A question

"norskracer98-ExploringTheOutback" (norskracer98) 08/27/2014 at 20:58 • Filed to: None

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For the classic car owners. What do you guys use for oil? Do you use full synthetic or some sort of blend.

My citroen won't start > norskracer98-ExploringTheOutback 08/27/2014 at 21:00

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1/4 Marmelade, 2/4 Gin, 1/4 Tonic, 1/4 Cranberry Jam.

Dubblewhopper > norskracer98-ExploringTheOutback 08/27/2014 at 21:01

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I use Mobil 1 Synthetic 15/30 on my '77 Z

PetarVN, GLI Guy, now with stupid power > My citroen won't start 08/27/2014 at 21:02

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ok, so we have some Cuban oppos! :P

norskracer98-ExploringTheOutback > My citroen won't start 08/27/2014 at 21:02

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But that's 5/4's

PetarVN, GLI Guy, now with stupid power > norskracer98-ExploringTheOutback 08/27/2014 at 21:02

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Wait, you're looking at classics now? WAT???

My citroen won't start > norskracer98-ExploringTheOutback 08/27/2014 at 21:03

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Oops, It was supposed to be 1/4 Gin.

McMike > norskracer98-ExploringTheOutback 08/27/2014 at 21:04

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Straight dino. If it was good enough for the crankcase when new, there's no need to spend $5 a quart on oil.

Besides, with classics, I never get the full life out of synthetics. I change my oil once a year whether I hit the 3K milse or not.

norskracer98-ExploringTheOutback > PetarVN, GLI Guy, now with stupid power 08/27/2014 at 21:04

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Not really. A question popped in my head and I asked.

Pearson Hurst > norskracer98-ExploringTheOutback 08/27/2014 at 21:05

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I use Shell Rotella 15w40 due to the high zinc content and the flat tappets in my Scout. Honestly, if you're at all unsure of the condition of the seals, etc, you may wish to steer clear of the full synthetic. It does a great job of protecting all the moving bits and cleaning up the internals, but may dislodge crud plugging potential leaks. If you're planning on replacing all the seals anyway, then by all means, knock yourself out.

deekster_caddy > norskracer98-ExploringTheOutback 08/27/2014 at 21:06

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i use Valvoline VR1 racing oil because it has more zinc. If you don't have roller lifters you need a high zinc content. If you have a catalytic converter you need a low zinc content. Most synthetics don't have any zinc. Oils with a lot of zinc are not AP rated. I think Amsoil and RedLine have blends with zinc and other additives for older engines now but be careful what you use. Not enough zinc and you can flatten cam lobes.

I use the VR1 in my 73 Buick and 54 MG.

CAcoalminer > norskracer98-ExploringTheOutback 08/27/2014 at 21:06

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Most people I know use full synthetic. For instance, a close friend who owns an F40 swears by Redline.

crowmolly > norskracer98-ExploringTheOutback 08/27/2014 at 21:07

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10w30 Valvoline VR1 dino.

That and Rotella are the only "normal" oils you can run in a flat tappet engine. You can get specialty stuff like Brad Penn, etc but VR1 and Rotella are the most common.

You do NOT. And I repeat, FUCKING NOT, want to run any normal off the shelf oil that does not have the proper additive package.

crowmolly > deekster_caddy 08/27/2014 at 21:09

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Not exactly.

If you have flat tappet lifters you need the ZDDP. Rocker arm design doesn't matter.

deekster_caddy > crowmolly 08/27/2014 at 21:11

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oh shit I totally meant lifters. Thanks for the catch! Corrected!

aberson Bresident of the FullyAssed Committe > norskracer98-ExploringTheOutback 08/27/2014 at 21:19

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In my 76' alfa romeo spider i use Valvoline max life in W20-50

and in my 85' jaguar xj6 i use whatever my dad buys which is normally quakerstate W15-30

BigBlock440 > norskracer98-ExploringTheOutback 08/27/2014 at 21:28

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I use whatever conventional is on sale, probably shouldn't though. I used to use Rotella 15W-40, but that's because my engine was fairly worn and the heavier oil burned less. I have since swapped engines and used Pennzoil conventional, but I've only put about 150 miles on it since, seems to be working fine though.

tc_corty > deekster_caddy 08/27/2014 at 22:41

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but you're right about wiping cam lobes. Once we swapped to a high zinc oil the cams are coming fine, no scars at all not so much as a bruise. Old Windsors are known for chewing cam lobes.

deekster_caddy > McMike 08/27/2014 at 23:15

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off the shelf dino oil doesn't have enough zinc/zddp to protect a flat lifter/cam. You need an additive (zddp+ or the like) or a high zinc oil like VR1 or Rotella. Zinc is bad for the catalytic converter so it's not in most off the shelf oils anymore.

crowmolly > BigBlock440 08/28/2014 at 08:27

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You have a roller cam?

BigBlock440 > crowmolly 08/28/2014 at 08:48

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I haven't torn into the new one yet, it's a few model years newer, but I don't think so. The old one used a flat tappet, I'm assuming the current one does also. I don't drive it much so I didn't put too much thought into it. Like I said, I probably should use different stuff, but it's a used motorhome engine, that'll get rebuilt in a few years.

crowmolly > BigBlock440 08/28/2014 at 09:04

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Gotcha. If it's got low spring pressures you might be fine.

I wiped a few cams in the early 2000's due to ZDDP being pulled and not being mentioned anywhere. Now that the info is out there I just would hate to see you go down that same path.

BigBlock440 > crowmolly 08/28/2014 at 09:40

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Good to know I was at least using the right stuff with the rotella at least. Never had a problem with the cam in the old engine. That one went out in a blaze of glory when a rod decided it didn't want to stay put at 4K rpms. I don't think it's related to the ZDDP, so I didn't think there was any reason to change. I, unfortunately, have to make mistakes myself to learn sometimes. There really is no excuse for it now that the info is out there though.

NaturallyAspirated > crowmolly 08/28/2014 at 14:05

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Here's the AMC 360 from my '84 Jeep J-20. I picked the truck up for next to nothing since it "didn't run right." Number 2 cylinder had basically no lift left at all on the camshaft. I don't know why number 2 wore so much more than the other cylinders.

crowmolly > NaturallyAspirated 08/28/2014 at 14:34

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Good lord! That doesn't look right.

NaturallyAspirated > crowmolly 08/28/2014 at 14:56

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I should have added, I suspect the excessive wear was caused by low-ZDDP oil usage.

crowmolly > NaturallyAspirated 08/28/2014 at 15:00

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Yes, that looks exactly like the rocker and pushrod on my 383 when the cam shit the bed. On the dyno. During break-in.