Eww...  Golf Cart Update

"Brickman" (legomaniacman) 10/21/2015 at 14:01 • Filed to: None

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Tried bypassing the golf cart system to run the motor off the batterys like I looked up and still didn’t work. So I removed the motor and about a half a cup of black powder came out. Also more when i opened it up. I don’t think new brushes will help out this thing. :/

No way the brushes would of made this much dust. Look at the chunks of build up.

IDK what this blob is.

BJ > Brickman 10/21/2015 at 14:10

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You’ve got a can of PB Blaster there on the bench - soak the motor and put it back together. 50/50 it runs afterwards.

PotbellyJoe and 42 others > Brickman 10/21/2015 at 14:13

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You lost a half of a cup of magnets.

Moves-Like-Senna > Brickman 10/21/2015 at 14:14

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Touch the blob

Brickman > Moves-Like-Senna 10/21/2015 at 14:35

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Says it will eat me and my family :0

tromoly > Brickman 10/21/2015 at 14:36

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The blob is for balancing the armature, don’t remove it.

Brickman > BJ 10/21/2015 at 14:36

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Will try :)

MonkeePuzzle > tromoly 10/21/2015 at 14:44

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^ my guess would be on it being there for balancing purposes also

Moves-Like-Senna > Brickman 10/21/2015 at 14:47

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Lick it then, I heard that kills it. Always take random advice from the internet hahaha

Brickman > tromoly 10/21/2015 at 14:59

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That would make sense. Thought something melted on it.

Snuze: Needs another Swede > Brickman 10/21/2015 at 15:00

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I’m not sure if Kinja will bork this or not...

Back when I was on the submarine, we had MG sets we had to clean every month and they were always filthy. Once, due to operational commitments, we didn’t do them for 2 months. They looked this bad or worse inside. Took our whole division an entire day to clean them, but they pretty much worked fine after that.

My advice is, first ,wear rubber gloves and a mask, then get a bunch of rags and wipe down everything you can first. Then used brake cleaner, PB Blaster, etc. Then go back through and clean everything off with denatured alcohol. The thing I clicked in the picture, all the little metal segments, that’s the commutator. Don’t touch it with your bare hands. The oils on your skin will react with the copper and cause some kind of oxide film to develop. It hampers conduction and is hard on the brushes. So make sure you clean it real good with the alcohol and then be careful not to touch it with your bare hands as you reassemble.

Brickman > Snuze: Needs another Swede 10/21/2015 at 15:18

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I wore rubber gloves while taking it apart. Trying to get the amature off the rear case so I can get to what’s left of the brushes.

Snuze: Needs another Swede > Brickman 10/21/2015 at 15:42

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Good job. Motors are actually rather simple and robust. There’s really only 2 major things that can go wrong besides the normal wear items like brushes. Bearings can fail, but they can and will in virtually any rotating machinery. And the insulation on the windings can break down, leading to internal shorts and damage. That’s really about it. So take your time, and good luck.

Brickman > Snuze: Needs another Swede 10/21/2015 at 15:50

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I took the brushes out and 2 are completely disentregrated and the other two are about a centimeter thick. Might just need new brushes and a good cleaning. The communicator is fine, just a small amount of wear. Will see if they want to spend the money. $80 is cheaper than $500 for a new motor.

Snuze: Needs another Swede > Brickman 10/21/2015 at 16:12

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Run your hand (with glove on, or a thin cloth or something) over the commutator and see if it feels even. If not, it may need to be stoned... basically ground down to a smooth, even surface. A local motor shop should be able to do it for you relatively cheaply, I’d imagine.