by "HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
Published 11/23/2017 at 21:42
by "HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
Published 11/23/2017 at 21:42
No Tags
STARS: 10
It’s not great but still.
Lessons learned:
1. My chop saw can’t cut straight for crap.
2. Filling the Gap on a sloppy fitting butt weld is not easy.
3. I need a welding table.
It’s a step... By the way... So my kids can get up to my tailgate and also to aid in loading the roof
"Poor_Sh" (ar4x)
11/23/2017 at 21:53, STARS: 2
If it works, it’s good. Looks good :)
"Urambo Tauro" (urambotauro)
11/23/2017 at 22:05, STARS: 0
Welds look good to me. Paint it!
"TrackDayIdiot" (trackdayidiot)
11/23/2017 at 23:29, STARS: 1
A fine shin buster!
"BaconSandwich is tasty." (baconsandwich)
11/24/2017 at 00:01, STARS: 0
Better looking than my welds!
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
11/24/2017 at 00:07, STARS: 0
some of the tricky ones were pretty boogery, but I was in the bacon zone most of the time and they turned out okay.
"ThePlasticOne - no diggities expressed nor implied." (theplasticone)
11/24/2017 at 00:34, STARS: 2
Hi! I teach welding for a living (I even have a Handler 120 as a backup machine).
Do not trust a metal chop saw to cut straight; the physics are almost always against it (and really, pretty much every saw deflects in some way). Even the nice cutoff wheels deflect before and during the cut.
Tips, tricks, and knowledge:
1. Very light pressure on the cut; let the blade do the work. Leaning/pulling will cause deflection, both in the cutting wheel itself and possibly the work surface. If your muscles start to tense up, you’re putting too much pressure on. Leaning/pulling will also lead to you...
2. Check the slop in your tool. Every bolt, pin, and hinge might have some play that compound into errors, and your cutting posture might not help. Also ensure that your cutoff wheel is truly square to the work surface and that the clamp is truly zero’d (and account for some slop in the clamp when cutting force is applied, as well). Ensure that the blade nut/bolt is torqued to spec.
3. Even accounting for all that, the blade is a solid, lightweight, and relatively flexible object being spun by the force of at least two horses. It is not going to retain its form while experiencing centripedal/fugal forces, so by the time it touches metal the outer edge may not be aligned with the eye. Additionally, most consumer blades are “functional cut” - essentially a rough, coarse grain, equivalent to a hand saw. There are finer/different wheels out there that don’t mess with the material as much and require little to no cleaning. Some of those blades will give you a near-mirror polish, the cut is so fine. Bonus: since the entire wheel abrades, don’t forget that the blade becomes imperceptibly thinner as it is used, so each subsequent kerf (cut width) is smaller. Again, you’ll never notice without some calipers, but something to think about. Also bonus: like a rotor, the cutting surface may develop some imperfections, and/or repeated improper use can cause it to warp. You can’t get these things turned.
4. Heat soak at the cut end may cause mild warping. Also, if you cut hard/slow enough to create a significant amount of slag, removal of that will also affect your edge.
5. Cut large, sand down. This is why circular sanders and miter gauges exist.
Your penetration seems good. I’m sure there’s more work to be done, but of course you should ideally cap the step and make sure your welds go all the way around.
"XJDano" (xjdano)
11/24/2017 at 07:05, STARS: 0
Shin destroyer
"RacinBob" (racinbob)
11/24/2017 at 09:35, STARS: 3
Not a handle so you can pick up and move your truck easier?
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
11/24/2017 at 11:33, STARS: 0
I am step, destroyer of shin
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
11/24/2017 at 11:36, STARS: 0
well AND that...obviously.