![]() 07/16/2014 at 21:48 • Filed to: help | ![]() | ![]() |
College kid. No car. HMU. Northern VA/DC area.
![]() 07/16/2014 at 21:51 |
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Go on Craigslist.
![]() 07/16/2014 at 21:52 |
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Did that. Trying to find this beauty but the post expired.
"I have a 1969 Mustang coupe for sale. Good -low miles -New head gasket -New valve cover gasket -New …" blah blah blah ARGH SHOULD OF EMAILED HIM.
![]() 07/16/2014 at 21:56 |
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Aren't we all?
![]() 07/16/2014 at 21:57 |
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1.) Good luck finding an affordable S197 that isn't a salvage title. By the way, buy V8s, don't waste money modifying V6s.
2.) Even more good luck finding driveable 1st-gen Mustang for the same price that isn't rusted.
If you're able to do it, then all the kudos to you and one free beer.
![]() 07/16/2014 at 22:00 |
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I always act to late. That is why I got a large canoe and not an old Roadster. (Canoe was free)
![]() 07/16/2014 at 22:03 |
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Why just those years out of curiosity?
![]() 07/16/2014 at 22:09 |
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1) S-197s and Gen-1s are my favorite body styles.
2) 70-73 is kinda, eh, and bulky in my opinion unless it's a BOSS or a Mach 1.
3) Foxbodys are not my thing, but if you give me one for free i'll do it.
4) SN-95s and New-Edges are kinda cheap looking honestly.
![]() 07/16/2014 at 22:09 |
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Unless you gotta 2002-2004 Terminator. Then. Damn.
![]() 07/16/2014 at 22:20 |
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Really? I don't find the New Edge's cheap looking. I'm a little biased since I have a Mach though. I still feel like they hold up design wise.
![]() 07/16/2014 at 22:22 |
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Definitely with new wheels and clean lights. I have no respect for guys riding around in New Edges with chrome vents and dirty lights.
![]() 07/16/2014 at 22:25 |
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I see that all the time around here. I can't stand it. Clean lights can make a huge difference with how a car looks.
![]() 07/16/2014 at 23:05 |
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Get a nice, clean, well-running straight-six Mustang. (And then twin turbo it! ...kidding.) For the same price as a junker V8, you can get a running, rust-free I6. Then swap in a more modern 302 windsor.
302s are so cheap and if you want to put the work restoring it, it's probably better to start with either a used or fresh 10-20 year old motor than a 45 year old numbers-matching motor. This way, you can pick out a good motor with 4-bolt mains or strengthened cylinder wall casting. If you go with a crate motor, you can even get EFI right from the factory.
Expect to pay ~$5000-$10,000 before it's all said and done for a high quality swap. But by then you'd be driving around in a Mustang that would otherwise sell (if it were numbers matching) for $20,000+
Best of all, insurance will probably think it's still a straight-six and (along with classic car insurance) you could get some really good rates.
...then get a solid roller cam, 289 crankshaft, tight valve springs, lightweight pistons and connecting rods, high compression heads, equal-length headers, ITBs, and spin that baby up to 9000 rpm! If you want to spend another $20,000 that is.