Edit: Again, fuck this car and fuck AutoZone too

Kinja'd!!! by "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
Published 12/18/2017 at 16:01

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Update: So I bought the new sensor and the connector won’t snap on it. It just stops without clicking. I figured that’d be good enough to run around town for a few days, so I start it (after clearing the code) and it’s still doing the same thing. Running so rich it won’t run. I tried checking the CEL to see if it’s still throwing the same code, but it’s not even doing the fucking diagnostic shit it’s suppose to. I can only assume the connector came off a car, so it’s OEM and probably not at fault. And the butt connectors are holding strong, so I’m sure there’s continuity across them.

Original post

So last week I ordered a new coolant temp sensor and associated connector (long story short, the old one was borked.) So the connector came in Saturday and I put it on the car then. However the temp sensor (which I paid $8 for btw) is currently in Illinois still, according to the tracking thingy. A new sensor from AutoZone would be about $20 and I could put the new sensor in today.

Kinja'd!!!

The estimated delivery for the sensor I already ordered is Wednesday. Initially I though that was conservative since the connector was estimated for Tuesday, but came in Saturday. However with it still being in IL I doubt I’ll get it before Wednesday.

So what should I do Oppo? Wait for the one I’ve already bought to come in, or go get one from AutoZone?

It doesn’t appear I can return the sensor either and if I could, I’d probably have to pay for shipping back so it which would be more than I payed for it probably.

Also; the car doesn’t currently run, because with out the temp it just runs the engine super rich and it dies.


Replies (39)

Kinja'd!!! "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/18/2017 at 16:06, STARS: 2

I just had a devious idea. Buy one from AutoZone, put it in. Then when the ebay one comes in. Swap them out, clean off the AutoZone one and return it!

Kinja'd!!! "farscythe - makin da cawfee!" (farscythe)
12/18/2017 at 16:08, STARS: 2

eh depends... do you need it to run stat?... coz if so.. buy the right now option and keep the other as a spare... you’ll need it sooner or later..

if not.. just wait a couple days

Kinja'd!!! "BigBlock440" (440-4bbl)
12/18/2017 at 16:09, STARS: 0

I don’t know where you’re at, but I’ve had things come from halfway across the country and be on my porch the next day, it just depends on what type of shipping you’ve got and when the trucks are headed your way.

Kinja'd!!! "Recovering Gaijin" (toxrensem)
12/18/2017 at 16:09, STARS: 2

Got any electronics stores nearby? Like old CB shop or even Radio Shack? Get on the forums and find out what the resistance should be at operating temp,buy the appropriate resistor, and soldier it in there. Plug hole with old sensor. It’s just for a few days.

You may be able to buy resistors at an HVAC supply house if there aren’t any ham or CB radio places near you

Kinja'd!!! "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/18/2017 at 16:10, STARS: 0

Really the most important thing I need the car for. Is to go home to Houston (3 hour drive) later this week. I could get by a few days with out it, but it’d be a pain in the ass as you can imagine. Plus it hasn’t been able to run all week.

Normally I’d just buy the $20 sensor and be done with it, but I just spent $40 on the window regulator.

Kinja'd!!! "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/18/2017 at 16:12, STARS: 0

USPS, so I kind of doubt it. I’m in San Antonio, the connector came from Nevada (I guess near Las Vegas or Reno) and got here in about 4 days or something. Although I imagine LV or Reno is much closer to me than IL.

Kinja'd!!! "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/18/2017 at 16:14, STARS: 0

Although that’s a good idea. I don’t think there’s anywhere nearby me that sells plain resistors, although I’ll check.

Kinja'd!!! "farscythe - makin da cawfee!" (farscythe)
12/18/2017 at 16:17, STARS: 0

understood... i’d still wait for the bought part personally..... well.. at least i’d give it a day or two before deciding walking everywhere sucks to much to bare

after all... you always have the $20 right now option available when time/ patience runs out

Kinja'd!!! "farscythe - makin da cawfee!" (farscythe)
12/18/2017 at 16:17, STARS: 0

understood... i’d still wait for the bought part personally..... well.. at least i’d give it a day or two before deciding walking everywhere sucks to much to bare

after all... you always have the $20 right now option available when time/ patience runs out

Kinja'd!!! "WilliamsSW" (williamssw)
12/18/2017 at 16:18, STARS: 1

Yeah, I’d do this, or just keep it around as a spare. Just be careful with the box and sensor, and don’t return either one dirty so they can put it back on the shelf immediately.

Kinja'd!!! "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/18/2017 at 16:22, STARS: 0

But the longer I wait the less I’m getting out of the $20 sensor. I think I’m just gonna buy it today, then swap it out with the one in the mail and try to return it. I’m pretty sure AutoZone has a 30 return policy.

Kinja'd!!! "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/18/2017 at 16:23, STARS: 1

I have some electronics cleaner. So I figure it I spray it off with that’ll it’ll be clean. And these things normally come in easy to open cardboard boxes so it shouldn’t be an issue.

Kinja'd!!! "Recovering Gaijin" (toxrensem)
12/18/2017 at 16:23, STARS: 0

Wait, I may be an idiot...

Check the forums: is the ets a variable resistor, or just a simple limit switch that completes the circuit once up to temp? If the later, just connect the wires.

**check first** -conceivably, damage could result if its a resistor and you just connect the wires! Not likely, but don’t take a chance: I wouldn’t if it were mine

Kinja'd!!! "WilliamsSW" (williamssw)
12/18/2017 at 16:24, STARS: 1

If it were me, the hardest part would be not getting greasy black fingerprints all over the box TBH

Kinja'd!!! "farscythe - makin da cawfee!" (farscythe)
12/18/2017 at 16:28, STARS: 0

check the receipt before unwrapping the part mate.... sometimes small print says fun stuff like 30 day return if un opened

Kinja'd!!! "Chariotoflove" (chariotoflove)
12/18/2017 at 16:34, STARS: 0

Have a few beers, watch a movie, and forget about it until it comes in the mail. Besides, it gives you something to look forward to.

Kinja'd!!! "benjrblant" (benjblant)
12/18/2017 at 16:50, STARS: 0

Hey! I’m driving to H-Towne this weekend too!

Kinja'd!!! "MoCamino" (mocamino)
12/18/2017 at 16:59, STARS: 0

To me it all depends on how tight your finances are right now. If you’re even asking the question, I’m guessing $20 is more than you want to just blow. Personally I’d get the one from AutoZone and keep the incoming $8 one as a spare, but I’ve been in that spot where $20 was a lot of money, so I get it.

Maybe check some other local parts stores? (If you haven’t already.) This past weekend I needed a part for my Cavalier that was $25 at AZ but only $8 at O’Reilly’s. Fortunately I have five or six different parts chains around me, so I’ve learned to shop around for price and availability. I have to guess in SA you have multiple choices, too.

Kinja'd!!! "Captain of the Enterprise" (justanotherdayinparadise)
12/18/2017 at 17:13, STARS: 0

Is it your only car?

Kinja'd!!! "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/18/2017 at 17:35, STARS: 0

Yeah, but I still need to go Christmas shopping and it’d be nice to get groceries besides just stuff to make sandwiches.

Also update. I bought the sensor, and it doesn’t work! The connector slides over it, but won’t click. I tried to start it up (after clearing the code) and nothing. I can only imagine the connector came off of a car in a junkyard or someone was parting out, so I can’t imagine that’s at fault. And the connectors are holding well so I don’t think it’s that either.

Kinja'd!!! "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/18/2017 at 17:36, STARS: 0

Yep

Kinja'd!!! "farscythe - makin da cawfee!" (farscythe)
12/18/2017 at 17:41, STARS: 0

well at least if it dont work you got a solid case for getting your money back..... or at least getting a swapsy..... if the next one they give you dont work.. you have bigger problems

Kinja'd!!! "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/18/2017 at 18:43, STARS: 0

I got another one, the connector clicked going on it......and it doesn’t work either. I checked my crimps with a multimeter and I have continuity across them. So I really don’t know now.

Kinja'd!!! "crowmolly" (crowmolly)
12/18/2017 at 19:34, STARS: 0

If you have time, just for shits and giggles, disconnect the battery for 1/2 hour and then go back and re-connect.

And to confirm, it is the correct replacement sensor and correct replacement connector? Can you scan and see what it’s reading?

Kinja'd!!! "gmctavish needs more space" (gmctavish)
12/18/2017 at 19:40, STARS: 1

I feel like you should maybe cut your losses with this thing...

Kinja'd!!! "Joe6pack" (joe6pack)
12/18/2017 at 20:01, STARS: 0

Have you tried NAPA? If you can get to a distribution center, they will generally have what you need.

Kinja'd!!! "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/18/2017 at 20:09, STARS: 0

I guess I’ll just disconnect the battery over night. Yep, it’s the correct connector and sensor. The other sensor doesn’t have any plastic to it and the one for the fans is on the thermostat. The connector is keyed the correct way and it’s a two pin. So it should work.

Kinja'd!!! "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/18/2017 at 20:10, STARS: 0

I wish, but it doesn’t have any internal engine problems so I can’t really justify that. Worst case I’m soldering a resistor across the wires so that the ECU thinks the engine is whatever temp.

Kinja'd!!! "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/18/2017 at 20:13, STARS: 0

I don’t think it’s the sensor at this point. I don’t think even AutoZone would sell two bad one’s in a row. So I’m guessing it’s some kind of wiring issue, or the ECU just isn’t resetting the CEL. The sensor I have in the mail is an OEM. So if that doesn’t fix it, I doubt anything from NAPA would.

Kinja'd!!! "gmctavish needs more space" (gmctavish)
12/18/2017 at 20:19, STARS: 0

True, I just say that since it seems like as soon as you fix one thing, something else breaks. I’ve had a couple cars like that, and it’s exhausting

Kinja'd!!! "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/18/2017 at 20:21, STARS: 0

Honestly, apart from the initial issues it had. This and the window regulator are the only things that have broke since I’ve had it, although that hasn’t been very long. But the regulator was a common problem, so can’t blame this specific car too much for that.

Kinja'd!!! "gmctavish needs more space" (gmctavish)
12/18/2017 at 20:25, STARS: 0

Fair enough, that definitely doesn’t seem so bad when you put it that way

Kinja'd!!! "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/18/2017 at 20:37, STARS: 0

Also I’m wondering if I just need to floor the pedal when I start it. Since the ECU has just been pouring gas into the engine, maybe it just needs to clear all the fuel out to run?

Kinja'd!!! "gmctavish needs more space" (gmctavish)
12/18/2017 at 20:40, STARS: 0

It should be long evaporated by the time you try and start it again. But that may work for matching the airflow better to the amount of fuel? Still may not idle after you let off the gas though.

Kinja'd!!! "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/18/2017 at 21:09, STARS: 1

Yeah, I can get it to idle with a little bit of throttle, but I haven’t tried flooring it. Might give it a shot just because.

Kinja'd!!! "FTTOHG Has Moved to https://opposite-lock.com" (alphaass)
12/18/2017 at 21:29, STARS: 1

Bruh. Altex. You’ll probably have to buy a pack of like 500 but that’ll be under $10. You’re over by IH-10 and DeZevala somewhere, right? Closest one should be on 1604 between Babcock and Hausman. Also Intertex on Hildebrand - http://www.intertexelectronics.com/

Kinja'd!!! "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/18/2017 at 21:42, STARS: 0

Awesome, I’ll look into this. Although I’m starting to think the issue is closer to the ECU than to the sensor itself.

Kinja'd!!! "FTTOHG Has Moved to https://opposite-lock.com" (alphaass)
12/18/2017 at 21:55, STARS: 1

I think you’re probably right that it closer to the ECU at this point. I still recommend checking out Altex sometime when you have a free minute just to get an idea of what all they have in case you need to grab something in the future. It’s a pretty unique place - lots of PC components, networking gear, etc - almost like a brick and mortar NewEgg. It’s about the only place in town for finding odd connectors and adapters now that RadioShack isn’t really around anymore (and the ones that are don’t really sell those kind of things).

Kinja'd!!! "Captain of the Enterprise" (justanotherdayinparadise)
12/19/2017 at 03:26, STARS: 0

I’d probably buy it then