"carwitter" (carwitter)
09/28/2014 at 09:19 • Filed to: peugeot, 106, gti
3
6|
"carwitter" (carwitter)
09/28/2014 at 09:19 • Filed to: peugeot, 106, gti | 3
| 6 |
!!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! for the first time was a dream, effortless pace, smooth revs and...a lumpy idle at traffic lights!
!!! UNKNOWN CONTENT TYPE !!!
The 106 starts fine, warms up for 2 minutes then the revs drop ever so slightly from about 950 to 800, the car starts a deep vibrating for a few seconds before returning to normal. It gets worse and does it more frequently but it never cuts out.
Blip the throttle and everything returns to normal. The problem is only evident on idle once the engine starts warming up.
Researching this issue on both the 106 Owners Club and Saxperience forums it looks as though the most obvious fault lies with the coolant temperature sensor. A little green stick of brass that screws into the engine just next to the airbox.
Time to get the spanners out...
Well replacing this sensor with a new one and the problem seemed fixed, hoorah!
15 minutes later and the vibration was back...back to the drawing board there!
It can't be the sparks as they were changed around 4 months ago, oil is good, coolant is good.
Next idea, try cleaning out the throttle body and idle control valve. Time to disassemble.
Spraying almost a quarter of a can of carb cleaner in and around the throttle body and ICV i reassemble, turning the key i have to coax it into life with a few revs. But it appears to be sitting at a constant idle, leaving it to heat up it still stays on a sweet normal tickover.
After removing the coolant sensor 90% of the coolant had left the engine after switching it on, so before any damage occurs i shut it off...time to buy some coolant.
Bottom radiator hose off letting the system drain, there must have only been around 2 litres of coolant left in the engine. No wonder the temperature was shooting up so fast!
The 106 takes around 4 litres of coolant, so filling the header tank up to max i switch the engine on and start letting it circulate through. Within seconds the tank is empty, and after a further four top ups it finally stays level.
Bleeding the system wasn't too tricky once i had enough coolant in the engine. With all the air out, the heater was blowing hot and the temperature started dropping. Perfect!
Not quite...the lumpy idle was back...grr!
So now i have no idea what it is. The next logical step is to replace the stepper motor, then it could be an issue with the injectors or the MAP sensor...who knows!
The Next Stage
Attempt to fix:
The remote central locking
Replace original parcel shelf
Clean boot plastics
Replace rusty battery & ECU tray
Luc - The Acadian Oppo
> carwitter
09/28/2014 at 09:37 |
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Is Peugeot and Mazda affiliated? I'm having related issues that I cannot seem to solve and same as you I changed the Coolant temp sensor and cleaned out the idle control valve.
http://oppositelock.jalopnik.com/project-free-m…
it has been mentioned to me a few times that a vacuum leak could cause all sorts of idle issues so you may want to check that out.
When I talked to a mechanic about the issue right away he told me to change the idle air control valve as they do go bad for no reason.
I plan on changing mine I'm just trying to find one in a scrapyard rather than spending big bucks on a new one.
Good luck with it I know how annoying it can be.
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carwitter
> Luc - The Acadian Oppo
09/28/2014 at 09:42 |
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Haha im not aware of any link with Mazda!
Have you changed sparks/injectors yet?
It only seems to happen when it heats up which points it to being the Lambda sensor, but i need to get it plugged into a diag machine to test this.
Im stopping trying to self diagnose now...if you keep on doing that you can spend hundreds quite easily!
Ben
> carwitter
03/05/2015 at 09:02 |
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Did you sort out the idle problem?
Gerry
> carwitter
05/08/2017 at 18:03 |
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Did you ever solve the problem?
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carwitter
> Gerry
05/26/2017 at 12:48 |
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Hey Gerry, seemed to have solved itself! Cleaned the carb out and it’s idling far better now. Still stutters and dips a little bit now and then but nowhere near as bad as it did. Also used some Redex fuel cleaner through it.
It was as if it was going to stall the whole time.
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Gerry
> carwitter
08/31/2017 at 16:16 |
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Hi mate I have the same problem but mine cuts out nearly every time I come to lights Now I’m driving around with the idle control unplugged and it don’t cut out but idles high