This:

"Arch Duke Maxyenko, Shit Talk Extraordinaire" (arch-duke-maxyenko) 03/10/2014 at 21:12 • Filed to: bad ideas

3

8

!!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! into

!!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! backed up by a TR6060 and a 9 inch with a LSD in the rear. 4 link at the rear, flaming river rack and pinion up front and coil overs on all four corners. Change nothing on the exterior.

Casper > Arch Duke Maxyenko, Shit Talk Extraordinaire 03/10/2014 at 21:15

1

I like it. Make it happen.

Blondude > Arch Duke Maxyenko, Shit Talk Extraordinaire 03/10/2014 at 21:15

2

Stick some bias plies on it for bonus danger points.

Agrajag > Arch Duke Maxyenko, Shit Talk Extraordinaire 03/10/2014 at 21:18

1

That would be glorious.

Aaron James > Arch Duke Maxyenko, Shit Talk Extraordinaire 03/10/2014 at 21:28

0

They make all their power at high RPM, you need something with lots of torque and low end HP for a fun, streetable car. A 440 with a fat lopey cam would really wake this sleeping beast.

Arch Duke Maxyenko, Shit Talk Extraordinaire > Aaron James 03/10/2014 at 21:30

0

It's all about the gearing.

Steve is equipped with Electronic Fool Injection > Arch Duke Maxyenko, Shit Talk Extraordinaire 03/10/2014 at 21:30

1

That engine is somewhere in coastal NC. If I were to buy it, (I'm not) I could take a drive down east in a pickemup truck and have it back in a day.

crowmolly > Aaron James 03/10/2014 at 21:40

0

Aluminum rods help it rev but don't help it last.

wabbastang > crowmolly 03/11/2014 at 01:28

1

It would have either titanium or steel rods (or steel-coated titanium), not aluminum in a nascar motor...That's in drag racing where endurance isn't a factor. The thing that makes an engine like this difficult to keep around is the super low-tension rings and the valvetrain - With lift close to an inch springs need to be changed often, and at least be adjusted every few times you run it.

If that all sounds cool then you'll have to get it in the car...You'll need a huge heated dry sump tank to hold 20 or so quarts of oil at ~$15 each that you'll want to plug in to preheat prior to pre-lubing the motor manually each time you want to fire it up. And once you get all that mounted and wired, then plumb it with -16 and -20 where the fittings cost ~$100 a piece. And find a good place to mount all this and give it its own ventilation unless you like sitting next to a 250-degree heater in the car. There's a specific ignition box these like and the distributor is setup to run on parallel boxes so you might as well buy 2.

Regardless, it will have a very narrow power band over 7000rpm or so and idle happy around 2300rpm, making driving at any speed under about 60mph virtually impossible even with super tall gears. The high RPM and horsepower makes finding a transmission surprisingly difficult, as all the typical performance units we are all used to such as a TKO/T56 won't shift at 7000, let alone 9k, so you'll need a very specific unit like a Mid Valley/Tex Racing/Jericho etc that run clutchless and take a certain talent for shifting.

Oh yeah, and if you are bitching about $4/gallon for your 91 octane....

All that said it's great fun to screw around with, and is full of really neat tech you won't find anywhere else...It's cool stuff and not many people get to have experience with these things, but from exactly that I tell you - you really can't do anything with it in a street car besides screw around with a very expensive and high maintenance toy. :P