"Firewrx234" (firewrx234)
12/01/2014 at 00:30 • Filed to: RT Probs
1
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"Firewrx234" (firewrx234)
12/01/2014 at 00:30 • Filed to: RT Probs | 1
| 19 |
Within the last few days a few, seemingly unrelated, issues have popped up. Anyone who can correlate them beyond face value gets an internetz
1) started hearing sloshing right in front of my passenger dash - seems like my heater core is low on antifreeze, checked but seemed ok and heat seems fine, will add more just to be safe
2) newfound whine accompanied by low voltage at idle (12 Volts at idle and 14 when moving, used to be 14ish at all times) - seems like alternator is going out
3) new warbling/vibration noise coming from engine at almost exactly 2000 rpms....can't tell if loose bolt or exhaust or what...totally stumped on this one
If anyone has any suggestions or comments please let me know bc it's odd that these all popped up at once.
Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo
> Firewrx234
12/01/2014 at 00:49 |
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"warbling?"
offroadkarter
> Firewrx234
12/01/2014 at 01:27 |
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Your alternators regulator has shit the bed, replace the alternator now before you have bigger issues (like you being stuck in a lot somewhere with a dead battery).
pip bip - choose Corrour
> Firewrx234
12/01/2014 at 01:32 |
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there's your problem , it's a Dodge. ;)
AMGtech - now with more recalls!
> Firewrx234
12/01/2014 at 01:43 |
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#3 could be related to either #1 or #2. I've heard alternator and water pumps make what could be called "warbling" noises.
nFamousCJ - Keeper of Stringbean, Gengars and a Deezul
> offroadkarter
12/01/2014 at 03:28 |
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Or driving down the road and your lights fade, blinkers stop working and transmission says "oh gollee gee fuck only 2nd gear seams safe" when doing 50 while cutting all the lights off on a 4 lane road
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Firewrx234
> pip bip - choose Corrour
12/01/2014 at 07:02 |
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ha haz, very cute ;)
JGrabowMSt
> Firewrx234
12/01/2014 at 09:02 |
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Its been a whie since Ive had the wagon, but it always made the sloshing noise around the dash area. Even my Neon does. The SL rarely does it, but it has before. With that in mind, if the heat works right, I wouldnt be concerned. If the reservoir shows correct levels, its a pre-mixed coolant (G-05) so you dont want to add coolamt unless its exactly whats in the car.
But like everyone else has said, likely a bad alternator. Theyre easy to do yourself, actually most things on the 5.7 HEMI are, believe it or not.
It would also be a good time to check all the pullies on the motor and see if any grind when you spin them by hand, because they should be replaced immediately. Cold weather is when you'll begin to notice them, and at least with the HEMI, theyre easy to get to. theres the tensioner and a pulley on the water pump (other than the main water pump pulley) to check, both easy to replace without removing much.
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Firewrx234
> JGrabowMSt
12/01/2014 at 09:19 |
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Thanks, that's some great info! I'll dig in and see what I can find out!
twochevrons
> Firewrx234
12/01/2014 at 09:43 |
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Never owned a Charger (or any Chrysler Group car), but to me, sloshing behind the dash would suggest that there's liquid sitting around in the heater ducts. I've seen that caused by a clogged A/C condensate drain, and also as a result of a leaking heater core dripping coolant into a non-drained low spot. An air bubble in the heater core is another possibility, but unless there's been noticeable loss of coolant, or the cooling system has recently been drained or refilled, I would consider it fairly unlikely, especially if the heat is working just fine.
It might also pay to check the drains at the base of the windscreen – on some cars, if they're clogged, then water might be able to get into the heater ducts through the intake.
If there's no smell of coolant from the vents, I'd put my money on the A/C drain. I've had success snaking them out with a piece of wire from where they exit the car, but if you can get to the drain from the inside, the best option is to unhook the drain hose and blow it out with compressed air.
That whining noise and voltage drop almost definitely sounds like a dying alternator. That said, I've also had cars with noisy alternators that have gone for years without causing any trouble.
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JGrabowMSt
> Firewrx234
12/01/2014 at 10:06 |
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If you're like me, and a little bad with the short term memory, you can use this picture for the belt routing, should be exactly what you have. Alternator is on the far left just stuck on there. The two pullies to check are the tensioner and then the one between the water pump and alternator. Top right is power steering, bottom right is the air conditioning compressor, bottom center is crank, top center is water pump.
I'll just go ahead and say that this is one of the easiest things I've ever worked on, and if anything is stubborn, just hit it with a little PB Blaster, and it'll come right off without trouble.
My water pump was good well through 145k miles, so is my alternator. Only thing giving me trouble is the power steering pump which is going to be replaced when the new motor goes in. Most of the front of my old motor will be re-used.
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Firewrx234
> twochevrons
12/01/2014 at 13:25 |
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Thanks, I'll definitely try to check the drain and see if it's clogged. And I'm betting the alternator is going out.
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Firewrx234
> JGrabowMSt
12/01/2014 at 13:28 |
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Wow. That seems pretty straightforward. This leaves lots of room for me to screw it up lol
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JGrabowMSt
> Firewrx234
12/01/2014 at 14:05 |
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Its really easy. I did the bulk of work on my HEMI using a 110 piece tool kit I actually won as a door prize at a show with it. Use a 3/8" wrench to loosen the tensioner and pull the belt off, then disconnect the battery, take all the wires off the alternator, and unbolt the alternator and chuck it. If it jumps out of the garbage, put it back, otherwise get yourself a new one. Installation is reverse of the removal. You bolt it up, attach the wires, install the belt, connect the battery.
I would do both of the pullies while the belt is off, and maybe the belt as well. The pullies are probably $20 each, the belt is about $15, and then the alternator cost. All said and done a simple job that will let you get comfortable with you Charger.
On a side note, what year is it again?
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Firewrx234
> JGrabowMSt
12/01/2014 at 15:03 |
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It's an 06. Only 102k miles on it :)
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JGrabowMSt
> Firewrx234
12/01/2014 at 15:08 |
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You have something to be afraid of. If you have the budget, I strongly suggest you look into getting new heads put on your motor. It could save you from certain disaster ...
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Firewrx234
> JGrabowMSt
12/01/2014 at 22:47 |
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Luckily when I got my Charger I got a nice warranty and I'm hoping if it wants to go wrong that it will before my warranty ends. Otherwise I will be saving up for such a disaster. I watched yours happen in pieces and it was sad lol
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JGrabowMSt
> Firewrx234
12/02/2014 at 00:13 |
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when does your warranty end? I'd say look into what the cost of getting your heads machined and have the valve seats re-done by a really reputable shop that knows what they're doing. Given the mileage, it also doesn't hurt to have the head gaskets done, and everything cleaned up internally. It certainly takes a long time to have it all done, but you have no idea how much I wish I decided to do the 6.1 head swap while I had the car parked for nearly a month in the summer to finish other work on it. It wouldn't be sitting in a shop right now costing me a whole lot more money than swapping the heads would have.
The killer is that I know people with well over 250k miles on theirs, and not a single problem. It kills me, because I never abused that car, but it seems like the previous owners may have...
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Firewrx234
> JGrabowMSt
12/02/2014 at 07:16 |
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I'm gonna say that I've got another year and 2 months. What else is required when switching to the 6.1 heads?
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JGrabowMSt
> Firewrx234
12/02/2014 at 08:20 |
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Swapping the heads requires pushrods and the complete replacement head (valve lift is different requiring the 6.1 pushrods).
Alternatively, you can have you heads machined, and the valve seats redone, which is just a couple hours labor in the machine shop. The shop working on my car would quote a job like that at probably under $1000 because getting it apart is easy. Considering its a preventative measure for you, it could also add value to the car, knowing it wont have catastrophic failure in a cylinder...