Help Me Build The Perfect Mountain Bike

"Andrew P. Collins" (andrewpcollins) 08/10/2014 at 15:27 • Filed to: Bikelopnik, bicycles

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I'm in the market for a bicycle. Not to replace any of my motorized vehicles, don't worry, purely as a supplement. I'm looking for a fully rigid mountain bike that's on the small side, with not very many gears and some style. Peddlers of Oppo, help me out here.

My specs; I'm 6' and about 165 pounds.

I'm looking for a bike that's tough enough to do pretty rough trail riding in, but it doesn't have to do it fast (tried downhill, too scary). I want to go full rigid because I don't want the weight of a shock which will be largely unnecessary for the majority of the riding I'm going to end up doing in real life (rail trails with an ice coffee in one hand).

I want a frame that's small because I'm never going to ride long distance or competitively but I like to be able to throw the thing around when I do hit the dirt. Was also thinking single speed crankset and nine-speed cassette for one less set of wires (can bikes even be set up that way?)

FWIW, I did mountain bike quite a bit as a youngster and did race, so I know what terrain feels like. And I am mechanically inclined enough to put a bike together, the question is whether I'm motivated enough to order parts separately.

I'm not brand loyal but it does matter to me that it looks cool, so I'm looking for suggestions and answers to these questions:

Brands I should avoid?

Components I should splurge on?

What kind of money buys what quality?

...Anything I might be forgetting?

dogisbadob > Andrew P. Collins 08/10/2014 at 15:31

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What ever you can get cheap is the good choice!

Bandit > Andrew P. Collins 08/10/2014 at 15:35

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I bought a Trek 4300 a few years ago and it has done sufficient on the trails I've ridden (indiana foresty bits). I like it.

Andrew P. Collins > Bandit 08/10/2014 at 15:36

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I'll look into that one. Anything you don't like about it?

Andrew P. Collins > dogisbadob 08/10/2014 at 15:37

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Haha, yeah I don't necessarily disagree.

Bandit > Andrew P. Collins 08/10/2014 at 15:45

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Well, I ride the bike both on and off road. The lockable fork and broad range of gearing is quite nice and allows for adapting to both situations. But after a 60 mile on road ride the seat was starting to destroy my ass. I didn't splurge and get the disk brakes but I haven't really been in a situation where I would need them. The bike has held up quite well to four years of constant abuse.

PedalHead > Andrew P. Collins 08/10/2014 at 15:48

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I'm a huge Craigslist fan. I scour for all kinds of bikes that people buy thinking they're going to get into riding and then a few years later they finally acknowledge they aren't. I have been shopping for a road bike for a co-worker and have found some 40%+ discount off of MSRP for 1-3 year old bikes. I always recommend buying a used high end bike rather than a new low-end bike. The old high end components should be god for a long time if they're in decent shape. Low end stuff is amazing for all of the corners they manage to cut. I made the mistake of buying my wife a low-end ($400) bike for commuting, the wheels were constantly going out of true and blowing spokes, the fasteners are all rusting after not too much time in the rain, and with maybe 1,200 miles on it I already have to replace the headset bearings.

If you want to build something yourself, go for it, building bikes is fun; but it may well cost you more to build than buying someone else's mistake.

As for building a 1x9 drivetrain, sure, no problem. I think it is probably a good move anyway, I've always had more problems with front derailleurs getting clogged/frozen than rears for some reason.

Parts that make a big difference in my opinion are wheels, shifters, and brakes (since you said you're going rigid, or else I think a good fork makes a big difference). Wheels don't have to cost a fortune, I have some of the Vuelta wheels ($80!-$300/pair) from Nashbar and they have been surprisingly robust. Also the Neuvation wheels look promising, but I haven't tried them personally.

I'm mostly a roadie so I don't have the best grasp of MTB pricing but I'd venture to guess that you can do pretty well with $400-$700, much like the road world.

I don't know where you are located but if you are in the DC-NYC area, the Lehigh Valley Velodrome has big swap meets every fall and spring and they are good fun and you can find all kinds of bike stuff, from 3-sp Sturmey Archer hubs to track bikes to downhill bikes. I like to take the kids and make a day of it.

Bandit > Andrew P. Collins 08/10/2014 at 15:50

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Oh and compared to the bikes you can get at Walmart and such, this is aluminum and crazy light. It's also easy to dissemble and store. I've fit the entire bike in the back seats of my Trans Am

ChrisCicc > Andrew P. Collins 08/10/2014 at 15:50

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I have a Trek 6 Series. Love it, but greatly regret not getting rear suspension.

My next bike will be a Motoped.

Denver Is Stuck In The 90s > Andrew P. Collins 08/10/2014 at 15:53

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I recommend anything by fuji

C4RT1ER > Andrew P. Collins 08/10/2014 at 16:03

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Kona Unit!

Andrew P. Collins > C4RT1ER 08/10/2014 at 16:05

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I was just looking at that, it's my #1 choice right now.

Uak42 > Andrew P. Collins 08/10/2014 at 16:08

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Andrew this is a great subject for a post, but you should (imho) edit the post to include advice for 3 levels of budget, like $1500, $4000 and unlimited, just to get more diversified answers.

Definitively watching the comments on this article for good advice!

C4RT1ER > Andrew P. Collins 08/10/2014 at 16:11

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Gives you the option to run single speed or a derailleur. I picked up an older Kona 26" with the OX platinum tube set for a ridiculous price on craigslist (Boulder CO) and I love it. I have four bicycles in my stable and the Unit gets ridden quite a bit.

my car smells like crayons > Andrew P. Collins 08/10/2014 at 16:16

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I'm riding a Marin XM right now... I'm a bit on the eccentric side, so it fits my personality :-P

My next one will be a hard-tail 29er.

Stay away from anything that is "trick". I lusted for the single-sided Cannondales for a while, until a good friend warned me that the uniqueness of the shock resulted in having to send the unit back to Cannondale in Colorado to service/rebuild (a lot of local bike shops won't even touch it).

If you're feeling brave, you can get a great new bargain from Airborne . Bonus: some assembly required!

davedave1111 > Andrew P. Collins 08/10/2014 at 16:53

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If you can be bothered to build something up yourself, there are any number of cheap older frames on Ebay and similar. Some are real classics, others are just good ten or fifteen year old frames for a small fraction of the new cost.

It's hard to go wrong with a cheap GT triple triangle frame in the right size, if it's just for a bit of a hack. They're mostly fairly light, fairly well balanced, strong enough to take abuse, and cheap enough not to be too annoying when they get stolen. At least over here, they're very common, too.

Buy some nice light wheels and tyres for it - without going mad - and the rest should be pretty much budget-end components, because you get into diminishing-returns territory very quickly with stuff like drivetrain components.

bobarcangle > Andrew P. Collins 08/10/2014 at 17:04

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You can option a Specialized Hardrock very well for under $600. In any case, go to a good bicycle shop and ask questions. Most bike shops will be happy to help.

Sean > Andrew P. Collins 08/10/2014 at 17:26

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Most modern Forks have lock out and not that heavy. Enless your getting a carbon bike(alot of money) Get a bike with a fork with lockout. Totaly worth the money

promoted by the color red > Andrew P. Collins 08/10/2014 at 17:48

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Top-grade stuff is useless without proper tuning. Either do it yourself or find a good mechanic.

saabstory | fixes bikes, breaks cars > Andrew P. Collins 08/10/2014 at 18:31

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This is what my dad has. It's called a Salsa Fargo 3. It's absolutely fantastic. He has used it for commuting for the last few years (on the slickest tires available), rejecting the Specialized and Bianchi he tried on the road. He also uses it on trails and even rough mountain-y stuff over his actual Trek mountain bike. It's seriously amazing. He's the same height and a little heavier. The bike is pretty light, but it's got big wheels (29"), but that's better because you don't scrape the gearbox on roots and rocks IMO. It is a great bike, but it's not the best choice if you decide to do really hardcore stuff, but it performs great on rough trails. I think this year's are yellow. Oh, and if you really want to splurge, get the titanium one. That thing is pornographic, and it is the bike used by Jay Petervay to set the Tour Divide record, and 10% of the field were on Fargos in 2013. I'd recommend the 3 over the 2 because it has a steel fork rather than a carbon fiber fork. CF forks are light and everything, but are prone to explosive failure, and oftentimes give no warning. Plus, one chip and you have to replace it.

http://salsacycles.com/bikes/2014_far…

Andrew P. Collins > C4RT1ER 08/10/2014 at 19:38

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Sweet. I don't want a single-speed, but I think single front crankset would be perfect.

Itsmemupos > Andrew P. Collins 08/10/2014 at 19:56

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I would go for a used Niner EMD. Nice solid bike, good geometry, really dependable. I would definately splurge on wheels, and drivetrain components. Good wheels make a huge difference and a solid drivetrain (at least Shimano SLX or Sram X-7) will prevent a lot of headaches. You definately want an air fork, and can get decent ones fairly inexpensively.

You can probably get a used 29er with upgraded wheels that is nice for around $750 to 900 depending on the fork and wheels. You could get new Motobecane (off brand but you get great componets for the pricing) with a nice set up for around $1000.

Daisy Needs a New Turbo > Andrew P. Collins 08/10/2014 at 19:59

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Lightweight, strong, cheap: pick two. That's the mantra I've always abided by with bikes.

Seriously, this is complicated. It sounds like you want a good hard tail with either a suspension or rigid fork. The first question is what size wheel? The original MTB wheel size was 26", and then 29" came out. The benefits of 29" was that it rolled over obstacles better, had more rotational inertia, provide more "suspension", and allowed for a frame geometry that put the bottom bracket below the axles, allowing for a more stable ride. The drawbacks were that it was heavier, it wasn't great for smaller riders (it's harder to design a small frame with 29" wheels), and they weren't exactly nimble for more technical riding. So now, bike manufacturers are splitting the difference and using 27.5" wheels, which maximize the benefits for both and minimize the drawbacks (supposedly).

If you are looking for a new frame, you might want to check out the 27.5", but if you are looking at used, a 26" might be better (and cheaper). Lots of people are dumping their 26" frames for the newest and shiniest trend (27.5"), so 26" frames can be had cheap. Plus, if you're looking at smaller sizes, there'll be more choices at 26". I think the key is to go ride all three sizes, and see which ones you like.

Also, not to make things more complicated, but you may want to consider a cyclocross frame. Those are typically 700c (same as road), but are a bit heavier and tougher, with canti or disc brakes and clearance for fatter tires so you can do some off-road with it. Even a touring frame might be considered.

The next question is frame materials. The cheapest and lightest tend to be aluminum frames, which are lightweight, cheap, corrosion-resistant, and very stiff (transmits energy from the rider to forward movement very efficiently). However, if you dent it, it's very difficult to repair, it can fail catastrophically (although that is rare nowadays), and is very stiff (meaning that even though it is efficient, it also transmits road imperfections very efficiently as well, so it can be very uncomfortable). Then you have my favorite, steel. Good steel frames are light (although not as light as aluminum), repairable, and have a distinctive "feel" (it absorbs vibrations better) which I am a fan of. Drawbacks are that they do rust if you don't care for them properly, they are a bit heavier, and are not as stiff or "efficient" as aluminum. Carbon is the next material, and it is the lightest and stiffest materials (depending on how the frame is constructed), and has the most vibration absorption . But it is very expensive, it can fail catastrophically, and can feel almost "dead", meaning that they do absorb vibrations, but you get little "feedback".

Again, my preference is steel, and there are many smaller manufacturers that make good steel hard tail frames. And because of the fatigue resistance and repairability of steel, buying a used steel frame is a bit safer than buying used aluminum or carbon. Soma and Surly are on the lower end of the price scale, but make phenomenal frames. Salsa is a bit higher end, but make amazing steel frames as well. Plus, they are all "classic" and are definitely cool. If you are looking for used, these frames would be great, along with classic Ibis (before they went all carbon), Bontrager, or maybe some classic steel Trek or Kona.

As for components, if you want to splurge on anything, splurge on wheels. Saving rotational weight is worth the cost. Other components are all pretty competent. Shimano or Sram midrange stuff just work, and are plenty light enough. I wouldn't go anything above SLX or even Deore. They work as well as XT or XTR, with the only difference being a few ounces in weight (and price). Also, do some research on tires. The right tires for the conditions around where you ride can make a huge difference.

George Costanza > Andrew P. Collins 08/10/2014 at 20:08

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Just gonna leave this here. I don't even have a car.

Daisy Needs a New Turbo > Daisy Needs a New Turbo 08/10/2014 at 20:09

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Check this out for a 650B frame (27.5"). If it doesn't go over $250 or so, this is a great deal, and a great frame to build a killer $600-$700 hard tail.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Soma-B-Sid…

C4RT1ER > Andrew P. Collins 08/10/2014 at 20:33

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Pick up a narrow-wide front chainring like something from wolf tooth components www.wolftoothcycling.com , slap a rear derailleur on there, and you will have an epic ridged 1x10.

mad_adam > Andrew P. Collins 08/10/2014 at 20:55

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If you're looking for a rigid MTB, you can't do much better than the Surly Karate Monkey. Best part is that you can buy just the frame/fork and build it up exactly the way you want it.

HOWEVER!!!! If it were my money, I would spend it on a Surly Puglsey/Salsa Mukluk. I know the tires look ridiculous and that they would slow it down, and while the bike is a little on the heavy side, it is ridiculously fun. The oversized tires act as shock absorbers, and because of their width, much like an offroader, you can adjust the pressure to increase traction across various surfaces. While you may find some difficulty with the most technical of trails, you will find way more pleasure in the simple act of riding it over any surface, including snow, ice and wet rocks.

dameon8888 > Andrew P. Collins 08/11/2014 at 02:39

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Santa Cruz Blur. Probably the best all-mountain frame around, it is a full suspension, but you'd never regret buying it. $3,600 to get in the door.

Alternatively, a Cannondale with 29er rims and a Lefty fork is the most nimble cross country bike around. One of those has won the Great Divide race four times now. $2,100 will buy a very good setup.

dameon8888 > dameon8888 08/11/2014 at 02:58

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My initial reactions aside, every company makes a decent bike at the entry level.

The differences are really reflected at the top. As a rule of thumb, anything less than $1,000 and you'll get a decent frame and disk brakes (possibly even a lower-mid level rear derailleur), but a pretty sloppy factory fork and base level everything else.

It's worth spending between $1,000-$2,000 if you're want to walk out of the store with a complete ride.

You should definitely splurge on a decent shock, if nothing else. I'm talking at least $500. The rigidity, comfort and durability of a Fox or Rockshox offers a completely different experience.

If you're going to use it as a lite trail/commuter bike, don't worry about putting on anything above mid-level parts. As you spend more on these things you tend to trade weight for durability and your bike can become a money pit. I had a Shimano Deore derailleur in the front and an SLX in the rear, and the action was snappy on the trails but still strong after a year of Seattle commuting.

Don't get a smaller frame, you'll regret that decision. (seriously, DON'T) Current frame geometry is designed for ergonomics, so it won't be long before you're fussing with your seat post and jacking it up really high and your knees are hitting your wrists. Modern bikes are so light you'll be able to toss it around easily.

Also, I ride a Kona Kahuna. The company makes really durable frames, but they're comparatively quite heavy. It wouldn't be my first choice again, rather a close second to the Cannondale.

Jeff Juarez > Andrew P. Collins 08/11/2014 at 08:41

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Hmmmm. After reading this, I'm assuming you know very little about bikes in general.

First things first, what's your budget? that's going to tell you exactly what you can buy. and if you aren't happy with what it can buy new, go used. Checkout Pinkbike.

-You contradict yourself, saying you want to ride rough stuff, but you want a fully rigid bike. If you're riding rough stuff, you DO NOT want a fully rigid bike. Unless you're riding smooth single-track, or fire roads, a front shock on a mountain bike is paramount. And a rear shock does not significantly add weight, And the performance you get out of it will FAR outweigh any weight penalty you'd incur.

- DO NOT buy a frame that is "small" buy a frame that FITS. I can't emphasize how important this is to your overall happiness with the bike.

-DO NOT do a 1x9 setup. it doesn't sound like you're horribly bike-fit to begin with, if you do, you'll be hating yourself for not having enough gearing when you actually have to pedal up-hill. Or you'll be bored when you don't have enough gearing to go fast. Get 1x10 with an aftermarket larger cassette ring (blackmarket, wolf components, etc) or just stay with 2x10. 2x10 is excellent. If you have money to burn, get a 1x11 XO group.

So in summary.

SUSPENSION IS GOOD. BUY A BIKE THAT FITS YOU. USE PARTS IN THE WAY THEY"RE DESIGNED. HACKED PARTS LEADS TO HACK PERFORMANCE.

Btw... I design mountain bikes ;)

Andrew P. Collins > Jeff Juarez 08/11/2014 at 08:52

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Sounds like good advice... I'm gonna do some more research.

Your assumptions are correct, I don't know that much about different bike setups/how to build a good one. Hence querying the minds of Oppo! I just like riding.

functionoverfashion > Andrew P. Collins 08/11/2014 at 09:10

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Look no further. Found on New Hampshire CL - a Porsche mountain bike: http://nh.craigslist.org/bik/4612963439…

Jeff Juarez > Andrew P. Collins 08/11/2014 at 09:41

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I'd focus your efforts on Aluminum hardtails, there's some great options out there. That or XC-Marathon 100-120mm travel full suspension bikes. Most FS bikes lock out and climb nearly as well as their HT brothers, and as your skills progress, the bike will have more in it's bag when you're ready.

I'd recommend brands, but I work and have worked for several of what you'd consider the "big players", so I say just do your homework.

Since you're a bigger guy, I'd recommend looking at 29'er, 100-120mm travel front fork. Disk brakes for sure, I don't know why you'd want less on anything MTB. Look into SLX, they're AMAZING for the price-tag. Or spend a bit extra and go for XT's, you won't be disappointed.

Wheels are the place where you can spend the most money, but get the most benefit from, especially on a 29 rigg. less rotational mass, the better! Oh... and go tubeless ;)

Yowen - not necessarily not spaghetti and meatballs > Andrew P. Collins 08/11/2014 at 09:42

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I recently picked up a Motobecane Fantom 29er X4 from bikesdirect.com. Some people don't like going this way, but you can't deny the money you save vs some of the namebrands out there. I would've had to spend $300-$400 more at the local bike shop to get a comparable bike.

Jeff Juarez > Andrew P. Collins 08/11/2014 at 09:42

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I remember you also mentioned wanting a "smaller feel" to the bike. Maybe 27.5 (650b) could also be a good avenue vs. my 29 recommendation.

Andrew P. Collins > Jeff Juarez 08/11/2014 at 09:52

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Yeah, I had a 19" hardtail years ago (I was the same size, slightly skinnier) and I always felt like it was too big for me... why I was thinking 17/18.

Tohru > Andrew P. Collins 08/11/2014 at 18:24

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Psh, this is easy.

1. Open amazon.com
2. Look up best-selling men's mountain bike.
3. ???
4. PROFIT!

26" 18-speed Roadmaster Granite Peak mountain bike - $112.19 with free shipping.

BurnerAccount9007 > Tohru 08/11/2014 at 23:59

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FYI, there are major differences between cheap (ex. from Walmart—this bike happens to be sold there) and expensive bikes including weight, durability, compatibility with aftermarket parts, fit/finish, etc. This bike is literally the cheapest mountain bike you can get, I think.

Tohru > BurnerAccount9007 08/12/2014 at 00:11

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Nah, there were some on there for $70. My post wasn't supposed to be taken seriously.

BurnerAccount9007 > Tohru 08/12/2014 at 01:10

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TIL