by "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
Published 12/08/2017 at 01:42
by "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
Published 12/08/2017 at 01:42
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So today I found out that in the Accord it won’t change the direction of the air (floor, face, defroster, etc) So I found this diagnostic test you can do and it says to “push the mode control button to vent” but idk which one is vent.
Here’s a picture of the HVAC controls. (Not my car, pulled off Google)
"Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo" (thetomselleck)
12/08/2017 at 01:47, STARS: 1
I think it just means “select desires venting location,” as shown by the 5 options you have.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/08/2017 at 01:50, STARS: 1
I think it’s something specific. Since it’s apart of the Konami code to do the self diagnostic test.
"XJDano" (xjdano)
12/08/2017 at 01:59, STARS: 2
I bet it’s the recirculate button.
And now that read the rest of it... I bet vent is now the first option. Not a combo, not the floor & not defrost. Just the vents.
"XJDano" (xjdano)
12/08/2017 at 02:03, STARS: 0
See fords use of vent in the vans.
"sony1492" (sony1492)
12/08/2017 at 02:22, STARS: 0
I’d guess it’s the main registers, the first button.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/08/2017 at 02:34, STARS: 0
But they’re all vents! I think you’re right though, it being the first one. Because at the beginning it says to press “FLOOR/VENT”
"Smallbear wants a modern Syclone, local Maple Leafs spammer" (smallbear94)
12/08/2017 at 08:07, STARS: 1
Vent usually just means outside air. In that context, my guess is the face button.
"You can tell a Finn but you can't tell him much" (youcantellafinn)
12/08/2017 at 08:59, STARS: 2
Vent is the face button with AC turned off. Back in the olden days when I started driving horseless carriages we didn’t even have pictures. We didn’t even have blue and red to tell us which was hot and cold.
/get off my lawn
"Full of the sound of the Gran Fury, signifying nothing." (granfury)
12/08/2017 at 21:44, STARS: 0
I would guess that the first of the five is ‘vent’, but which is the mode control button? That wording sounds wrong - I would assume that the button on the far left is the vent mode control button, not that they are two separate things.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/08/2017 at 21:48, STARS: 0
Yeah that is kind of weird. I think they’re all the mode control buttons, but anyways. The plan is tomorrow after my final I’m going to hit up a junkyard for an actuator and see if that fixes it.
"Full of the sound of the Gran Fury, signifying nothing." (granfury)
12/08/2017 at 21:50, STARS: 1
WD40. Just soak everything in WD40, provided you like that fragrance. Or unplug and replug the connectors. It’s amazing how many things I revived on the 525i just by doing that.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/08/2017 at 21:55, STARS: 0
I’ll probably do that, but I don’t think that’ll help. The rods moved easily and I’ve never had a connector on a Honda come loose. Although if it’s cold when I go to the junkyard I might just slip the actuator in my sweatshirt pocket and walk out...
"Full of the sound of the Gran Fury, signifying nothing." (granfury)
12/08/2017 at 22:36, STARS: 1
t’s not so much a matter of the connectors coming loose, but from my experience it’s tiny amounts of corrosion building up on the contacts that cause a bad connection. There were two incidents on the 525i that I fixed at no cost that at first thought I thought would be expensive to repair. One involved a number of trip computer functions and inop cruise control that all pointed to a failed speed sensor. I didn’t know where the sensor was, how tough it would be to remove, and how expensive it would be to source a replacement part. As a first attempt at fixing the problem I yanked all of the ECUs, sprayed a little contact cleaner on them and reinserted them. All of the problems disappeared.
The other one occurred after I did some underhood detailing. The car still started and ran just fine, and all of the safety stuff (lights, wipers, etc.) all worked normally, but the toys didn’t (windows, locks, seats, radio, sunroof, etc.), at least not on a regular and consistent basis. After studying the wiring diagrams I found that all of the affected systems went through a massive fusible link under the hood that I must have jostled during cleaning. A few seconds with some emery cloth and everything was once again back to normal.
On a related note, I had an incident about 7 years ago at an office where I worked. One of our bus drivers almost overshot the office, so instead of driving all the way around the airport he decided to just back up a little, albeit without a guide person. Well, he backed into the power pole right outside the office and knocked out the power. Oops.
To get things repaired we had to shut down all electricity to the building which was done via a the main power switch on the electrical panel, and it handled something like 400 or 500 amps. This was probably the first time that this switch had been used in decades, and when used it separated the mating surfaces between the two contacts in the switch, just like it’s supposed to do.
Fast forward a few weeks. The breaker panel was in an equipment closet (networking, power, phones) right off the conference room, and someone using that room came to me and said that they noticed a burning electrical smell. I investigated, and when I touched the main power panel I nearly burnt my hand. I went around the office and told everyone to shut everything down and that I was turning off power to the building in 10 minutes and calling an electrician before the building went up in flames.
(something like this, but not exactly)
The electrician came in with an external generator, spliced it into the main panel, and we ran off that for several weeks. The switch was so old that they couldn’t easily find parts, so we used the generator until proper components could be sourced and the repair completed. Because that switch hadn’t been exercised, for lack of a better term, in decades, when we separated the contacts and reconnected them, the mating surfaces with their various bits of corrosion and metal transfer between the contact points didn’t exactly match up resulting in an imperfect connection, with arcing happening on those contacts causing even more problems. This, obviously, was the source of the heat and smell that nearly burned down our office, all because a bus driver was in a hurry and didn’t want to turn around or make another lap of the airport.
"I like cars: Jim Spanfeller is one ugly motherfucker" (qaaaaa)
12/09/2017 at 21:57, STARS: 1
Can you have the system on (left fan dial) but the LED for AC not illuminated? I think that’s vent. You’re venting air from outside- comes through cabin air filter, but skips the AC unit and heater.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
12/09/2017 at 21:59, STARS: 0
You might be right, I just assumed they’ed say A/C off if that was the case, but you may be right, since it didn’t work at all for me.
"I like cars: Jim Spanfeller is one ugly motherfucker" (qaaaaa)
12/09/2017 at 22:07, STARS: 0
Yeah, give it a go. I said it because in our family van (E-150) the AC had a setting for vent that did just that. Air same temp as outside, but moving a bit and not as loud as it was with windows open (very loud).