![]() 11/07/2015 at 17:58 • Filed to: None | ![]() | ![]() |
Wackos used as a term of endearment of course. I need all that you can tell me about the pre-facelift Disco Series IIs. Anything that you can offer up is helpful. Things like reliability (lol) and ease of being able to fix things. I already know that they’re pretty good 4x4s as it is.
LR Series IIa in reward for help.
![]() 11/07/2015 at 18:10 |
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Well I would swap an Isuzu diesel into it with a kit from the UK. I want a classic Range Rover 2 door with such a motor.
![]() 11/07/2015 at 18:42 |
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Not sure if anyone on Oppo has a pre-FL D2..? Thebloody and R Saldana have the FL so they would be worth asking about bodywork and chassis etc. You may have to tell me, did you ever get the diesel motor over the pond, or just the 4.0 V8?
Overall they’re perfectly capable cars, and with over engineered axles and drivetrain the AWD system is sure to last as long as it’s been maintained. They are known for rot (á la most things Land Rover) which I will assume is chassis related as examples in poor condition go for £200-400 over here. Electrics become shoddy with age, especially if the car has an immobiliser.
![]() 11/07/2015 at 18:54 |
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I believe we got just the gas (petrol) engines in the US. The one I’ve found seems to be in relatively good nick rust wise but there are some lights on according to the ad. Hill assist, traction control, and ABS lights are on it says. Not sure if these were equipped with Air suspension or not but ad says nothing about that so not too sure there. Looks to be in good shape over all though.
Link to ad: http://syracuse.craigslist.org/cto/5280063214…
![]() 11/07/2015 at 18:56 |
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Chassis rot and Air suspension are the most usual problems. Not sure if they sold any of the conventionally sprung ones in the states.
![]() 11/07/2015 at 19:16 |
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Yeh it looks in good order actually, and the interior is OK, but you really need to see underneath it and get to the chassis. It may be worth asking the seller if he can take a picture or two for you. Admittedly his ad puts me off a bit, no specifics apart from brakes and those ‘simple fix’ warning lights.
![]() 11/07/2015 at 19:20 |
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I thought that may be the case. It shares a motor and partial electronics system with the P38 too, if it’s the same air suspension then it’s a dodgy combination! At least we have the diesel coil sprung versions over here :)
![]() 11/07/2015 at 19:25 |
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Yeah, that part is kind of not too informative as much as I’d like it to be. I’d have to clear it with my parents first before I started any sort of movements towards buying anyway. That and finding a job that can allow me to sustain Land Rover ownership lol. Guess we will see what happens.
![]() 11/07/2015 at 19:28 |
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If it’s close enough just go and take a look at it anyway, learn about them and spend some time under it if the seller allows it. At least you’re better informed when/if it comes to getting one!
And yes, a US Discovery needs a bank account that carries a healthy balance just in case :)
I would ask Thebloody and R Saldana for a bit more info if you’re genuinely interested.
![]() 11/07/2015 at 19:37 |
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I should try to get to see it if I have any free time, it’s about 45 minutes to an hour away from me so it’s not too far away but DLST ending makes time a pinch after school hours.
Hopefully one of the other two can see this post at sometime and offer up some extra info. Thanks for the info you’ve been able to give, much appreciated!
![]() 11/07/2015 at 21:55 |
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The one you linked to 4muddyfeet is a Kalahari Special Edition my friend! Different interior and wheels as well as some useful adventurey bits.
D2’s only ever came with rear air suspension on some higher trim levels, referred to SLS or self leveling suspension. It’s very easy and cheap to convert to coils, but I don’t believe this one should have it.
The warning lights on the that are apparently on are commonly referred to as the three amigos. If a CEL does not accompany them there is a good chance it needs what’s called the shuttle valve switch. Some people will try to tell you it needs a while ABS modulator/hydraulic unit but that isn’t true. There’s a modification to do to the wiring when replacing the shuttle valve switch. It’s really quite easy, even if your wiring skills are barely there. The switch is pretty cheap too if I remember right. If the CEL does accompany the three amigos it will likely need one of the front wheel speed sensors. The trickiest thing about that is the new ones come with about 10ft of wire that you are supposed to run all the way to the ABS computer because the wiring between it and the sensors can go to shit. Really not that tough either.
Steering and suspension are solid. I’ve replaced a handful of ball joints on higher mileage ones. Diffs sometimes wear out also, usually bearings specifically, and make a lot of noise. But really not that common and frequent oil changes on them should help prevent that. Transfer cases sometimes leak a bit or have some bearing wear, but very rarely does that require any work to be done as they might just clunk every now and then without doing any further damage. Transmissions usually are very good, unless it shifts like cheap when you drive it or the fluid smells burnt I wouldn’t worry about it except to maybe service it.
Front driveshafts are weak. Check periodically to make sure the u-joints aren’t worn out. They can grenade and do serious damage to surrounding components, though they usually give you plenty of warning before that happens. The joints are not easy to replace unfortunately and it is neat to send them out to be rebuilt or just buy a new unit. There are some excellent aftermarket upgrades available here, such as from Tom Woods.
Sunroofs leak. New glass seals are available and take two minutes to install. If the leak continues you will need to reseal the sunroof frame to the vehicle roof which requires removing the headliner. But some closed-cell foam tape and/or RTV work great for this. It’s easy too, just time consuming, probably a full weekend for your first one.
And finally, the biggest fear for disco owners, head gasket and or engine failure. Head gaskets are basically a maintenance item needing to be done anywhere from every 75k to every 150k. They usually leak oil first and then coolant. The engine blocks sometimes crack or drop cylinder liners, necessitating replacement. There is no rhyme or reason to when this happens sometimes, but it is common if the engine had been overheated. There is a heater plate on the bottom of the throttle body that leaks coolant and has caused an untold number of engine failures, check it every time you open the hood. The throttle heater is very cheap and very easy to replace, or bypass if you’re feeling... frisky(?).
My suggestion is to look it over very thoroughly for leaks, head gaskets especially, and do a block test just to make sure the owner isn’t trying to sell you a truck with a [borderline] junk engine. Also make sure the air injection pump (sounds like a vacuum cleaner, black plastic thing in right rear corner of engine bay), work on cold start up. Don’t forget the door locks and other electrics though.
In my opinion, assuming the engine is good and electrics all work, that’s an excellent price, especially for a Kalahari. Let me know if you have any questions, I should be able to answer them. Made my paychecks on Rovers for a few years, know them almost as well as AMG’s! Oh and sorry for writing a book here, hope it helps.
![]() 11/07/2015 at 23:17 |
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If this ain’t real time sensitive, I will chime back in on Monday.
![]() 11/07/2015 at 23:39 |
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Time sensitive it is not. :)
![]() 11/08/2015 at 00:00 |
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I tell you this. If you buy that one I will buy the roof rack off it from you.....
![]() 11/08/2015 at 00:05 |
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Maybe.
![]() 11/08/2015 at 21:43 |
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This is a very good summary on what to look for. I’d make sure the heads and block are in okay shape, because at this price I’m a little weary of them. If it is a basket case, walk away or be ready to sink a lot of cash into it as these trucks can get expensive quickly.
It is a Kalahari edition so IIRC it has the diff lock lever standard so no wrachet mod required. I’ve seen this ad already funnily enough lol. How ever that being said if you do get this and fix it up you’ll have anice rare-ish Disco. In terms of reparability, there is a lot of space in the engine bay so working on the truck doesn’t require you to be a contortionist.
![]() 11/09/2015 at 11:38 |
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This is tremendously useful.
I wish I had been on Oppo between ‘08-’10 but my op-tempo and deployments kept me from learning to do the heavy work on my Disco. I snapped a front driveshaft with my first year of ownership because I was being a complete idiot and trying to pull a stuck H2 hummer. This caused me to need to replace the transmission as well. My main issues today are a few electrical gremlins and much of exterior trim and weather-stripping need to be replaced and issues with O2 sensors (my own fault) and P0440.
Also, my rear airbags didn’t go out until 2013 when moving my stuff to storage before moving to Nashville. Converted to coils for $100 and an afternoon.
This year you know I have done my steering rods (HD) and 3” TerraFirma lift (not made in China :D). I still have a rear driveshaft to put on searching for a bumper and roof rack. And the 6 spoke 18” wheels for new General Grabber AT2’s at some point next year.
Compared my rig to Fj80 Cruisers multiple times and while they are infinitely more reliable, they were slower heavier, and surprisingly slightly thirstier.
![]() 11/09/2015 at 11:40 |
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But seriously, if you buy this I will have cash in hand and my happy ass driving over to disassemble the roof rack before your first CEL comes on in the Disco.
![]() 11/09/2015 at 14:20 |
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If I were to get it, and this is a pretty big if to be honest, I’d entertain the offer. I really like the rack and the way it looks on the truck. Though I’d more than likely need the extra money that’d come with selling it and you’ve probably got more use for the rack as much as I’d like to think that I’d use it. Guess that only time will tell.
![]() 11/09/2015 at 15:14 |
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Indeed, please keep me informed I would love to at least get an offer in at first bell.
![]() 11/09/2015 at 15:51 |
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Thanks.
For some illogical reason I really like these stupid trucks and live it when people take care of them and use them like you do with yours. Just remembered you were wanting to chat outside of oppo, mtabbert eighty six (but numerical) at the mail of the google.
![]() 11/09/2015 at 16:17 |
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Thanks back to you sir. Email sent to get acquainted.
![]() 11/09/2015 at 16:22 |
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And replied. Also just turned my little novel up above into a buyer’s guide.
![]() 11/30/2015 at 00:36 |
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I’m no Disco expert, my LR poison was Range Rover shaped. However I do remember that some D2’s had no centre diff lock. If you are going to take it off road, that’s maybe something you want to consider.
I genuinely believe that a Land Rover is not a bad first truck, as you WILL learn how to fix things (or you will just sell it very early on). There is plenty of information out there, the trucks are pretty simple to work on, and the online support community is good.
![]() 11/30/2015 at 00:47 |
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http://www.exploringoverland.com/overland-tech-…