by "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
Published 11/27/2017 at 20:46
by "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
Published 11/27/2017 at 20:46
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I have new information this time. So I went by a dealer and got a print out of the horn system. I split it up into multiple pictures, but the layout is from the horn relay to the horn switch. Than from the horn relay (other side) to the actual horns
Important. Where I cut and wired in the switch earlier is between J6 and whatever is to the right or down (depending if Kinja rotates it or not.) Note this is before the fuse box, which I believe is my issue.
Other side of relay
!!!error: Indecipherable SUB-paragraph formatting!!!
They let me talk to a service guy and he said I should put the switch on the wire going between the horn switch and the clock spring. Although this would work, I think mounting it would be weird, since I’d have to mount the switch to the steering wheel itself.
I’m thinking the wire get’s it’s power from the fuse box. So if I wire the switch in after the fuse box it’ll work. (wire the switch between C14 and A11 in the first photo.)
That doesn’t really make sense, because I can sound the horn by grounding the horn switch, but idk.
"deekster_caddy" (deekster_caddy)
11/27/2017 at 20:57, STARS: 0
It looks like the horn switch tells a module to fire the relay. For a full override you should probably put your switch on the lt grn/blu wire between a11 and c14, no?
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 21:02, STARS: 0
Exactly what I was thinking. But I’m confused as to how grounding the original horn switch sounds the horn, but putting the switch where I did doesn’t. Since it appears to basically be just one wire (apart from going through the clockspring which I don’t think would mess with the circuitry at really.)
"Urambo Tauro" (urambotauro)
11/27/2017 at 21:08, STARS: 0
...a service guy and he said I should put the switch on the wire going between the horn switch and the clock spring.
What does he think you’re trying to do, install a kill switch for the horn?
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 21:10, STARS: 0
Nah, essentially it would just act as a replacement for the stock horn. My issue is that there’s not really any room to mount a button inside the steering wheel and mounting it on the outside of the steering wheel seems silly.
"Urambo Tauro" (urambotauro)
11/27/2017 at 21:19, STARS: 1
That doesn’t replace anything. Putting another switch in series with the existing switch isn’t going to restore circuit function. It’s going to add an extra step. You would then have to activate two switches simultaneously to sound the horns.
UNLESS... your original horn switch is broken in such a way that it stays closed . If that were the case, the horns would be blaring non-stop, and installing a switch in-line would allow you to break that circuit, and re-energize it at will.
What was wrong with the original switch, again?
"deekster_caddy" (deekster_caddy)
11/27/2017 at 21:28, STARS: 0
The switch where you put it tells “Passenger’s multiplex control unit” to do something. But I don’t know what that control unit is looking for. Some cars use a data bus to control this stuff, not even sure what kind of car we are looking at here, but directly commanding the relay (between a11 and c14) takes everything but the horn relay out of the equation.
"Stephenson Valve Gear" (stephensonvalvegear)
11/27/2017 at 21:38, STARS: 2
Fuse 47 supplies the power, and itis connected to the horn relay coil on the left side of the first picture (as well as the relay contact for the horn). The horn should honk whenever the wire from A11 on down is grounded. That is all the original horn switch does. So, if you connect a new switch, One side needs to be connected to that wire, the other side needs to be connected to ground. I strongly suspect that the “Passenger’s Multiplex Control Unit” can also ground that wire for alarms, key alerts, etc. Now, this is assuming that the wires from A8 or A9 make their way directly to the horn, and don’t pass through some other control module. At least, that’s what I can tell from the pics so far...
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 21:39, STARS: 0
It’s a ‘98 Accord. So it’s just a switch that grounds the circuit when it’s closed. Also I screwed up the order of the pictures the first time. If you see “edit” in the title then they’re in the correct order now.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 21:40, STARS: 0
It wouldn’t be in series with the original one. I’d cut the original out of the circuit and put in the new switch. The original is broken so that it won’t close.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 21:41, STARS: 0
Also I put the pictures in the wrong order earlier. If you see “edit” in the title they’re in the right order.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 21:43, STARS: 0
Now I’m confused. Because since the switch does indeed ground the circuit, shouldn’t where I put the switch work?
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 21:50, STARS: 0
Should’ve mentioned. My car doesn’t have the “passenger’s multiplex control unit” it’s just the fuse box there. So since there’s not control module and just a fuse, shouldn’t my switch at J6 (other side of fuse box) have worked?
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 21:59, STARS: 0
Oh goddamit, there’s THREE light green w/blue striped wires.
Mine’s a 98 LX. So if I put the switch on the middle one that doesn’t branch out, will it work? This is just a clear picture of the top part of the third picture.
"deekster_caddy" (deekster_caddy)
11/27/2017 at 22:05, STARS: 0
If grounding before the PCMU does something different than grounding after the PCMU than you need to find out what the PCMU does in this circuit.
"deekster_caddy" (deekster_caddy)
11/27/2017 at 22:08, STARS: 0
Remember, all you are doing is grounding a relay.
"Stephenson Valve Gear" (stephensonvalvegear)
11/27/2017 at 22:11, STARS: 0
A switch anywhere on that wire, with the other side connected to ground, should work. You can test it by just connecting a jumper wire from ground to the wire and see if the horn honks.
"Stephenson Valve Gear" (stephensonvalvegear)
11/27/2017 at 22:13, STARS: 0
I should mention that I would test it with a wire from the wire connected from J6 to ground first. It is possible that your new switch is bad. I’ve seen it happen more than once...
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 22:15, STARS: 0
The switch is good, I tested it. But the switch is the ground. So wouldn’t the other side need to have power?
"Urambo Tauro" (urambotauro)
11/27/2017 at 22:23, STARS: 0
Ok, so you’re already planning to ignore what the service guy told you, then. Good. ...Well, not good for him- I’m actually rather disappointed that his advice doesn’t match what the diagram says about the circuit. I’m just glad that you know what you’re doing.
So, if you’re sure that the original switch isn’t fixable, (or that you’re not willing to fix it), wiring in a different one should be a piece of cake. The live circuit is already passing through the coil side of the horn relay, and all it needs is to touch chassis ground in some fashion to complete that circuit and energize the relay.
By installing your new switch in the same location (electrically speaking) as the old one, you won’t be disabling the cruise control like we were worried about earlier.
"Aremmes" (aremmes)
11/27/2017 at 22:24, STARS: 1
The light green/blue stripe wire IS the power (battery positive), hence why the switch needs to be the ground.
"Stephenson Valve Gear" (stephensonvalvegear)
11/27/2017 at 22:32, STARS: 0
So, power is supplied via fuse 47 from the battery. The circuit continues through the coil for the relay to the LT/GRN BLU wire. The circuit is complete when that wire is grounded... doesn’t matter if it is via a switch or a jumper wire. When that wire is grounded, it is at 0 volts, and there will be 12 volts across the horn relay coil, causing it to operate. When that wire isn’t grounded, you should be able to measure 12 volts on it. If you are using a typical aftermarket horn switch with one terminal, then the terminal on the switch should be grounded when it is pressed, but have no connection when it isn’t pressed. If there are two terminals on the switch, one will need to be connected to ground, the other to the LT/GRN BLU wire. I hope that clarifies things...
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 22:47, STARS: 0
There’s been a major update. I’m gonna make a new post about it.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 22:48, STARS: 0
There’s been a major update. I’m going to make a new post about it.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 22:49, STARS: 0
Ok that makes it clear, also there’s been a major update. I’m going to make a new post about it.