by "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
Published 11/27/2017 at 22:53
by "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
Published 11/27/2017 at 22:53
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So power is supplied through fuse 47. I checked it, it’s blown. Worth noting the blown fuse in there was rated for 10 amps more than it should have been. So I put a new, correctly amped, fuse in there. Ground the first wire I cut, the horn sounds. I do this a second time, it works but the fuse blows again.
So now I guess I’m looking for a short. Fuse 47 provides power to all these things below. The catch. The car still starts normally, the lights and turn signals work, I don’t think my car has ABS, however the brake lights don’t work. Idk if they are the cause of the fuse blowing or if they’re out because of the overrated fuse that was in there.
So I guess one step forward and two steps back.
"Stephenson Valve Gear" (stephensonvalvegear)
11/27/2017 at 22:59, STARS: 2
I see that the car has two horns powered by the same fuse. Try isolating those circuits one at a time and see if the fuse still blows. I suspect your problem is in there somewhere. It cannot be on the light green / blue wire, or the horn would honk all the time.
"Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo" (thetomselleck)
11/27/2017 at 23:00, STARS: 4
This Accord is quickly becoming a strong candidate for the Oppo Hall of Infamy
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 23:01, STARS: 0
I think you’re right. The horn sounded different and was quieter the second time.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 23:02, STARS: 0
BUT HONDA’S ARE RELIABLE!- I’ll never say again.
"benjrblant" (benjblant)
11/27/2017 at 23:06, STARS: 0
Replace “are” with “can be”
"bob and john" (bobandjohn)
11/27/2017 at 23:08, STARS: 0
wait you are running 2 horns through the same fuse?
you think...just MAYBE. that you are putting too much load through it and THATS why its blowing? not because there is a short?
"Urambo Tauro" (urambotauro)
11/27/2017 at 23:08, STARS: 0
Ooh, the plot thickens!
Don’t let the long list of possibilities intimidate you. If there’s a problem with the brake lamp circuit, start there. Could be a short in the switch.
"cbell04" (cbell04)
11/27/2017 at 23:16, STARS: 1
Pull the bulbs from the lamps and try again. Just had this convo on oppo but my wifes old honda had the wrong bulbs stuffed in and it caused all kinda issues. Hers was a 90 so different but easy and worth a shot.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 23:19, STARS: 2
But really anything can be reliable if you throw enough parts and time at it.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 23:19, STARS: 0
That’s the way it was from the factory.
"bob and john" (bobandjohn)
11/27/2017 at 23:20, STARS: 0
are the horns that are on it the same draw as the stock ones?
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 23:21, STARS: 0
I think I’ll try the horns first like Stevenson valve gear suggested. I think the bulbs just blew since the fuse was overrated, but I’ll check them out if it’s not one of the horns.
"Patrick Nichols" (pnichols)
11/27/2017 at 23:26, STARS: 1
I don’t think the blown fuse would cause your car to not start or run, as it looks like it is just the ignition interlock (probably the lock that prevents you from pulling your key out when it’s not in park) and the light up ring around it. Engine management I presume would only be affected when changes would need to be made to fuel management (maybe when VTec kicks in? do you still feel it kick in yo?). ABS probably should not be tested without knowing either if you have it or if it works, because ditches love cars. Brake lights not working checks out and I suppose you could check the alarm system if you have one. I think Stephenson’s right on this one.
"Patrick Nichols" (pnichols)
11/27/2017 at 23:27, STARS: 1
That assumes reliable parts exist for every vehicle
"benjrblant" (benjblant)
11/27/2017 at 23:27, STARS: 0
Exactly!
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 23:28, STARS: 0
Yep, it’s the stock horns. The only thing I’ve done is add the switch.
"Aremmes" (aremmes)
11/27/2017 at 23:28, STARS: 1
1. Isolate the horns from ground.
2. Put a multimeter between battery positive and the horn wires on A8/A9.
3. Whichever horn wire gives you a voltage reading has a short to ground. Fix it.
"Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo" (akioohtori)
11/27/2017 at 23:32, STARS: 1
What kind of manual are you using? I am a massive hoarder of digital repair manuals and found the Honda factory service manual in my collection. Factory service manuals can be SUPER helpful. Let me know if you want it/ have downloaded it so I can kill the link.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/p31l09jfqofwigr/Honda%20Accord%201992-1997%20Approved.zip?dl=0
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 23:32, STARS: 0
Awesome! So to be clear, disconnect the horns from their connectors (they each have two wire connectors, I’m assuming one voltage and one ground) Read across each two wire connector and the good one should never give a reading and the bad one should give a reading on one? (This is assuming I don’t bother to figure out which wire is ground or power. Although I guess that probably wouldn’t be too hard to figure out.)
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 23:35, STARS: 0
At first I was using Haynes, but I went by a dealer and they gave me one. So as long as the issue is with the horns (which I’m thinking it is) I should be good.
Even then. If it’s not the horns I think I’ll just wire the horns directly off the battery and remove it after it gets inspected. I never use my horn anyway.
"bob and john" (bobandjohn)
11/27/2017 at 23:42, STARS: 0
okay then. Short somewhere.
God speed.
"Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo" (akioohtori)
11/27/2017 at 23:43, STARS: 0
Oh cool! Good to kill the link then?
"d15b" (d15b7)
11/27/2017 at 23:56, STARS: 0
93 Honda Civic del Sol? Please? :)
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/28/2017 at 00:01, STARS: 0
Yep
"Aremmes" (aremmes)
11/28/2017 at 00:52, STARS: 0
Pretty much that. Once you unplug the horns the circuit should be open (the horns form the ground connection). You would then place the multimeter’s positive probe on a live power line and the negative on pin A8/9. If the wires are good there should be no ground sink and therefore no current passing through.
"Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo" (akioohtori)
11/28/2017 at 09:17, STARS: 0
Looks like I only have the Civic in that range and it doesn’t explicitly cover the del Sol.
"d15b" (d15b7)
11/29/2017 at 22:04, STARS: 0
That will be IMMENSELY helpful. 93-95 Civic book?
"Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo" (akioohtori)
11/30/2017 at 09:32, STARS: 0
1991 to 1995 Civic. I wouldn’t use the .exe that comes with these. No idea what they do but considering the source... The PDFs are all in there.
https://www.dropbox.com/s/pjda1l3sizg4acu/Honda%20Civic%201991-1995%20Approved.zip?dl=0
"d15b" (d15b7)
11/30/2017 at 21:34, STARS: 0
Thank you. Any chance you have a Mercedes Benz W123 book? Or, the 1979 - 1993 Mustang? :) Asking for friends.
"Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo" (akioohtori)
12/01/2017 at 09:36, STARS: 0
Sadly no.
Most of my stuff is from this weird torrent I found a while back. Seems to be no rhyme or reason to what is does and does not have.
"d15b" (d15b7)
12/01/2017 at 20:08, STARS: 0
Doesn’t hurt to ask. Thanks!
"d15b" (d15b7)
12/01/2017 at 20:08, STARS: 0
Doesn’t hurt to ask. Thanks!