearings (which a machine shop we took them to couldn’t get them off last time, hence why the old ones went back in). Should be a little easier though as the bolts won’t have corroded into place like last time. Need to determine where the noise is coming from by jacking up the rear, putting it in gear with the engine running and holding an extension bar against my jaw and the offending units. Should transmit the noise straight to my ear when I get the right one...

Triumph Spitfire ( the project)

-Right. Here’s the list. Weld brackets for fuel pumps

-Weld pickup line into fuel tank

-Fabricate tuned-length inlet trumpets

-Paint chassis

-Fabricate battery bracket in the boot

-Paint body

-Fabricate roll hoop

-Lower intake manifolds so they clear the bonnet

-Fabricate 6-3-1 manifold (off-the-shelf ones are either sub-optimal or bloody expensive)

-Fabricate exhaust system (if I’m doing the manifold the rest shouldn’t be too much more effort

-Fit engine ancilliaries

-Build rear suspension/hubs

-Build front suspension/hubs

-Reseal 4-pot calipers bought off eBay

-Rebuild diff with Quaife LSD

-Maybe fit a rear ARB?

-Fabricate bonnet mounts

-Maybe move the engine back an inch or so to get more clearance for the 6-3-1 manifold and the steering rack

-Fix my janky cheap eBay fibreglass bonnet

-Bond on my fibreglass hardtop/fabricate mounting brackets

-Plumb fuel system

-Plumb brake system

-Make loom (electrics is my least-confident area)

-Re-trim seats

-Fabricate gearbox tunnel

-Fit interior and dashboard

-Drive!

Suzuki GS500 (bought for £50!)

-Got it running after rebuilding carbs and flushing rust out of fuel tank.

-Needs a new choke cable as it pulls it out when you turn right. Not ideal.

-Rear brake needs plumbing in

-Cuts out with light throttle under load, such as when pulling away. Prob valve clearances?

-Oh yeah, need to learn how to ride a bike...

Lada Niva (currently used like a tractor by my mum and sister for their horses)

-Replaced the front and rear diffs as they’d torn themselves to pieces. Replaced steering box as that had nearly half a rotation of play and when we adjusted it it broke.

-Needs the brake system sorting, probably master cylinder as only one of the two circuits works

-RUST

-Probably a whole host of other things if I want it to actually be roadworthy

Other Jag XJ40 (first project, got hit by a tree and has sat since)

-Probably need to scrap it, although there’s a part of me that wants to stick big knobbly offroad tyres on it and go off-roading (needs a transmission and a throttle body for that). Good source of spar parts til then though.

That’s it for cars directly owned by me. Now onto cars my dad owns but I work on and can drive if/when I get them going:

Maserati 228

-Shitloads of rust. Was getting there to being restored when it got hit by the same tree that did the Jag in and has sat since then. Not too badly damaged from the tree though.

-Managed to break the windscreen which is a big, big problem as they only made 469 of them ever and we’re not certain whether a regular Biturbo screen will fit. This could be a dealbraker.

-Since sitting it’s stopped running on all 6 cylinders. Probably just needs a bit of jiggling around/cleaning.

Maserati 430

-Just been through an exterior restoration by the PO so it’s lovely outside!

-Engine doesn’t start. We think it’s the fuel pump, but I can’t remember whether my dad changed that or not. Old one definitely wasn’t working.

-Missing it’s backboxes. I keep telling my dad it’ll sound damn cool without them but he’s not convinced...

-There’s this odd clunk when we turn the engine over. Hoping it’s just noise coming transmitted through the open exhaust, or something fouling on that. If it’s something more serious the 228 might become an engine donor for a while.

Porsche 914/6

-Needs the wider rear arches re-fibreglassing to the bodyshell

-Rear bootlid needs repainting

-Brakes stuck on the rear. Cleaned them off a while ago but didn’t quite do the trick

-Gearbox linkage needs freeing off

-One of the idle jets on the Webers is gunked up so it only runs on 5 cylinders at idle. My dad took them to a Weber specialist a while ago who completely failed to fix it so we’ll likely do that ourselves.

-Rear springs are 914/4 springs so too soft for the 6-cyl at the back. We have the springs, just need to swap them in

MG TC

-Very annoyingly it was sheltering in a marquee that got blown over and dented the hardtop, a wing and one of the headlights which will need rechroming (£££)

-Had a new fuel pump fitted which is a start, but needs a coolant leak on the rad chasing down

-Valve clearances need doing but that’s piss-easy on a ‘40s engine

-Brakes probably need freeing off, as does the throttle cable

Alfa 156 2.4 JTD SW

-My dad’s DD which had it’s clutch die while I was driving it (I think I’m cursed). Could have done with a new clutch a while ago as he said it’s been slipping for a while.

MG F VVC

-Recent purchase by my dad as I think he just fancied a new DD. So far we’ve diagnosed a rough running problem at low revs to someone having put the plugs on the wrong way round for the VVT solenoid, welded a patch onto the front subframe near the suspension mount and replaced the aftermarket HAI (hot air intake) with the stock setup which takes it from a vent on the side.

-Needs a new alternator as it died on the way back from the garage

-Needs the hydragas spheres filling back up

-Needs a suspension link replacing

And I think that’s it.

Oh, we also need to build a garage to do this work in (apart from the spitfire as that’s taking up the only one we have). Oh, and I’m currently building a car trailer from an old caravan chassis we ‘recovered’ so we can take my sister’s boyfriend’s new Peugeot 106 racecar to and from the track (and maybe pick up more cars!).

Anyway. Good to keep busy!

Sovereign, Purveyor of Coupes > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 08:24

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Currently replacing gaskets on a filthy 302. One of the dirtiest engines I’ve worked on in a long time -.-

I actually found a piece of bone tucked into the engine. I’m assuming it’s from a deer that messed up the front end.

Master Cylinder > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 08:48

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Wow. I think—no, I know— I’d be divorced if I had a list like that. Good luck to you, sir.

My own list only involves one car, my 944S:

- Reupholster dashboard, center console, and door panels.

- Fix/replace saggy headliner.

- Install new carpet

- Cut out unnecessary rear seat mounts

- Re-seal doors, windows, sunroof

- Replace missing upper engine bay cover

- Replace dying transaxle

- Build new exhaust system

- Replace heavy stock battery with lightweight

- Rebuild engine

- Install/tune Megasquirt ECU to replace flaky old Bosch electronics

- Replace bumpers, fenders, and hood with FG replicas

- Repair dents

- Repaint

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > Master Cylinder 12/17/2015 at 08:56

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Thankyou! GF, but not married yet. Can be tricky striking a balance but she’s a lot better with it than a number of horror stories about ‘er indoors’ I’ve heard :)

Nice list you’ve got there though. Couple of big jobs like engine rebuild and transaxle replacement (why does it need replacing?).

Is the S a 3.0l 16v one, or a 2.5l 16v? Can’t quite remember. If it’s a 2.5l you could search around for a 3.0l from a 968 if you’re going standalone injection.

Oh, and ITBs. You’ll want those too ;)

I wonder if anyone's done a high-power NA 944/924/968...

facw > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 08:57

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Volvo S40:

Take car for oil change

Continue ignoring infrequent loud metallic noise

Maybe see if I can find any useful parts at a pick and pull.

Yeah, I’m an apartment dweller so doing any real work is out of the question due to limited tool storage.

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > Sovereign, Purveyor of Coupes 12/17/2015 at 08:58

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All my engines are like that unfortunately. It’s partially because I don’t really have time to clean them, but mostly because I don’t believe in cleaning them. A thin layer of oil and dust does rather well at protecting metal where the paint’s chipped off.

Have a look at any car with an oil leak somewhere and the metal beneath it will be spotless even if the paint's entirely gone...

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > facw 12/17/2015 at 09:00

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Ah that sucks. That's a stipulation for any house me and my GF get in the future. Must have garage space (or be close enough to my parent's that I can nip back to work on things...).

duurtlang > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 09:05

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‘97 Mitsubishi Galant wagon (street legal €500 banger for a winter rally through the Alps)

Most of the work already done (brakes, suspension, oil).

Needs a new inspection, winter tires, alignment.

Clock has a mind of its own.

There’s still no radio in the car.

I still need to check plugs/filters

‘88 Peugeot 205 GTI

Re-install rear bumper properly

Thorough detailing

Sale

‘97 Peugeot 306 convertible

Replace some brake part in the back (unsure about the English translation; “remkrachtverdeler”)

Replace elastic bands in the power roof, for better folding.

Thorough detailing

Sale

‘00 Peugeot 406 coupe (daily driver)

Have the LPG fuel system preventively serviced, for the first time

Source new summer tires before the winter season is over

‘13 Ford Focus (company car)

Not a damn thing. Don’t care either way.

‘91 Golf (first car)

Let it rest for a few more years

‘87 Peugeot 205 CTI (project)

Too much to mention really

exhaust

power windows

power locks

belts

filters

oil

gaskets

roof

front bumper

a bit of rust

possibly cylinders

more, much more.

MontegoMan562 is a Capri RS Owner > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 09:08

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Holy crap that’s a huge list.

Mine:

Montego :

Decide how to replace freeze plugs. Pull Motor, or drop out Trans. Trans might not be enough so I may be pulling the motor

If I pull the motor what else needs to be done? Pull off the heads maybe? Full rebuild?

Get Floors patched

CARPET

Headliner replaced

Rear deck board replaced

Paint/Body

New tires

Repaint my Mag 500’s that are currently living in the trunk

Fix driver’s side window.

Milan :

Replace shocks/struts

Replace Spark Plugs

Fix exhaust hanger

Possibly ANOTHER set of brake pads

Jeep :

Nothing.

Weird.

Master Cylinder > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 09:16

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The engine rebuild is for a little extra power and peace of mind on longevity since it’s got 200K+ miles on it. The transaxle replacement is because the original has the same number of miles and is near the end of its life, judging by the whining bearings, growling gears, and clunky shifting. They can be rebuilt but it’s cheaper to just find a low-mile replacement. Plus I want one with a limited-slip diff.

The S is the 2.5 DOHC. I’ve thought about swapping in the big 3.0 but the S motor has great character that I think I’d miss. It has the highest redline of any of the 924/944/968 series and it just has this fun classic NA motor aspect to it. The gruntier S2 and 968 motors are definitely faster, ththough I think I can bring my S up to stock S2 power levels with the exhaust, Megasquirt, and rebuild (with cams and maybe higher compression pistons).

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > MontegoMan562 is a Capri RS Owner 12/17/2015 at 09:17

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Nothing? That is weird. Suspicious even...

It does seem daunting when I write it all out, but it’s lost quite a few points since I last took the time to take stock.

The Alfa in particular has gone from off the road with numerous problems to happy daily driver, and the Citroen is one job away from the same thing.

Then I'll have something that's pretty much unprecedented so far. Having two functional cars on the road at one time!

Sovereign, Purveyor of Coupes > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 09:20

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For someone that works on cars alot it’s pretty weird but I absolutely can’t stand having dusty crap on my hands. If I’m working on a friends car or a repeat customer I’ll clean their engine spotless free of charge usually so that next time I don’t have to get as dirty.

Pixel > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 09:22

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‘64 Chevy C10 pickup:

-test, re-gasket, paint & install 3-spd overdrive trans, have driveshaft shortened and new carrier bearing installed.

-find and fix oil leak(s).

-grind down & repaint later 15” wheels that can clear disc brakes. Swap tires over. Get spare tire & install on old rim, make old spare carrier work again or fabricate new in-bed spare tire bracket.

-rebuild front suspension, install lowering spindles, upgrade to front disc brakes.

-rebuild heater controls, re-gasket heater box, find issue keeping fan from working consistently.

-replaced rotted floor/rocker sections of replacement cab & paint replacement cab inside & out.

-Install replacement cab.

-replace rotted lower sections on both doors.

-fix minor rust on replacement hood.

-fix rot on bed sides

-weld up two drilled holes in replacement tailgate.

-repaint entire truck

‘04 Scion xB:

-find what is throwing Po441 code & fix/replace it. Hope to hell slow fuel filling issue and bucking right after filling tank are both related.

-replace passenger window switch.

-have A/C system diagnosed & fixed.

-have minor dent in non-rusted hood fixed, have dent in roof fixed, have dent in 1/4 panel fixed.

-either have repaired panels painted or go all-out and have entire car re-done to fix asstastic repaint done by cousin.

‘96 Suzuki ES500E:

-mount replacement tires in garage on rims.

-check\replace wheel bearings & seals.

-replace rear rotor.

-bleed brake system, check all lines.

-check valve adjustment, re-gasket valve cover, check for other oil leaks.

-diagnose sticky clutch, replace cable/plates/basket as needed.

-clean, adjust & sync carbs.

-Find/modify/make a set of rear racks & panniers

-EDIT: paint & install replacement handlebars

-EDIT: fix loose choke cable.

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > duurtlang 12/17/2015 at 09:25

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Impressive list! Looks like you’re inches away from paring it down a little though which should help a lot with project prioritisation (something I’ve only recently come to appreciate...).

I'm thinking 'remkrachtverdeler' is a brake bias valve? Reduces the pressure going to the rear brakes so they don't lock up...

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > Sovereign, Purveyor of Coupes 12/17/2015 at 09:26

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Yeah that is a problem. I’ve found CV grease is the worst. Just will not wash out.

Rubber gloves never seem to work either as snag them on one little sharp thing and they’re useless...

Also, I bet the cleaning gets you a good reputation!

MontegoMan562 is a Capri RS Owner > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 09:28

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whoa, whoa, hold on you mean to tell me that an Alfa and a Citroen are going to be reliable? You’re jumping to conclusions.

It’s a Jeep Commander with a 3.7L and AWD/4x4 system. It’s been pretty solid so far. We did a lift kit and bigger tires on it this summer, brakes were even in great shape. 70k miles.

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > Master Cylinder 12/17/2015 at 09:32

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Nice little plan :)

If you’re looking to improve the power I’d definitely recommend doing some proper tuning with intake lengths and tuned 4-2-1 exhaust manifolds if you can get any. Really make a difference.

This little tool should help in determining what length of intake runners you need to create a pulse-tuning effect at your peak power rpm: http://www.exx.se/techinfo/runne…

Justin Hughes > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 09:33

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I’m quite fortunate. After the fiasco with the Flex’s brakes, I only have one vehicle that needs work right now - the Comanche. But its to-do list is rather long. Here’s what I can think of off the top of my head, in no particular order.

Get it inspected. Hope it passes!

Finagle the bench seat to slide back a few inches.

Find and fix the oil leak.

Change oil and filter.

Replace leaky gas tank. (I can’t fill it more than 3/8.)

Figure out why the engine runs rough and fix it.

Stop oil from dripping into the air box. (Common Jeep 4.0 issue, just haven’t had time to fix.)

Replace driver’s door.

Replace passenger mirror.

Reinstall front tow hooks.

Bedliner the cab floor. (Moisture trapped in the carpet causes rust - ain’t nobody got time fo dat.)

Reinstall the interior.

Replace tape deck with the CD player I saved from the Focus.

Install ham radio.

Modify rear bumper and install receiver hitch.

Get a tire for the extra wheel included with the truck to use as a spare.

Swap XJ spare non-rusty XJ fenders that came with the Comanche onto it.

Paint it one consistent color.

I’m sure I’m missing a lot. It’s a good thing the other cars and my bike are reliable. (Plus my bike’s off the road for the winter.)

ADabOfOppo; Gone Plaid (Instructables Can Be Confusable) > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 09:34

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2002 SVT Focus; Current DD:

1) Sell car once my new car is finally built.

2) Wait on new car to be built. Which, at this point is looking like never. :(

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > ADabOfOppo; Gone Plaid (Instructables Can Be Confusable) 12/17/2015 at 09:36

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New car? Do tell :)

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 09:38

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Ranchero:

Front suspension: Obtain coilovers, make top brackets with cranks, make cross-pins, adapt ball joints, obtain or make camber plates, obtain rubber link bushings, modify sway bushings for grease, build mounts for servos, reassemble

Steering: Obtain Mustang V8 cross-link, Mustang V8 steering box lever and relay, remove old lever from steering box, assemble, modify cross-link and/or oil pan to permit clearance

Transmission and clutch: Obtain clutch, shorten crank or make spacer plate, redrill flywheel for GM clutch, cut clutch lever hole, obtain clutch lever and ball stud, modify block for Z-bar mount, make new Z-bar, make new pushrod, make relay lever block, make trans relay rods, shorten column shift levers to clear engine, improve mount holes for trans crossmember, edit crossmember futher to permit 1/2” higher position, make trans shift levers, make relay levers, assemble

Engine: obtain parts for rebuild, rebuild engine. Relocate holes in engine mount brackets for better centering, lower position. Obtain and modify headers. Obtain injection control computer, improved injectors, make intake manifolds, configure. Obtain V-belt pieces from donor, configure belts on front.

Brakes: Obtain suitable master cylinder, obtain lines, obtain proportioning valve, obtain front disc brake kit and parts, obtain rear pads, assemble

Front clip: finish building front valance. Improve bumper mounts. Obtain radiators and piping, build radiator/hinge support, cut and trim radiator holes, make inlet blocking, repair hood, finish installation of hood hinge, obtain latch, make aluminum grill edge fillers. Repair front fenders.

Rear suspension: modify girder for jet pump, build jet pump bracket. Improve mount holes and bushing seats. Make lower links, build arms/mounts for servos, reassemble

Driveline: Finish mounting of transfer case, obtain two more drive yokes, make jet pump shaft, make transfer to diff shaft, commission trans to transfer case shaft, obtain correct speedo drive gear and cable. Obtain electric controls/lights for transfer case, wire.

Wheels: get wheels and tires, mount

Passenger compartment: Finish rebuilding roof, build T-top arrangement, rebuild rear of cab structure, remake rear cab floor, build midgate reinforcements, build midgate - including glass supports, seals, and motor -obtain rear glass. Obtain rear seat, build mounts. Repair and alter front bed cover/floor piece. Repair existing holes. Obtain door cards. Rework seat mounts for better level. Finish tunnel cover. All dash work, rewiring. Finish air box, obtain heaters, install all

Rear end: finish taillight work, conduct quarter repair, rework gas fill, rework gas tank mounts, hole repair throughout rear bed and top edges. Have trim re-plated. Finish tailgate repair. Obtain tailgate glass and channel. Obtain decking for bed, install.

Overall: clean underside, repaint as needed, seal seams with mastic if needed, coat whole with coal tar epoxy, topcoat. Build belly pans, gaskets, etc. Build exhausts. Remove existing paint from body, old filler, sand/rework/refill/repaint, etc. Fill appropriate voids with two-part marine polyurethane, reseal.

I’ve left off any of the Lincoln project, for obvious reasons - Ranchero is long enough! Some of the shortest items here are also the longest to execute.

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > Justin Hughes 12/17/2015 at 09:40

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That is a sizeable list! Not a great deal for it to be dreiveable though which is nice. Quite a lot to make it nice though...

ADabOfOppo; Gone Plaid (Instructables Can Be Confusable) > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 09:41

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All in good time, my friend.

Justin Hughes > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 09:42

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Yup, that’s the idea. I’ve also already done a bit to make it drivable - lighting, bumper install/modification, reinstall seat belts... And I’ve already used it to help me move!

they-will-know-my-velocity > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 09:44

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and holding an extension bar against my jaw and the offending units. Should transmit the noise straight to my ear when I get the right one...

!!! UNKNOWN CONTENT TYPE !!!

Jesus man, that’s...that actually makes alot of sense but I’ll be damned if I’ve ever heard of someone doing this.

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > MontegoMan562 is a Capri RS Owner 12/17/2015 at 09:45

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Yep :) people seldom believe me ;)

The Alfa has given me many years of service and has only stranded me once (the ‘recon’ alternator).

The Citroen’s one of those unkillable XUD non-turbo diesels that after they reach 200,000 miles in Europe get sold to a chap in Africa and go on to do another 200,000 miles. Africa is the afterlife of PSA diesels...

And I only bought it for £256!

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > Pixel 12/17/2015 at 09:49

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Nice :) plenty to be getting along with.

Is the Scion your DD? Not great having to work on your DD while not having another form of transport...

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > they-will-know-my-velocity 12/17/2015 at 09:51

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We'll see how well it works :) came from the idea of sticking a hosepipe to your ear so you can point the other end in different directions and pinpoint where a noise is coming from, but if it's vibration your jawbone transmits that directly to your inner ear so should work really well :)

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > ADabOfOppo; Gone Plaid (Instructables Can Be Confusable) 12/17/2015 at 09:55

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Very mysterious ;)

duurtlang > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 09:56

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Well, I’m constantly switching between scaling down and a lack of self control resulting in scaling up. The downside is that, until very recently, I couldn’t do much more than changing a bulb or wiper. Yesterday was the first time I changed oil, for example. As a result the 205 CTI project is a bit out of my league and I will need a lot of help. I bought that car as a way to teach myself.

You’re right about the brakes. Brake force divider would be a direct translation I guess. It determines the amount of pressure that should go to the rear brakes based on rear load, if I’m not mistaken. Not the most important part in a convertible, but it should be fixed regardless.

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 12/17/2015 at 09:57

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That is quite the list. Lots of fabrication-work there which takes quite a while!

If you can't find RV8 parts in the States I'd recommend RimmerBros. Reasonably priced, and do a lot of sales :)

MontegoMan562 is a Capri RS Owner > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 09:58

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Wow, though you have to understand why they seldom believe you!

You’re like the one guy that posts on Doug Demuro’s posts saying that his Range Rover is craaaazy reliable.

The Milan only has a list because it’s over 100k miles and needs some standard maintenance. It’s been shockingly solid. Only maintenance items except for 1 seized brake caliper that I replaced. Pretty awesome giving I’ve put 55k miles on it.

ADabOfOppo; Gone Plaid (Instructables Can Be Confusable) > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 10:02

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A bit, perhaps. Also, I don’t really have much info to share other than what I decided on getting. Once I have more concrete info (preferably my next car) I will make an announcement about it.

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > duurtlang 12/17/2015 at 10:03

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Yeah you don’t want to be locking up the rears on a car that’s already a bit famed for being tail-happy...

Great way to learn though, and congrats on the oil change! I think next step on the chain is changing brake pads which is a little more challenging but a good stepping stone.

Have you got anyone who can teach you or are you striking out on your own?

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 10:05

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The place I’ll probably go for a lot of parts is an outfit called The Wedge Shop. Specializes in TR8s and TR7s with an RV8 swap (aka, TR8s). They’ve got good rates on cams, stud kits, gasket kits, pistons, bearings, etc. etc. What they won’t have is conrods the right length and end sizes to put 4.0 pistons in a 4.2, for which I’ll defer to Summit Racing Equipment for specialized offset-grind Chevy ones - which happen to be available the right size.

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 12/17/2015 at 10:07

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Ah I’ve heard of them. Lots of people on my Triumph forum have gone to them for specialist bits.

Nice find on the conrods, although are you sure you’ll need new ones? I just had mine balanced and put back in! Could probably have done that myself too!

duurtlang > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 10:14

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I’ve joined a wrenching club. When I’ve got time in January I think I’ll post a little letter asking for help. Lots of space and multiple lifts help though. I’m storing my CTI there, so if it’s undrivable during a multiple day job it’s not a problem.

We changed brake pads plus discs (front) on the Galant last Monday. The guy that helped me insisted on doing most of it himself, sadly.

Pixel > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 10:14

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Yeah, the Scion is the DD. The truck can be used as backup transportation right up until snow starts falling. I guess this means I should get off my ass and fix the Scion soon...

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 10:20

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Here’s the trouble: The RV8 I’ve got has 140k miles on it. There is consequently not even the slightest ghost of a chance I’ll be using my original pistons. Further, nobody is mad enough to make a performance piston or rods for the 4.2, as it is the least common crank of all RV8 ones that exist. The 4.2 was meant to be used with a unique rod and piston shared with no others, and is intermediate in deck height and rod length between the 3.5/3.9 and the 4.0/4.6, and meant to use a piston with offset like the 4.0/4.6. If I throw in performance 4.0 pistons, I’m left in between the rod lengths for 4.0 and 4.6, and with a difference in (smaller) crank journal size from either. However, due to Chevy pistons using a wristpin only 7 thousandths smaller a 4.0/4.6, and being available in a smaller journal size (the correct one) for offset crank grinds, and being available in a variety of lengths, the situation solves itself. Hypereutectic performance 4.0 pistons (punching up the compression ratio slightly), forged Chevy rods with a 7 thou bore-out, and done. As long as the Buick 300/etc. rod facing widths are common with the Chevy, which I think they are.

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > MontegoMan562 is a Capri RS Owner 12/17/2015 at 10:21

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Yep that’s me :) and the guy that tells people that injected Maserati Biturbos can be just as reliable as normal cars ;)

I love cars that surprise you with their solidity. The Citroen I bought for £256 had been off the road for four years, probably sitting in the guy’s back yard.

Welded up some holes in the sills, drove it straight to the MOT station and it passed first time :) drove fine for a year until bang on 180k miles the water pump failed, but that's a replacement interval so I'm describing that as 'prompt' rather than unreliable...

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 12/17/2015 at 10:23

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Very nice :) must remember that one. Useful tidbit of info :)

MontegoMan562 is a Capri RS Owner > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 10:26

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Hahahaha

Hysterical about “prompt”

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > duurtlang 12/17/2015 at 10:26

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Aw that’s a shame. Need to find someone who will show you how to do it rather than do it themselves.

Have you got a Haynes manual or something of the sort for it? A workshop manual aimed at the amateur...

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 10:27

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I chiefly need to get ahold of a scrap SBC connecting rod to confirm the theory first (rod width), but I believe it’s a solid solution. I should be set as long as my 4.2 crank doesn’t snap, which purportedly some do...

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 12/17/2015 at 10:35

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Well, if it does then it’ll be a good excuse to try and source some TVR 5.0l bits ;)

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 10:37

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If it snapped, I’d be out a set of rods, but if the pistons weren’t damaged, they’d be set for the next round of fun. The Buick 300 crank can be had new, I think, out of steel and not forged nodular, but that would be hideously expensive.

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 12/17/2015 at 10:42

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Hmmm, what’s the plan with head work? Are you leaving it stock, sending it somewhere or having a go yourself?

I found a damn good thread a couple of days ago about making a home-made flowbench for £24, which I will definitely be doing as soon as we’ve got a garage to put it in :)

http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php…

Sovereign, Purveyor of Coupes > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 10:48

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Rubber gloves anger me, my fingers are usually too long which makes them very uncomfortable, and I always seem to tear them rather quickly like you said.

Most people don’t care too much about the clean engine, which doesn’t bother me as I’m mostly doing it for myself.

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires 12/17/2015 at 10:52

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I’ve got porting diagrams (as have you!) in the Hammill book, so I figure I’ll have at it myself. I’ve got access to a high-precision air pressure device at work, actually -will measure down to a few hundredths of an inch pressure difference, which is much finer than a homemade manometer.

BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht 12/17/2015 at 10:54

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So I do!

Very nice :) definitely worth a go with the machine at work. Would be interesting to do some comparisons...