"Lemonhead" (lemonhead)
06/25/2014 at 09:00 • Filed to: None
2
10|
"Lemonhead" (lemonhead)
06/25/2014 at 09:00 • Filed to: None | 2
| 10 |
First three lines with my TIG welder (those in the center of the image - the others are FCAW mig lines). Argon bottle arrived and got it swapped yesterday. As everyone says, I ended up dipping the electrode in the puddle on the very first three attempts (not these). So it took me 15-20 minutes to get to the point of making any kind of line because I kept having to stop, grind the tungsten, reassemble, get set, start the arc, dip the tip, — lather, rinse, repeat. Once I got the positioning correct I could keep the arc going and make a line.
It looks to me that the only halfway decent one is the short one in the middle. I think the others are too tall and look cold to me. I could be wrong, if someone knows better, please chime in.
The only real problem I had was that later in the evening I was testing on some square tubing and I could not get the arc started and when it finally did, it would not stay in one place. It just wanted to dance around and so I could not get a puddle going. I had ground the steel shiny, but I guess maybe it wasn't clean enough. Anybody else have an idea?
So, I have learned that 1) tig is very relaxing to me - 2 hours went by in a flash, 2) it's going to take me a lot more practice to get it right, 3) go ahead and prepare those extra tungstens I bought yesterday because it's faster to have several ready to swap, and 4) prepare the metal really well before starting.
Looking forward to tonight's practice. I need to head to the scrapyard and buy some more steel to use for practice.
Clown Shoe Pilot
> Lemonhead
06/25/2014 at 09:24 |
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Weld on, my good man. I just learned TIG a few months ago and it's my favorite way to weld, even though it's dog slow.
On the dancing arc - it's been my experience (limited as it is) that tungsten prep is king. There were instances where I THOUGHT my tungsten was fine but I couldn't get a good arc going to save my life. Careful re-grinding (always along the long axis, never radial) of the electrode and reassembly of the torch and I was back in business.
I also found that I wasn't using enough pedal to get things started. I was trying to ease into the arc. I've found better results with going hammer down to get the arc started and then pull back once the spark is up and running.
what size material are you practicing on? that looks pretty beefy.
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Lemonhead
> Clown Shoe Pilot
06/25/2014 at 09:49 |
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You probably are right about the tungsten. I had read about doing long-axis grinding and that was what I was doing. That material was pretty thick. I tried initially to tack together some sheetmetal and just burned through it (because I don't have a feel for it yet), so I switched to some flat bar I had for practice.
I'll try the hammer down and back off technique tonight after getting everything prepped better.
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Clown Shoe Pilot
> Lemonhead
06/25/2014 at 15:12 |
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this is from memory - i'm not looking at how i have my torch set up right now
for 12 ga sheet mild steel, try a 3/32 tungsten and a #6 cup. set your max amps at about 80 and your electrode stick out to be pretty small - probably no more than 1/8. get right down on your material and then put the pedal to the metal and then back it off. you're PROBABLY long arcing - it's an easy mistake to make. STAY CLOSE to the material. yes, this will make it easier to dip your tungsten. patience!
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Lemonhead
> Clown Shoe Pilot
06/25/2014 at 15:17 |
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Thanks! I'll try it. I had a #5 cup on it last night. I also picked up a smaller tungsten that, according to the chart, is what is optimal.
What do you mean by "long arcing"? I'm guessing it is holding the torch too far from the material. What does that do to the weld?
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Clown Shoe Pilot
> Lemonhead
06/25/2014 at 15:24 |
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yes, long arcing is holding the torch too far away. if the torch is too far away from the material, you're giving the arc more options about where to go (wandering) and you're also wasting power (and therefore heat) bridging the long gap. keeping your tungsten in tight to the workpiece lets you exercise better puddle control and lets you focus the heat right where you need it.
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Lemonhead
> Clown Shoe Pilot
06/25/2014 at 17:05 |
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Thanks, I'll work on that. I think I was a bit too far away so as to try and keep from dipping the tungsten in the puddle.
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Lemonhead
> Clown Shoe Pilot
06/25/2014 at 23:21 |
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Thanks so much for the advice. I switched to a fresh tungsten and used a #6 cup with about a 1/8th stickup. Also turned down the power. Was able to make some nice lines with a proper profile. Turning down the power made it take longer to get the puddle started and I had to work slower, but it also allowed me to see what was happening better and get control. I felt like I had to move too fast yesterday. Turning down the power allowed me to take one factor out of the equation.
I also tried working with some 20 gauge sheet metal. I turned down the gas because it looked like it was blowing the metal away. Started to get some control of the heat on it.
Got about an hour of hood time tonight and only dipped the tungsten twice.
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Lemonhead
> Clown Shoe Pilot
06/26/2014 at 22:33 |
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Watched a video by Mr. Tig on butt welding sheet metal. Between him and your advice, I was able to put down some respectable lines on a piece of 20 gauge sheet metal. I used .035 MIG wire as the filler and was keeping the heat line about an inch wide. Had the gas running about 10CFH and the electrode was about 1/8". I still managed to blow through the steel but I did manage a small segment of successful butt joint weld bead.
I did your technique of stomping the pedal and immediately backing off. I found myself sometimes backing off too much because I was worried about blowing through it. However, I started to get the hang of it. I successfully filled in one of the holes I blew into the piece.
So, I'm now 3 hours into it and it's starting to come to me. I haven't successfully done any fillet welds with the TIG. My plan is to get to where I can lay down correct lines first and then build on that.
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Clown Shoe Pilot
> Lemonhead
06/26/2014 at 22:49 |
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does your machine do AC? if so, get some aluminum to practice on. it was my experience that tig welding aluminum built skill faster than anything else.
i started on mild steel, then went to aluminum. i practiced on aluminum for quite a while and then went to stainless. the first joint i ever welded on stainless was pretty fantastic.
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Lemonhead
> Clown Shoe Pilot
06/27/2014 at 00:06 |
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No, it's just DC. I just got back in from the shop. Took some flat bar and some round bar and made a small section of grate so I could use for other practice. I had to think about where to put the heat first (flat bar first, then flow the puddle into the round bar). Starting to get the feel of directing the torch to put the heat where I want it. I think my first attempts I had the torch angle wrong so the heat wasn't going where I thought.
The goal is to be able to weld the patch panels on the hood and then build the 1" square tubing frame. I need a lot more practice before I start working on the real project. Any advice on building a jig for the frame? It's all going to be 90 and 45 degree angles, maybe just 90's with gussets.
Thanks so much for the feedback. Oppo rules!