Oppo poll

"Bandit" (2bandit) 10/17/2013 at 18:40 • Filed to: emma

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Would these be $60 well spent on emma? I do like loud noises. !!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!! I wouldn't bolt them on, they would get welded on by the muffler shop when emma gets her exhaust built. Also, any clue on how much an exhaust would cost? I already have long tube headers and mufflers (both 2.5" diameter pipe) and I want the exhaust to end aft of the rear wheels.

Arch Duke Maxyenko, Shit Talk Extraordinaire > Bandit 10/17/2013 at 18:44

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I would only recommend those if you're gonna go to the races. Or if you have pipe running from those to out from under the middle of the car, otherwise hello exhaust fumes.

Squid > Bandit 10/17/2013 at 18:47

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If you run those do yourself a favor and put a turndown on the end. or run a length of pipe so it exits just in front of your rear tires.

Bandit > Squid 10/17/2013 at 18:48

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Why?

Takuro Spirit > Bandit 10/17/2013 at 18:48

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Get electronic ones. Trying to uncork them at the track (after driving an hour to get there) will leave scars on your fingers. Ask my buddy Barry.

Bandit > Arch Duke Maxyenko, Shit Talk Extraordinaire 10/17/2013 at 18:49

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I've driven the car for a year with the exhaust terminating under the rear seats, I'm use to exhaust fumes and I have T-tops.

Bandit > Takuro Spirit 10/17/2013 at 18:50

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Yeah, that's a concern I hadn't thought of... Although I don't think these would only see use on a track if you know what I mean.

Takuro Spirit > Bandit 10/17/2013 at 18:53

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Plus, y'know, crawling under a car that doesn't have all that much for ground clearance.

Casper > Bandit 10/17/2013 at 18:56

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Last standard straight exhaust I had welded up header back cost around $200 (I don't remember if a muffler was included in that or not). Just depends how many weird bends and welds it takes. Prices also vary a lot by area. Buying a full 3in prefabbed from McKinney Motorsports for this last build was far more expensive, but I wanted to have an exhaust ready to mount rather than fabbing one up once the engine was in.

Squid > Bandit 10/17/2013 at 18:59

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Fumes. Just dumping out an open hole with no direction to the flow will invite the exhaust into your cabin. It is safer if you get stuck in traffic to direct that CO and NOx towards the ground, as I am assuming the dumps would be before the cats right? Granted if you only open the dumps on a track then you got noting to worry about.

Bandit > Squid 10/17/2013 at 19:06

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Oh, makes sense but... Cats, ha! Emma is a 32 year old Trans Am with no emissions equipment what so ever. The PO had the exhaust end under the rear seats, so I know how bad sucking in all that crap is. Thank god for T-tops.

Bandit > Casper 10/17/2013 at 19:07

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Thanks for the info!

Squid > Bandit 10/17/2013 at 19:17

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Haha well then I guess any exhaust going further back would be an improvement. The turndowns are still a good idea though. It may make the cut outs louder by having the exhaust bounce off the ground, but I'm not sure about that.

Bandit > Squid 10/17/2013 at 19:22

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Thanks for your input! I would love to find a way to make these adjustable, I don't want to go towards cable operated valves because they seem to have a problem with rusting and leaks. Perhaps manufacturing a set of caps with a restrictive hole drilled in it would work.

Squid > Bandit 10/17/2013 at 19:27

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You could always extend the dump towards the rockers so you would have more access to change the caps, but I think that would hurt your exhaust flow when the dumps are closed. The solenoid operated ones may be the route to go. Just try to find one that is weather proofed and has a replaceable solenoid of the generic variety.

davedave1111 > Bandit 10/17/2013 at 19:28

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A straight-through exhaust is borderline antisocial even at a track. Anywhere else, it's off the scale.

That said, I've considered building a modern diesel-swap into a seventies car to get a road-legal hp boost by removing all the modern emissions-control restrictions, so I'm one to talk...

Bandit > davedave1111 10/17/2013 at 19:32

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I know it would be obnoxious, that's why I want something I can close off and just open when I want it. No way could I DD something that is open exhaust all the time, I value my hearing and I don't want to trample on the law all the time. I would probably only use it on country back roads. As for that awesome engine swap idea, get on it man!

davedave1111 > Bandit 10/17/2013 at 19:40

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I live in London. I suspect ripping the emissions controls off a diesel round here isn't so much borderline antisocial as execution of asthmatics.

Now I think about it, I may have reacted there based on what it's like in England. There isn't really anywhere here you could run an uncontrolled exhaust without being a bit naughty. The US is big enough that there must be places far enough from anyone for it not to matter, though.

Bandit > davedave1111 10/17/2013 at 19:43

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Oh come on, you know billowing clouds of lung cancer emanating from an awesome car in the center of London would be amazing.

 > Bandit 10/17/2013 at 19:43

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If you want cut outs, spend a few bucks more and get electric ones. They are worth it. You can open and close them with a push of a button. I have a set of my Crown Vic and I have them closed most of the time because it's annoying hearing the exhaust all the time.

Gasolinelollipop > Bandit 10/17/2013 at 19:46

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There are cable operated versions. They don't seal well and they are cast iron so you'll have to use a clamp to join the with your exhaust system. You then run manual choke style cables into the cab to open and close them. Electric versions are $$$$. I recommend running the straight pipe to the rocker with a turn down. Turn downs will also give a slight change in sound.

davedave1111 > Bandit 10/17/2013 at 19:50

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Did you see my posts back when I tried to buy a kei-truck? Sadly foiled by insurance issues, but it was an early Honda kei-pickup. Mid-engined, rear wheel drive. I wanted to swap in a 1500cc non-turbo diesel and double the power, with a couple of straight through stacks in the bed rolling coal - again legal because judged by the emissions standards of the time when it was built.

The plan was to do a rolling coal burnout outside Buckingham Palace in a kei-truck, and I honestly think I could have made a profit from the youtube hits on the video of it if it hadn't been for the £1500 insurance quote quadrupling the total cost.

Gasolinelollipop > Bandit 10/17/2013 at 20:06

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Most muffler shops will bend up a fairly cheap exhaust system and weld it in. They also tend to build it on the car and don't have flanges. If you ever need to drop it out you have to cut it. I'd recommend spending a few bucks extra and have them put flanges on both ends of your mufflers. You will probably have to supply the flanges.

Bandit > Gasolinelollipop 10/17/2013 at 20:09

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Great advice! I hadn't though of that. I shall look into it.

FJ80WaitinForaLSV8 > Bandit 10/17/2013 at 20:23

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I like my electric one a LOT. Highly recommend QTP cutouts. Also if I were to do it again I would get the low profile ones.

Bandit > FJ80WaitinForaLSV8 10/17/2013 at 20:28

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They would be awesome, but cost WAY more than I can afford to spend on a novelty like these (a set of cutouts would cost more than I paid for my engine).

FJ80WaitinForaLSV8 > Bandit 10/17/2013 at 20:38

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Yeah they are a big pricey haha I got lucky and just needed one for my Mercury.

http://oppositelock.jalopnik.com/panthursday-ex…

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A lot of people who do non electric cut outs route a side exhaust below the rocker panel near one of the wheel wells. That way they are easy to get to. Shouldn't be too expensive if you are making an exhaust from scratch.

TheDon > Takuro Spirit 10/17/2013 at 20:43

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Totally get electric cutouts. A friend has them on his Caprice with a stroker motor he built and it sounds like the gates of hell have been unleashed when they are opened.