by "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
Published 12/20/2017 at 17:42
by "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
Published 12/20/2017 at 17:42
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STARS: 1
So the bad news, there’s no longer continuity between the two wires going to the sensor. I double checked my crimps, perfect continuity across them. I haven’t fucked with the sensor or those two wires since I got the good continuity reading last time (and yes I did have my multimeter set correctly to account for the resistance of the sensor.)
So the good and bad news, is that there’s still a problem between the connector and sensor. The good part, is that it might mean my ECU is fine. Since this Accord has a transponder from the factory, getting a new ECU would mean having to get the dealer or a locksmith to reprogram the key for the new ECU.
The bad news is that, that problem still exists. Hopefully I should be getting the OEM sensor in tomorrow and I’ll throw that in. My current theory is that the plastic on the aftermarket sensors is thicker than the OEM one. Because when I swapped between the two AutoZone sensors, it was a bitch to get the connector off.
So hopefully the OEM sensor will solve all my problems. And if so I will never ever, ever, ever, ever, ever, ever, ever buy parts from AutoZone again. And preferably only OEM parts, or parts from RockAuto that actually fucking work.
"Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo" (thetomselleck)
12/20/2017 at 18:17, STARS: 2
How far are we going this project? Because I’d be willing to contribute to a GoFundMe page for you to get you out of that Accord.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/20/2017 at 18:24, STARS: 1
This isn’t such a bad idea, I’ll sell it to the highest donator for $1 so that they can build a sweet Lemons car!
"Die-Trying" (die-trying)
12/20/2017 at 19:12, STARS: 0
you cant let the accord keep whoopin you..... i still believe in ya..... you got this.....
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/20/2017 at 19:33, STARS: 1
Idk, because if this new sensor doesn’t work. I’m not sure it’ll be worth it to get a new ECU and reprogrammed key.
"Victorinoo" (victorinoo)
12/20/2017 at 20:03, STARS: 1
If you want to test your theory, you can solder two wires to the pins in your current autozone sensor. Then connect those two wires to your female connector, and see if the car reads a temperature and runs.
"TFSIVTEC drivesavolvo" (drivesaswedishcarmadeinbelgium-)
12/20/2017 at 22:23, STARS: 0
Dude my Saab with 230k has had less electrical issues than your accord. Not saying I haven’t sunk in over a G in parts between the head gasket and front end refresh but still. That’s some hard luck with a Honda... luckily wiring has a means to a end. One of my favorite automotive issues to work on actually. So where are you testing from? Is the sensor block grounded?
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/20/2017 at 22:38, STARS: 0
If the picture doesn’t actually load (It took like 5 tries and idk if Kinja will actually post it) just go to my post “Accord status” and it’s there. The sensor in question is highlighted.
So it’s a two pin sensor that’s reads the coolant temp for the ECU, the engine won’t run without it, it’s basically just a thermo resistor.
This all began when the old sensor broke in have with the plastic part melted inside the connector. So I order a new sensor (OEM) and connector off ebay. Got the connector last week and put it on. The whole time I’ve had continuity across the butt connectors I put it on with, so I don’t think that’s the issue.
However I got impatient and wound up buying two sensors from autozone since the OEM one was taking so long to come in (should be in tomorrow) The connector has had trouble with making good contact with the aftermarket sensors. Difficult to get it to click over the sensors and get continuity through it.
So I got the sensor and connector to make good contact. But the wire that’s suppose to send voltage (the one above the sensor in the diagram, red going to C26) has 3.5V instead of the 5V it should get. However Racing Bob said that there’s an extra resistor in that circuit that doesn’t show up on most wiring diagrams, so the 3.5V is probably correct. However, AMGtech and trail of blown headgaskets are convinced that the wire with 3.5V should be the ground and the wire from the bottom of the sensor on the diagram (green, coming from C18 and going to a few other sensors) should have voltage and the other wire should be the ground.
So today I was trying to see what kind of voltage/continuity was like straight off of the ECU at C18 and C26. I couldn’t get a reading. So I check the sensor and the two wires going to it had lost continuity. I rechecked continuity across my crimps and it was good. So the sensor and connector aren’t making contact anymore (the previous day I had got them to have continuity.)
My plan now is to wait for the OEM sensor to come in and throw that on. If that doesn’t work then I’m just going to solder the two wires directly to the sensor. If that doesn’t work than I have a wiring issue somewhere or the ECU is bad. I kind of doubt either though. Because the original problem was the old sensor melting in half and there is voltage going to the sensor, just not enough (or enough if racing bob is correct.)
I also doubt a wiring issue, because the two wires from the sensor go into a heavily shielded wiring harness all the way to the ECU. So I kind of doubt there’s any issues in there.
"TFSIVTEC drivesavolvo" (drivesaswedishcarmadeinbelgium-)
12/21/2017 at 00:15, STARS: 1
So 5V-3.5V from the ECU gets sent to a resistor that is variable based on the coolant temp. Then that remaining voltage gets sent to both oxygen sensors, intake air temp, and throttle position sensor. The first leg of the circuit should be easy to isolate. RW between C26 and the coolant sensor. The second leg (CB) needs to be disconnected from all the sensors and ECU to have the continuity checked between all points. If that hasn’t been checked I’d go from there.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/21/2017 at 02:03, STARS: 0
Ohhhh, so basically check for shorts in the other circuits GB (what you called CB) connects to?
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/21/2017 at 02:06, STARS: 0
The problem with that, is that my test leads aren’t long enough to check the wire at the sensor and the ECU. I think the best I could do would be to check the wire at the ECU to chassis ground.
"RacinBob" (racinbob)
12/21/2017 at 09:25, STARS: 2
By the way, if the engine isn’t running, I would try swapping back in your old distributor. Unplugging a sensor or having a bad temp sensor should not prevent the engine from running. My impression is that the ignitors used in these secondary market distributors are pretty sketchy.
"RacinBob" (racinbob)
12/21/2017 at 09:38, STARS: 0
Sorry but not correct. Some sensors measure voltage drop at the source. Look at D2, it has a resistor upstream so the measurement is upstream. Others like the MAP sensor terminal D4 have unregulated 5 VDV for power. But all sensors go to ground through the common D11 at the top of the drawing.
But all sensors go to ground through the common D11 at the top of the drawing in my drawing and in his through G/B back from the oxygen sensor.
"RacinBob" (racinbob)
12/21/2017 at 10:12, STARS: 1
No not shorts.
What I am saying is the Green/Black G/B wire is grounded back to the computer. Use your VOM on resistance and measure resistance between G/B wire and a convenient ground such as the istributor housing. It should be 0 ohms or close. Last time you checked it was 3 ohms. Then go to the housing of your ECU and check it to a convenient chassis ground. If both are zero, then we have no problems with the Green/Black ground wire as it is grounded to both chassis and computer.
"AMGtech - now with more recalls!" (amgtech)
12/21/2017 at 11:21, STARS: 1
That doesn’t make any sense. If the reference voltage goes through a bunch of sensors and they all send their signal back to the ECU on one wire, the ECU can’t possibly determine which sensor is saying what. These aren’t voltage coded components on a LIN bus. The reference voltage has to come from C18, and each sensor sends its own signal back to the ECU.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/21/2017 at 12:40, STARS: 0
Maybe, I’ll check any CELs. Because I would imagine on OBD-II that the computer would notice if the igniter wasn’t working. I think it’s the sensor, because there’s black smoke out of the exhaust, when I get it to run a little bit, and it’ll backfire. Which I think would be the result of having spark, but getting way too much fuel.
"brianbrannon" (brianbrannon)
12/21/2017 at 15:41, STARS: 0
No offense, but I think you need to have a pro look at this.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/21/2017 at 15:45, STARS: 0
I think I’ve been barking up the wrong tree. Today I put the OEM sensor in and cleared the codes. It’s still not running but it’s not backfiring like before. The big thing though, is that I borrowed a scan tool from AutoZone. And it’s not throwing any codes.
So I think the sensor is good. However I recently replaced the distributor with a rebuilt one. And Racing Bob said remans and aftermarket one’s are awful. So it’s looking like the new distributor is bad. (igniter or coil.)
"TFSIVTEC drivesavolvo" (drivesaswedishcarmadeinbelgium-)
12/21/2017 at 18:44, STARS: 0
I’m not saying it makes sense at all, but that’s how the wiring diagram looks.
"TFSIVTEC drivesavolvo" (drivesaswedishcarmadeinbelgium-)
12/21/2017 at 18:45, STARS: 0
You can extent your test leads with any scrap wire in a pinch.
"AMGtech - now with more recalls!" (amgtech)
12/21/2017 at 19:10, STARS: 0
Sure? But if you change your perspective and look at it like voltage flows the other way it makes all the sense in the world.