Finally can get my hands dirty with the Lincoln!

"JR1" (type35bugatti)
07/25/2014 at 12:53 • Filed to: None

I got the Lincoln on the roll back and finally got it somewhere so I can get my hands dirty and tinker with my toy. Still worries the heck out of me the engine is seized. I might try to take it apart and play with it (even though I have never done it before. Is it even a good idea?). It is just unfortunate I will have to keep it as cheap as possible because of college and minimum wage and all that wonderful stuff. It is just a shame this car had to rot away. Hopefully it will be a good learning experience and I can get something out if it if the time comes and I have to sell it.

Sorry guys if I am over sharing I am just excited!

DISCUSSION (38)

TwinCharged - Is Now UK Opponaut > JR1
07/25/2014 at 12:55

MOAR. I WANT TO SEE MOARRRRRR.

I'm as green as the Lincoln right now with envy, it's such a gorgeous car...

Sn210 > JR1
07/25/2014 at 12:58

if anything, you're under-sharing

Brian, The Life of > JR1
07/25/2014 at 12:58

It begins.

Yowen - not necessarily not spaghetti and meatballs > JR1
07/25/2014 at 13:00

You couldn't possibly over-share where this beauty is concerned. You should make sure to tag all your posts with the same tag, that we can keep up with it!

505Turbeaux > JR1
07/25/2014 at 13:01

somebody send this man an oppo sticker to put on that thing. +5 horsepower

...SOON

JR1 > TwinCharged - Is Now UK Opponaut
07/25/2014 at 13:01

Glad I am not the only one to see the beauty in the basket case!

crowmolly > JR1
07/25/2014 at 13:01

Don't pull the engine apart yet. Pull the spark plugs and shoot some Marvel Mystery oil in each cylinder every day for about a week. Use a decent amount.

Make sure it's in neutral and try spinning it with a breaker bar. Might be a good idea to pick up a cheap engine turning bracket that goes on the damper.

JR1 > Sn210
07/25/2014 at 13:02

You may have just unleashed a flood gate of information

JR1 > Brian, The Life of
07/25/2014 at 13:02

Ominous but I like it

JR1 > crowmolly
07/25/2014 at 13:08

I cannot get the spark plugs to budge it is rather annoying.

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > crowmolly
07/25/2014 at 13:08

All this is true, and like I told him before, if he can borrow someone's bore scope and look through the plug holes, he'll be able to tell quite a lot. It'd be good to get it more freely rolling, because that way he can get it either on ramps or to a place with a lift. You know, if he has to take loose the conrods and wood-block the pistons from underneath - been there, done that.

JR1 > Yowen - not necessarily not spaghetti and meatballs
07/25/2014 at 13:09

Lincoln Capri is what I have used for every tag I believe

JR1 > 505Turbeaux
07/25/2014 at 13:09

I am planning on getting one in mint green!

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > JR1
07/25/2014 at 13:09

Remember what I told you before - it takes a fuckton of unibody rust to be a *problem*. get it moving, get it running, then work on rust fixes as you can, in that order.

JR1 > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
07/25/2014 at 13:10

That is my plan of attack. Actually I kinda want to get it clean first then free up the brakes

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > JR1
07/25/2014 at 13:12

I don't suppose you have access to a torch? Careless torch use can crack the plug, but it remains the best way to drive out the water that rust absorbs (making it shrink), finish oxidation ("burn off" rust), and heat the two parts at different rates causing them to break free. A propane torch probably wouldn't be hot enough, but you could still try it.

Fine point acetylene heating right at the interface/lower ring of the plug should do it.

JR1 > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
07/25/2014 at 13:19

I mean odds are it needs new plugs anyway and I already broke one trying to get it out. I may actually have access to a torch my uncle mentioned he might have one if he didn't sell it. If not I may have to shop around and buy one if they are cheap enough. I need to use it to free up the front brakes

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > JR1
07/25/2014 at 13:22

The only risk is wrecking the plug enough that you have ceramic bits go down the bore, which then would pretty much mean pulling the head.

EL_ULY > JR1
07/25/2014 at 13:23

dude hellz yeah! i was thinking of this adventure yesterday. Thnx for the update

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > JR1
07/25/2014 at 13:28

Also, among the other things you can do while waiting on repeat oil treatments: pull the valve covers, and test whether any of the valves that aren't on-cam will move. You may have some seized valve seals, which would be indicated by some of them not moving or sticking after being tapped with a rubber hammer (a step best left until after pulling the rockers out of the way, if it comes to that). If, however, everything under the valve cover looks pretty good, the rockers are free, and any valves are completely free, the rest probably are as well or will follow.

The reason to do this is that if your valves have picked up surface corrosion or fuel gunk trickling down the intake, they may be stuck hard enough to bend your pushrods when the engine turns over.

You probably won't hit anything moving them just slightly, but I don't know what the interference is in that engine, so that should wait until some plugs are out - you want valves that are off-cam *and* not anywhere near a piston to test.

JR1 > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
07/25/2014 at 13:29

Thanks for the tip I will keep that in mind if I can get my hands on a torch.

Vince-The Roadside Mechanic > JR1
07/25/2014 at 13:30

Get a breaker bar and try to get the engine to turn after you do what Cromolly said. to get them off use wd40 maybe rust penetrant would be good for that.

JR1 > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
07/25/2014 at 13:31

How would I know which valves are off cam and not near the piston?

JR1 > Vince-The Roadside Mechanic
07/25/2014 at 13:32

Tried the breaker bar and the engine will not turn. I am thinking it is time for wd40

JR1 > EL_ULY
07/25/2014 at 13:32

No problem! Stay tuned for more!

RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht > JR1
07/25/2014 at 13:35

Not near the piston = checking the spark plug hole (even with a wooden chopstick or whatever) to make sure the piston isn't at Top Dead Center. IOW, make sure your valve would have a little bit of room to bounce.

Off-cam? That would be ones that aren't currently depressed by the cam, which you'll be able to see - some rockers will be clearly in a position for pushing the valve down and a different angle than the rest. Some of those may actually have some wiggle room due to the lifter having been filled with oil and full height, now receded, but if that's the case you've got valves stuck down, which is a whole other problem.

JR1 > RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
07/25/2014 at 13:41

Ok will I guess the real key here is to somehow get those damn plugs off. If I am lucky that'll be my project next weekend if I can get to the brakes this weekend.

Yowen - not necessarily not spaghetti and meatballs > JR1
07/25/2014 at 13:47

Hmm, maybe just now on this post? Or I don't know where to find tags?

JR1 > Yowen - not necessarily not spaghetti and meatballs
07/25/2014 at 14:00

If I type Lincoln Capri into the top right corner search bar all my previous stories appear.

JR1 > Yowen - not necessarily not spaghetti and meatballs
07/25/2014 at 14:01

If it still does not work let me know and I can give you a link to the stories.

Yowen - not necessarily not spaghetti and meatballs > JR1
07/25/2014 at 14:14

A search should do the trick, thanks for your help :D

crowmolly > JR1
07/25/2014 at 15:09

Ramblin's idea of heat is a good one. In addition to what he mentioned the heat cycling of the plug metal itself can sometimes get them free.

Dumping kroil fluid on them for 2-3 days and following up with a good 6pt socket and long ratchet should get it done.

crowmolly > JR1
07/25/2014 at 15:10

No, you are past WD-40. Get a can of Kroil.

JR1 > crowmolly
07/25/2014 at 17:07

Can I get kroil fluid at autozone?

crowmolly > JR1
07/25/2014 at 17:09

Probably not. I believe the best they offer is PB Blaster. Which is also good but not the ultimate. For what it's worth, I've worked on some really rusty stuff and the stuff that basically rust-welded itself together was only freed with Kroil, heat, and an impact gun.

In your case there may be a chance that you get the plugs out some other way but you might frag the spark plug threads, which is why I'm beating the "GO BIG" drum.

JR1 > crowmolly
07/25/2014 at 17:16

Yes! MORE MORE MORE POWER. I need all the help I can get to fight the rust. Looks like I'll be buying the Kroil fluid tonight

ranwhenparked > JR1
07/25/2014 at 18:37

Glad to see you haven't given up hope yet, I think we were all starting to get worried - in the absence of information, fear takes over. Still at square one, but the positives are that the body is decent, the interior might clean up, and there's still a beautiful car under that grime. The engine might loosen up yet, just can't rush it. Everyone here seems to be giving pretty solid advice.

JR1 > ranwhenparked
07/25/2014 at 22:06

It is going to take longer than I wanted to drive it. The problem is I really can't be putting more than maybe a few thousand at the absolute most to get the car driving. We will see. Worst case scenario I have to sell it but I will have learned something and had fun in the process.