by "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
Published 12/09/2017 at 17:29
by "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
Published 12/09/2017 at 17:29
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STARS: 1
Update: That yellow bullshit in the connector is half of the coolant temp sensor. In became so brittle that it snapped in half. When I removed the distributor to get to it is was hanging off like that. I’ve tried pliers to pull it out, but it just breaks it’s so brittle. I tried drilling a small hole into it and then drilling in an extrator bit and pulling it out using the drill bit as an anchor. But the bit would slip out of the chuck before it’d slide out of the connector.
And to add in some more bullshit. When I closed the hood it didn’t close all the way and it’s now stuck and I can’t open it (I just closed it normally I didn’t slam it or anything.)
I’m thinking my only option now is to cut the connector off, solder on a new one and replace the sensor afterward.
Also any advise on the hood sitution? the hood latch appears to be hooked over the bar on the hood.
Original post below
So remembering the car is OBD-II. I decide to pull any codes before doing anything. I got code 6, which is the engine temp sensor voltage high/low. Now I added coolant the other day when it was snowing. After that the coolant gauge on the dash stopped working. But I didn’t think anything of it, since the car didn’t have any temp issues before hand. Also from my experience with Honda’s this sensor is probably a separate one from the one for the gauge.
Now here’s the thing, the symptoms of code 6?
So here’s the thing. The car still won’t run without me giving it gas it just idles. But how could a sensor cause that? Is it likely the ECU just can’t function without the sensor or what? Anyway. Guess I better get a new one in there and see what happens. I’m just confused on how a bad temp sensor causes black smoke and the engine not being able to run. You’d think it could just put the fans on and go into limp mode....
"gettingoldercarguy" (gettingoldercarguy)
12/09/2017 at 16:27, STARS: 0
So it goes turbo rich in case the engine is hot when the sensor failed? A bit overkill but makes sense.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/09/2017 at 16:32, STARS: 1
I got it. The sensor in question is under the distributor. I replaced that the other day and some oil must have gotten on it and ruined the sensor. I’ll probably get some electrical cleaner to clean the connector.
"Die-Trying" (die-trying)
12/09/2017 at 17:16, STARS: 0
some of those have 3 sensors, one on the thermostat to turn on the fans, the one wire one, that goes to the temp gauge, and the other one next to the one wire that tells the computer how cold/hot the engine is......
might of had some feral cats trying to stary warm in the engine bay bumping connections.....
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/09/2017 at 17:24, STARS: 1
Ohhhhhhhh. It’s so much worse than that. Short story. The plastic at the end of the sensor became so brittle that it snapped in half. Even better, It’s too brittle to pull out of the connector with pliers.
And on top of all that bullshit. I closed the hood (didn’t slam it mind you) and now the hood is stuck and won’t close all the way and I can’t open it again.
Words can’t express how much I hate this car right now.
"RacinBob" (racinbob)
12/09/2017 at 17:28, STARS: 0
I had a flakey sensor on my race car. Those sensors do fail. I ended up replacing mine and the problem went away.
step one would be unplug it and bend/twist the pins so they are sure to make they contact the plug contacts. If that doesn’t do the trick, buy a new one.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/09/2017 at 17:30, STARS: 0
I just updated it. The sensor snapped in half and I can’t get it out of the connector.
"E90M3" (e90m3)
12/09/2017 at 17:31, STARS: 2
Once again, I am confused as to why you bought this car. I know you wanted to save money, but it seems like it’s been nothing but a headache since you got it.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/09/2017 at 17:33, STARS: 1
Because I’ve never had any were near this much trouble with an old Honda. Even older and equally janky ones.
"Die-Trying" (die-trying)
12/09/2017 at 17:37, STARS: 3
yikes thats a rough mess....... what a tar-baby you got going there.... have you tried just tripping the hood latch from inside, or giving the hood a real stout yank to get some slack, or bouncing your weight on the nose of the hood? just gotta quit being nice to it, and make it pay attention to you
it just sounds like a fiasco.....
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/09/2017 at 17:41, STARS: 0
I tried pulling it up and kicking it done, but nothing. I’ll try the hood release next. I ordered a new connector with pigtail and sensor of ebay for less than $20 shipped. So that’s not gonna be too bad overall. I can go a few days without the car.
"interstate366, now In The Industry" (interstate366)
12/09/2017 at 17:48, STARS: 2
Your previous Honda was built in Japan. Ohio Hondas aren’t up to the same standards.
"E90M3" (e90m3)
12/09/2017 at 17:48, STARS: 0
That’s fair enough.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/09/2017 at 17:50, STARS: 0
I never though about that. Although I think my old Civic was made in America (92 EG)
"Die-Trying" (die-trying)
12/09/2017 at 17:52, STARS: 1
your car’s name ought to be tar-baby..... you cant hurt the sensor that is in the connector any more than it is, if you have an ice pick, or a light testor(with the sharp probe) you could pry at it until you got it out. if you already got a hole put in it, you could use one of those deck screws or similar looking self tapping screw to get a bite on it, and pull against.....
"RacinBob" (racinbob)
12/09/2017 at 17:59, STARS: 0
Once the hood is opened. Look at the plug and you will see these is a catch that you push to release the plug from the sensor. Get that released and it should come apart. Google the sensor, they are dirt cheap. Like $20.
"Sovande" (sovande)
12/09/2017 at 18:12, STARS: 1
Maybe don’t name your car after a term with derogatory implications for African Americans? Just a thought.
"Die-Trying" (die-trying)
12/09/2017 at 18:19, STARS: 0
ever heard the story of the tar-baby?...... is it derogatory?
anyhow, a tar-baby is a trap, that the more that you try to fight against it, the more hopelessly stuck to the trap you become......
"Sovande" (sovande)
12/09/2017 at 18:29, STARS: 0
The term has taken on derogatory connotations.
"interstate366, now In The Industry" (interstate366)
12/09/2017 at 18:41, STARS: 0
Either America or Canada.
"Die-Trying" (die-trying)
12/09/2017 at 18:45, STARS: 0
its a shame....... he taught us so much......
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/09/2017 at 18:53, STARS: 0
I was pressing the tab while I was doing all that and still nothing. I think it’s just cheap shitty plastic. I already ordered a new connector (with wires) and an OEM sensor off ebay for $20 shipped. I’ll just solder the new connector on with the propane torch and I should be good to go.
Also I got the hood fixed. Just sprayed it with some PB blaster and smacked it a bit. I opened and closed it all the way a few times to make sure it won’t give me anymore problems.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/09/2017 at 18:54, STARS: 0
I just looked at my old insurance policy for it. The VIN started with a 1 witch I think means it was made in America.
"interstate366, now In The Industry" (interstate366)
12/09/2017 at 20:27, STARS: 0
Yep. Canadian ones started with 2. I think the hatches were traditionally made in Canada back in the day. The Canadian ones weren’t any better, just look at the paint on the 8th gens.