"MooseKnuckles" (andyschenk)
10/25/2013 at 13:35 • Filed to: None
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"MooseKnuckles" (andyschenk)
10/25/2013 at 13:35 • Filed to: None | 0
| 15 |
Is anyone running one of these? I have the Torque Pro app for Android so I should get full use of the tools offered.
I mostly want my isnt. MPG and avg. MPG. 0-60, current HP and torque, and everything else will be cool to have too.
Features:
Read diagnostic trouble codes, both generic and manufacturer-specific, and display their meaning (over 3000 generic code definitions in the database).
Clear trouble codes and turn off the MIL ("Check Engine" light)
Display current sensor data, including:
Engine RPM
Calculated Load Value
Coolant Temperature
Fuel System Status
Vehicle Speed
Short Term Fuel Trim
Long Term Fuel Trim
Intake Manifold Pressure
Timing Advance
Intake Air Temperature
Air Flow Rate
Absolute Throttle Position
Oxygen sensor voltages/associated short term fuel trims
Fuel System status
Fuel Pressure
vdub_nut: scooter snob
> MooseKnuckles
10/25/2013 at 13:37 |
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12% throttle, totally stopped, .7g in the z axis? Is this car falling out of a plane?
Yowen - not necessarily not spaghetti and meatballs
> MooseKnuckles
10/25/2013 at 13:38 |
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MPG will not be accurate out of the box. you'll have to hand calculate several tanks and make adjustments to torque to approach accurate numbers.
The problem with the cheaper dongles is the refresh rate, making the gauges seem kind of laggy and possibly slightly inaccurate. But on the whole of it, don't get me wrong, it's a very awesome toy to have! Just wanted to let you know what to expect.
hike
> MooseKnuckles
10/25/2013 at 13:39 |
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I got one of these but I've really only used it for check engine lights. It seems to draw power when I leave mine plugged in and my car sits sometimes so I don't want it dying. I also don't want to be distracted by it while driving.
crashonice
> MooseKnuckles
10/25/2013 at 13:39 |
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Yep, Ive got one of the generic bluetooth ELM dongles I use w/torque pro on an old android phone. Works as advertized. Don't put too much faith in the mpg claims, though. I've found them to be rather inaccurate (or at least wildly fluctuating), but if you make a screen w/ throttle position, fuel flow, engine load, revs, etc you can quickly get a good feel for how your car responds to inputs, and learn the best way to drive for good MPGs.
Also, the bluetooth can be a pain in the ass reconnecting after turning the car/phone off every time. I've heard better things about the wifi versions - but either way, money well spent.
Decay buys too many beaters
> MooseKnuckles
10/25/2013 at 13:41 |
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I use one and it works great.
Just a word of caution, remove it before starting your car. Mine threw a check engine light because it interrupted some kind of communication on startup. It only happened to me once though (despite repeated startups with the dongle installed and communicating), and the CEL has not returned.
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MooseKnuckles
> Yowen - not necessarily not spaghetti and meatballs
10/25/2013 at 13:43 |
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Ya I figured for $12 on Amazon I can't go wrong. Kind of sucks about the MPG stats, that's one thing I was hoping for as my one car has it on the LCD screen/ info center and my other car is too entry level + old.
NaturallyAspirated
> MooseKnuckles
10/25/2013 at 13:43 |
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Somebody on here really knows their stuff when it comes to Torque, hopefully he will comment soon.
I had to play around to find gauges that worked with my Subaru. For example, I had to add the "Boost" gauge to my naturally aspirated Subaru to get manifold pressure readings in in/hg.
Edit: Yes, I'm an A&P (aircraft mechanic). If I ever get a turbo'ed car, I'm putting a "MAN PRESS" sticker over the word "Boost" on the dash.
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crashonice
> vdub_nut: scooter snob
10/25/2013 at 13:44 |
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I've found mine is notoriously bad at false zeroes. My miata is 9.8% throttle at true 0, and my colorado is almost 20%. G-meter is an in-phone sensor that may or may not be accurate.
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Yowen - not necessarily not spaghetti and meatballs
> MooseKnuckles
10/25/2013 at 13:46 |
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yeah, I think if you read up on it you can figure out how to get it calibrated fairly well. But I don't know how much you could trust it.
Velocity- Peuguette Connoisseur
> MooseKnuckles
10/25/2013 at 13:50 |
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Yep. Good stuff. Plain n simple
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crashonice
> Yowen - not necessarily not spaghetti and meatballs
10/25/2013 at 13:59 |
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Yep, with some reading and fine-tuning you can get some decent results, just make sure to set up your different vehicle profiles, so that when you swap rides you don't have to start from scratch every time, or wonder why everything is funky.
timateo81
> MooseKnuckles
10/25/2013 at 14:10 |
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it's not difficult it just take some time to tweak settings. find someone with your car who has already figured it out. profit.
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timateo81
> MooseKnuckles
10/25/2013 at 14:24 |
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I have a Prius (and like it). In any event, the HUD in the car is over-simplified. With a little extra data you can really improve MPGs. So I use the above dash to help me out.
* The gas engine is most efficient between 1,000 and 1,500 rpm. There is no tach in the prius, so i have one here. Also lets me know when gas is being used (at least under 42mph, above that engine always turns but doesn't always use gas).
* optimum coolant temp. is 190F but during warmup you want to get to 150 asap (long story - car is designed to reduce emissions so it uses lots of gas to heat up the cat). between 150 and 190 the car goes into a secondary warmup stage that uses less fuel. Over 210 is overheat. so on the coolant gauge i've drawn up all those boundaries so i know when i enter them.
* "Soc" stands for state-of-charge of the hybrid traction battery. you generally want to keep this at 60%, because it's really inefficient to regen battery via the gas engine. sometimes also, if you have a surplus (like after a long decent) you can use that strategically instead of the gas engine to get some more gas-free miles. there is no meter in the car that reliably shows you your level, so i made one.
* We have a dog, and it's known that pet hair can clog up the cooling fan for the traction battery. in the bottom right i have a dial for the HV battery intake temp as well as battery temp. also have a dial that shows what speed the coolant fan is spinning (1-6). usually runs at 2, but if it starts running at 4 or 5 all the time it's a warning that the fan is clogged with dog hair and i need to tear it down.
* bottom left i have an on/off dial for A/C compressor. the HVAC is so frickin "automatic" that the A/C runs sometimes even when the A/C button is in the off position. started pissing me off knowing that i wasn't able to tell if the compressor was spinning or not.
Overall I love torque, but as others have said it's not always the most amazing thing in the world. pretty close most of the time.
Also, sometimes if I'm not careful about turning BT off, it will trip the TC light and cause the prius' regenerative braking to be lost. scary.
eovnu87435ds
> MooseKnuckles
10/25/2013 at 14:34 |
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I have the exact one you pictured. It works great! there are a few caveats.
1. For some reason you have to unpair/re-pair it every time you plug it in or move it to a new car. Leave it plugged in all the time.
2. The read rate is super slow, so checking CEL's takes about a minute to complete, and if you're reading more than 2 gauges in Torque, the real time data will be very, very choppy.
Also, not all cars support all functions. Many older ones can't get mileage from the ECU. It can through some clever guess work if you give it the car's curb weight and epa mileage, etc.
XJDano
> MooseKnuckles
10/25/2013 at 15:22 |
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once you get to a screen and long press, , select add display, the running sensors will be highlighted in green. alot of them dont work for the metro, but it seems that avg MPG is pretty close.
I have changed the set up a little bit since this,
