"bob and john" (bobandjohn)
07/22/2014 at 12:02 • Filed to: None
0
14|
"bob and john" (bobandjohn)
07/22/2014 at 12:02 • Filed to: None | 0
| 14 |
STILL isnt done.
The final hurdle i'm trying to over come is the f**king front brakes. When I did the swap, I got 2007 GSX-R 1000 radial mounted tokitos. Problem is that they feel VERY spongy. I've identified these problems and tried to fix them, dunno if i'm doing it right though
1: Rubber lines (replaced with stainless steel braided lines)
2: rotors I have are 300MM. the brakes are meant for a 310MM./ machined calipers to b 5MM closer to the rotors.
3: realized my Master cylinder is meant for a 2-2 piston caliper set up. I now have 2-4 pistons. replaced master with a OEM (brembo made) radial master cylinder off of a 2007 yamaha R6
4: maybe the calipers them selves are messed? Took them apart, cleaned out any and all old brake fluid, left in de-greaser over night (pistons and caliper bodies apart) and then rinsed with water, then scrubbed with 99% alcohol to get any and all remaining contaminants out. currently awaiting a new set of seals ($110 with shipping!)
If the seals dont work, IDK what to do. BIKE HAS ABS, and I'm thinking it has something to do with the ABS pump...maybe an air bubble in it? Dont see how if i bleed the whole system.
(also worth mentioning: I did the rear brakes with no problem what so ever. and its plumbed into the same ABS pump)
none of the brake lines are kinked, the fluid is making it way to the calipers cleanly...*sigh*
I really dont want to take it to a shop for a brake bleed...looks like I might have to though.
thebigbossyboss
> bob and john
07/22/2014 at 12:12 |
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I am not sure I understand what the 300MM 310 MM measurement is referring to.
One thing I am learning is vehicles are never done. Fix one thing, something else breaks...forever.
Sure, my suspension is now done, but I still need to do my paintwork, and still need to fix my check engine light. Better get on it I guess.
yamahog
> bob and john
07/22/2014 at 12:14 |
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Sounds like you should try bleeding the front brake (you can probably rent a kit and DIY if you don't want to take it in) and if that doesn't work, your rotor/caliper interface seems suspect.
Protip: cover EVERYTHING unless you want horrific stains on your plastic. Thanks, Dad :(
Mattbob
> bob and john
07/22/2014 at 12:15 |
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Is there any high points in the ABS system? I know at least on cars, with an ABS system if you empty the system, in order to properly bleed it from being empty, you need to connect it to a computer and have the ABS run a bleed cycle. I'd go through and look for points where air could be trapped. Its amazing how a tiny bit of air can mess up a whole system.
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bob and john
> yamahog
07/22/2014 at 12:17 |
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oh after everything was done, the brake were bled. went through a liter of the stuff already.
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bob and john
> thebigbossyboss
07/22/2014 at 12:18 |
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brake rotor disameter. the orginal brake rotor on those forks were 310MM diameter, or 155MM radis. new ones are 300MM diameter, or 150MM radius.
JawzX2, Boost Addict. 1.6t, 2.7tt, 4.2t
> bob and john
07/22/2014 at 12:19 |
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IDK what to do. BIKE HAS ABS, and I'm thinking it has something to do with the ABS pump...maybe an air bubble in it?
DING DING DING! We have a winner... The front and rear ABS channels are separate, just because the rear bled OK, doesn't mean the front does. I imagine the front channel has a larger solenoid given the greater fluid volumes vs. the rear, and having experienced PLENTY of problems bleeding ABS-equipped vehicles that had fluid removed from the ABS pump I'll bet you $5 (I don't make monetary bets, so that's HUGE!) that's where the problem lies... Can you positive-pressure bleed the system? That's the only thing that works reliably on older (80s) Benzes.
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bob and john
> Mattbob
07/22/2014 at 12:20 |
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..hmm, maybe....I'll have to check when I get home. I dont think so though. But I will call a suzuki dealer and see if they need to run a bleed cycle on it though...it seems to be my best bet so far
RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
> bob and john
07/22/2014 at 12:20 |
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Seconding MattBob, some ABS systems literally require bleeding with a vacuum bleeder and/or procedure based bleeding, and sometimes have secondary bleed locations.
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JawzX2, Boost Addict. 1.6t, 2.7tt, 4.2t
> RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht
07/22/2014 at 12:23 |
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+1 for the secondary bleed location note. Some ABS pumps have a bleeder on the valve-body...
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bob and john
> JawzX2, Boost Addict. 1.6t, 2.7tt, 4.2t
07/22/2014 at 12:28 |
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quick google indicates on the SV these is no secondary bleeding. but i think I may have been bleeding it wrong.
I was bleeding it this way:
un do bleed nipple
open reservoir cap.
top up reservoir
pump lever until fluid comes out of bleed nipple (NOT closing the nipple when letting the lever 'reload' with fluid
close bleed nipple
top of reservoir and close
would closing the bleed nipple while letting the lever 'reload' help?
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JawzX2, Boost Addict. 1.6t, 2.7tt, 4.2t
> bob and john
07/22/2014 at 12:40 |
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Factory Service Manual recommends vacuum bleeding for ABS equipped SVs.
Cheap-ass method:
Slightly-less-ghetto method ...
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nermal
> bob and john
07/22/2014 at 12:53 |
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Get one of these MityVac contraptions. Learn how to use it. Bleeding brakes / changing brake fluid is super easy, and should be done regularly. Make sure you only use brake fluid from a fresh, unopened can as well.
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Mattbob
> bob and john
07/22/2014 at 13:18 |
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You always have to close the bleed nipple when you release the brake on almost all brake systems. This prevents air from just getting sucked into the bleed nipple when the lever is released.
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bob and john
> Mattbob
07/22/2014 at 13:21 |
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okk then, looks like I have my answer(s)
borrow someones brake bleeder. (once I get my calipers rebuilt of course) and go from there.