by "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
Published 11/27/2017 at 13:33
by "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
Published 11/27/2017 at 13:33
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STARS: 1
Edit: So apparently there’s TWO light green w/ blue striped wires in the same harness/bundle. A forum confirmed it’s the light green w/blue wire for the horn. But the one I wired up doesn’t get power, even with the key on. So I guess I’ll just have to try the other wire WITH THE SAME EXACT COLOR AND MARKINGS!
So I’ve definitively proven the horn switch in the steering wheel is bad. Now I just want to check with y’all to make sure I’ll be cutting the right wire to install a KUSTOM horn button/switch.
Big box on bottom left is cruise control module. small box on right is cruise control switches on the steering wheel. The small box right above that says “Horn system” and continues to horn breaker before returning to the brake switch.
So if I cut the light green/blue wire coming up from the cruise control box on the steering wheel. I won’t be fucking up anything else, like the cruise control or brake switch, will I?
Also the horn just needs to be grounded to sound. If that matters.
Thanks!
Also an update. It does have an airbag. I guess the cover just got stretched out or something so it feels like there isn’t one. Idk.
"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
11/27/2017 at 13:59, STARS: 1
Am I getting it right that there’s a ground shown in the “horn system” and the cruise borrows that ground for its own purposes? if that’s the case, cutting the light green/blue wire and grounding it shouldn’t mess up anything. Shouldn’t.
Fun fact - it used to be a thing (maybe still is) that the horn had to work even if all your other electrics were hosed, and needed a direct battery connection. You can see this on schematics out of the 50s/60s. Dedicated line from battery to relay, and from relay to button and horn, each to ground... or similar. If there’s a relay, which, sometimes there isn’t.
"sony1492" (sony1492)
11/27/2017 at 14:00, STARS: 1
The hamfisted approach would be cut the wire after the cruise control and touch a hot wire to it. If the horn goes off than you know you can install your switch, if it doesn’t than you can just wire it back to were it was. Also it will allow you to see if it messes with anything.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 14:11, STARS: 0
True, also I just need the horn for inspection. So if it messes with the cruise control, I can just put it back afterward.
"Urambo Tauro" (urambotauro)
11/27/2017 at 14:26, STARS: 1
Why do any wires need to be cut? You’ve already narrowed it down to the switch/button on the steering wheel, so why not fix that instead?
"PartyPooper2012" (PartyPooper2012)
11/27/2017 at 14:28, STARS: 0
It is definitely not the case for all cars anymore.
One of my cars disables horn once key is out. Most others, horn still works.
Also radio will at least show time even with key out.
"Urambo Tauro" (urambotauro)
11/27/2017 at 14:37, STARS: 0
I can’t tell from the pic if that’s a ground point below the words HORNS SYSTEM , or if it’s an arrow pointing to imply that there’s more to the horn circuit (not detailed in this diagram) beyond the CABLE REEL. Either way, shouldn’t that wire be exiting the CABLE REEL box like the grey one does?
"Urambo Tauro" (urambotauro)
11/27/2017 at 14:59, STARS: 1
I took a closer look at that diagram, and it appears to be incomplete. It doesn’t show the entire horn circuit. But it is showing you what’s relevant to the cruise control.
You have HOT AT ALL TIMES power coming in through that LT GRN/BLU wire. If you cut it, it won’t affect the brake switch, but you will disable both the horn and the cruise control buttons.
"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
11/27/2017 at 15:00, STARS: 0
The only four reasons I can think of for more than one wire going to the “HORN SYSTEM” are remote activation, grounding somewhere other than the column, stealing power from the horn circuit for something, or stealing ground. Remote activation is much easier to do in the chassis wiring nowhere near the column (and I think we can see exactly that), a separate/dependent ground leg for the horn would be stupid, stealing power from the horn would only make sense in the aforementioned two-wire scenario (stupid), which leaves only stealing the ground as something that makes sense. Probably.
I don’t know what else there would be to the horn circuit other than the relay, fuse, and remote activation, all of which are visible already.
If it’s a ground, it can be a simple wiper and not have to be part of the reel wiring. Most older horns are a wiper in and a wiper out, and while not including a reliable ground in the reel for the switches is a little odd, it’s not completely crazy.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 15:02, STARS: 0
It appears to be integrated into the air bag or something. The horn wire just goes into it. I can’t find a horn wire either. Google just turns up a clockspring (which is working) and Rock Auto just has the relay.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 15:04, STARS: 0
lol just learned that the hard way. Cut it and wired the switch up and everything, and it didn’t work. Continuity, but no power, even with the key on. I double checked and there’s ANOTHER light green w/ blue striped wire in the same bundle or whatever. Guess I’ll just try that and crimp the other wire back together.
"Urambo Tauro" (urambotauro)
11/27/2017 at 15:18, STARS: 1
When you cut the LT GRN/BLU wire, one of those ends went to the clockspring, while the other should have remained hot, regardless of key position. If neither end of the cut wire had power, you need to look upstream in the circuit to find where power is being lost.
That sucks, that there would be two identically-colored wires. Make sure you find the right one and follow it to a connector or someplace where you can check for power before cutting.
"Urambo Tauro" (urambotauro)
11/27/2017 at 15:20, STARS: 0
Yeah, the clockspring contains all wires for circuits on the steering wheel, except maybe ground, which likely runs through the metal of the steering column.
"Urambo Tauro" (urambotauro)
11/27/2017 at 15:30, STARS: 0
The HOT AT ALL TIMES power comes in across the coil of the horn relay, and on down the LT GRN/BLU wire. So there shouldn’t be a direct short to ground. There’s got to be a switch for the horn somewhere to touch ground, but this diagram doesn’t show it.
This diagram only seems to focus on the cruise control stuff, and if I’m reading it correctly, that voltage continues all the way to the CC buttons on the steering wheel. If one of those buttons are pressed, it sends that power through one or more circuits to the CCU.
"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
11/27/2017 at 16:52, STARS: 0
I was looking at it more or less backwards because how it was showing the horn relay hookup was a little baffling. I was reading it as hot at all times on the other side of the horn relay and running what was effectively the ground side of the relay (read: the on/off) to the horn button. But, that’s not the case - it’s just hot all the way through and feeding directly switched power on three hot legs (!) into the cruise unit from the wheel buttons, because of course it is. I mean, I guess it’s safer in that if a cruise button signal wire shorts it will pop a fuse instead of switching-via-grounding and randomly turning the cruise on. Or something.
I’m guessing that the “Horn system” is really just the button and all points south and the other light green/blue wire is the wire from the button *back* to the relay. Because why employ ground switching ever, am I right? HOT LEAD ALL THE THINGS TWO WIRES FOR ALL WOOOO
"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
11/27/2017 at 16:55, STARS: 0
As I think I understand it now, you most likely have a “horn and other stuff” power leg going to cruise and the horn button, and a “horn and only horn” line returning from the horn button. To bypass the existing horn button, you would need to *tap into* (not cut) the one with power, and put power on the other leg. Otherwise no cruise button worky.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 16:59, STARS: 0
Now that I think about it, I’m confused about a previous part. The horn sounds when the horn only wire is grounded (I know that for a fact) so then how does it have power when the switch isn’t pressed if there’s no ground?
"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
11/27/2017 at 17:06, STARS: 0
What the hell? Okay, it seems like the “horn system” may be more fucked up than I had thought. Using a loose system of description, does it sound when the chassis side of the wire is contacted, or the wheel side? If it’s the wheel side getting grounded, that may be some kind of secondary way to make the horn sound which I don’t have any idea about. If it’s the chassis side, then the “horn system” may be transistorized. Which, what the fuck, but okay.
"Urambo Tauro" (urambotauro)
11/27/2017 at 17:11, STARS: 0
Yeah, it is a bit weird. I guess I just don’t understand how the CCU works here, because in my mind, it seems like pressing ones of those cruise buttons would complete a circuit, and trip that horn relay. There must be something in there to prevent that from happening.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 17:14, STARS: 0
It’s the wheel side. When you take the airbag out you take the blade connector from the horn switch going to the clockspring and touch it to metal. It sounded when I did that.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/27/2017 at 17:21, STARS: 0
After some more research. Someone who did it on a Del Sol said you have to supply power to the switch. It doesn’t come from the wire.
Idk at this point. I posted on an Accord forum and I’m just waiting to hear back.