by "Party-vi" (party-vi)
Published 12/04/2017 at 07:40
by "Party-vi" (party-vi)
Published 12/04/2017 at 07:40
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I just replaced my thermostat last night, bled the system, and took the car on a 20 mile shake down with no issues. Driving to work this morning I saw my temperature gauge drop & stay down on the highway, only coming back up to operating temperature in traffic. It seems like my thermostat is stuck open again, meaning the heating element is on constantly, but I’m not sure what fix there is for a bad heating circuit. The connection at the thermostat was dirty, but I can’t imagine a bad connection would allow for the heating element to turn on but not off. I don’t think it’s my water temp sensor, and I’ve got a mechanical fan, and there’s no code. What the hell?
"PartyPooper2012" (PartyPooper2012)
12/04/2017 at 08:01, STARS: 1
Interesting... I didn’t know thermostat needed a circuit to operate.
I was initially going to suggest maybe cleaning out the old fluids out of the system.. maybe something clogging it up. but now I see there is some wiring gremlins in your future.
Is there a fuse for it? Say it burned up... I would venture to say german engineering made it stay open so engine doesn’t overheat.
Now that I am reading some posts... air... air in system, bleed it more better
"PartyPooper2012" (PartyPooper2012)
12/04/2017 at 08:03, STARS: 0
http://www.bmw330ci.net/maintenance/coolant.php but I am sure you read that already
"Full of the sound of the Gran Fury, signifying nothing." (granfury)
12/04/2017 at 08:05, STARS: 0
Air. That’s it. On the Vanagon you actually had to raise the front of the vehicle to get it to bleed properly.
I like that German cars fail with the thermostat open so it can’t overheat. I have no idea what’s going to happen when the thermostat in the Mazda fails - German style failure or American?
"Party-vi" (party-vi)
12/04/2017 at 08:07, STARS: 0
I might just be stuck with bleeding this thing for a week.
"PartyPooper2012" (PartyPooper2012)
12/04/2017 at 08:10, STARS: 0
you won’t be first... you wont be last.
I took my mini (bmw) to a local shop to get the coolant flush.
The system is so fucked.... it took them 3 hours to get all the air out. I think they missed the part where front of the car being up would have helped... but I wasn’t gonna argue with them. They were getting mad too.
"traitor joe" (traitorjoe)
12/04/2017 at 08:34, STARS: 0
I remember seeing a really cool device for bleeding coolant in difficult systems. With the coolant empty, you run compressed air past a venturi at the rad cap to put the whole system under vacuum. Then you put a hose into the new fluid and the system just sucks it up! Doesn’t do you much good though, sorry.
"Party-vi" (party-vi)
12/04/2017 at 08:37, STARS: 0
Eh. I’ll just go out at lunch and check the coolant level and re-bleed again. And again. And again. And again.
"e36Jeff now drives a ZHP" (e36jeff)
12/04/2017 at 09:06, STARS: 0
when you filled it, did you put the key in the ignition, then set the car to max heat with the fan on low? If not, you didn’t get the valve to the heater core to open and that is likely introducing a large quantity of air into your system.
"Party-vi" (party-vi)
12/04/2017 at 09:46, STARS: 0
I had it started, with heat set max and the fan on the first setting to open the valve.
I had it bled last night until I got a steady stream of coolant out of the bleed screw. I’ll just have to check the coolant level this morning after it’s cooled off to make sure I get a good bleed on it.
"AMGtech - now with more recalls!" (amgtech)
12/04/2017 at 10:24, STARS: 0
This is the only way I will fill a cooling system. Fast, easy, and just about fool proof. Even works on stubborn V12's and rear engine cars.
"Das Shtig" (Shtig)
12/04/2017 at 10:25, STARS: 0
I’m of no use with regards to this topic, but any chance you could make it so I can post on oppo? As in, post my own threads etc. I was told you were the one with the power to make it so!
"e36Jeff now drives a ZHP" (e36jeff)
12/04/2017 at 10:26, STARS: 0
I seem to remember squeezing the upper radiator hose with the engine running to speed things along, but that might have been my e36 too.
"Party-vi" (party-vi)
12/04/2017 at 10:43, STARS: 0
Did that too. I loath bleeding this damn thing.
"e36Jeff now drives a ZHP" (e36jeff)
12/04/2017 at 10:44, STARS: 0
Weird, I don’t have traumatic memories of bleeding either the e36 or e46. I seem to remember both of them being one shot and done.
"Party-vi" (party-vi)
12/04/2017 at 10:46, STARS: 0
You’re already an author. I “followed” you for oppositelock. Try posting to Oppositelock. In the Compose Post page, the upper left should have a drop-down menu that will let you pick Oppositelock.
"Party-vi" (party-vi)
12/04/2017 at 10:46, STARS: 0
Did you sacrifice a small mammal beforehand?
"e36Jeff now drives a ZHP" (e36jeff)
12/04/2017 at 10:52, STARS: 0
Not that I am aware of, but knowing me there was probably a blood sacrifice during the cooling system refresh.
"If only EssExTee could be so grossly incandescent" (essextee)
12/04/2017 at 12:23, STARS: 0
I’d whip out my multimeter and start testing sensors and connectors if I were you.
Mine bled completely in like 20 mins. The trick I find is that you need to keep adding coolant cobstantly as the system sucks it out of the reservoir, if you let the res get empty it’ll suck in air and then you’ll never get it bled.
"LOREM IPSUM" (lorem---ipsum)
12/04/2017 at 12:49, STARS: 0
Check the electrical connector and wiring for water intrusion. The connectors are known to leak, allowing coolant to wick up the wiring, sometimes all the way to the computer, eventually/potentially killing it.
Otherwise, bleed bleed bleed, and make sure the heat is set to max temp. Best to put the front end on ramps or park nose up on a steep hill to get the air to collect at the top of the rad, then crack the bleeder.
Once it’s bled as well as you can, just check the coolant level in the AM when it’s stone cold a few days in a row and top off as needed.
Do not overfill. That pressurized cap is solely responsible for bleeding off extra coolant should you add too much, however in my experience you have a hugely increased chance of blowing hoses/vp gaskets/tanks before the cap gets a chance to do it’s job.
"LOREM IPSUM" (lorem---ipsum)
12/04/2017 at 12:54, STARS: 0
Oh, and to reduce inconvenience in the future, (if you didn’t do so this time) when refilling coolant after a drain, disconnect the top rad hose from the rad and pour coolant directly into the rad hose until it starts pouring out of the top of the rad itself. Then reconnect hose, start car, and top off/bleed.
"Party-vi" (party-vi)
12/04/2017 at 17:15, STARS: 0
I’ll check it tonight to see if my coolant reads low. It was a little better driving home after adding a quart of coolant.
I did have some oil in the thermostat connector, but since the thermostat is opening I believe it is still functioning correctly. What a PITA.
"LOREM IPSUM" (lorem---ipsum)
12/04/2017 at 17:39, STARS: 1
Best to check the level after it’s been sitting for 12+ hours so it’s stone cold to allow for complete fluid contraction.
Might want to open up the loom a bit and check for liquid intrusion too, just to be safe.
It’s one of those things that doesn’t happen to everyone, but happens enough that it’s a known issue. Problem is, it’s not usually obvious that anything is amiss until your computer shorts out one day. Remarkable really, that the fluid is able to wick that far, but it can and sometimes does.
Not a cheap fix either once it gets that far, because it ends up requiring a replacement computer which will need to be coded to your chassis (dealers won’t code used pars so need a competent indy or inpa and a dongle to diy), plus a replacement wiring harness, plus a new thermostat housing...
Hopefully not your issue, but just wanted you to be appropriately aware, just in case.
More than likely just a fluid issue/stubborn air bubble though, so keep checking the fluid before you leave every morning until you find it at it’s proper level... And if you do happen to find it overfilled one morning, do extract some of the fluid yourself.
"Party-vi" (party-vi)
12/04/2017 at 17:53, STARS: 0
Opening the expansion tank at lunch today had it make gurgling noises, but after the drive home all I got out of the bleed screw was solid coolant, no bubbles. I’ll see what tomorrow looks like when I open the tank back up. I really appreciate the info.
"LOREM IPSUM" (lorem---ipsum)
12/04/2017 at 17:56, STARS: 0
Good luck, my Bavarian owning brethren!