Confession: My MR2 Suspension is Pretty Bad

Kinja'd!!! by "way2blu does a rev update" (way2blu)
Published 11/19/2017 at 17:19

Tags: Toyota MR2 ; Suspension
STARS: 0


Kinja'd!!!

My shocks are apparently dead and I guess I just have nonexistent standards for “ride quality.” These rubber suspension mounts are shot too. What’s the best replacement?

Basically I can either try to find factory-spec replacement parts, or go aftermarket. My mechanic told me that coilovers might actually be cheaper and simpler than trying to source a factory setup.

Advantages of each:

Factory-Spec Parts

Preserves “stock” status and maybe resale value too

Still get to compete in stock autocross classes

Might be a comfier ride

Coilovers

More options on the market

Adjustability

Comprehensive — the right set will replace the cracked rubber mounts too

Ease of install

Parameters:

I’m just hoping for a less bouncy ride. I’ve had trouble finding any factory-spec replacement parts on the internet. While it would be nice to keep it “100% stock,” I don’t know if that’s worth the extra time or money. What’s the smoothest way forward?


Replies (11)

Kinja'd!!! "Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo" (rustyvandura)
11/19/2017 at 17:23, STARS: 1

How about direct-replacement struts from KYB? Pop out the entire strut and replace it with the KYB unit. Opinions are mixed about that option, but the simplicity of it is pretty hard to beat.

Kinja'd!!! "way2blu does a rev update" (way2blu)
11/19/2017 at 17:27, STARS: 0

Do they make the replacement rubber mounts too? That’d be much cheaper than even a coilover setup.

Kinja'd!!! "AestheticsInMotion" (aestheticsinmotion)
11/19/2017 at 17:34, STARS: 0

Stock replacements you more or less know what you’re getting. Coilovers... I don’t know what the available options are like for the mr2 but I’d imagine there’s a somewhat wide range of options from bone-crushing Chinese junk to on-the-fly adjustable duel spring setups with race data to back up claims.

Basically do research and don’t cheap out haha

Kinja'd!!! "Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo" (rustyvandura)
11/19/2017 at 17:36, STARS: 2

Kinja'd!!!

Here’s an exploded view of a typical McPherson strut. The rubber mount you’re talking about is in the middle of what I’ve always called the “strut mount,” called a “Suspension Support” near the top right of this diagram. That part holds the entire strut together and keeps tension on the spring when the car is off the ground. It also contains a ball bearing that the entire strut pivots upon when you steer the car. Yes, you can replace only the mount, and those are generally readily available, but you have to remove the strut, compress the springs, and disassemble the entire assembly. I’ve done so a number of times and it’s doable, but hard work and no task for a beginner (if that’s what you are). And it can be downright dangerous. Replacing the entire strut as a package is much easier and safer, though as I stated in my original post, folks’ opinions are mixed about using them. I have always stuck by KYB brand for shocks and struts and that’s the only way I’d go, personally.

Kinja'd!!! "Nauraushaun" (nauraushaun12)
11/19/2017 at 18:22, STARS: 0

Be wary of the aftermarket route ;) Lots of people claim aftermarket stuff is better , when they really mean stiffer . Not the same.

Kinja'd!!! "Highlander-Datsuns are Forever" (jamesbowland)
11/19/2017 at 18:43, STARS: 0

As mentioned the KYB assemblies are a solid choice.

Kinja'd!!! "rockingthe2" (unpredictable-swerve)
11/19/2017 at 19:31, STARS: 0

Alex w custom coils made from koni yellows and your stock suspension, or kw v3's. Keeping your stock setup, koni yellows and trd springs.

Kinja'd!!! "just-a-scratch" (just-a-scratch)
11/19/2017 at 19:53, STARS: 0

Whichever direction you go, make sure you get springs and dampers configured to work together.

Too often people will try to use a good shock with a nice spring, but the sring is stiff and the damper is valved for more wheel movement (or some other mismatch) and the car is oversprung, consequently bucking as it hits a bump. Maybe worse is the over damped situation; the car is harsh on bumps but wallows through corners.

Kinja'd!!! "beardsbynelly - Rikerbeard" (beardsbynelly-Rikerbeard)
11/19/2017 at 21:00, STARS: 0

the factory units were manufactured by KYB, so just get the replacement factory spec from Rock-auto.

they have the front upper mounts for ~$50 each, and the KYB excel-G struts are about $40 each.

I can’t see rear upper mounts listed on rockauto at the moment though, lithiatoyotaparts has OEM mounts for about $160 each.

That said, if your upper mounts are shagged and your struts are shot then the rest of your bushings are probably on the way out too. Enjoy getting OEM spec for anything other than a kidney.

Kinja'd!!! "Thatredcar" (thatredcar)
11/19/2017 at 23:22, STARS: 1

I noticed the call for KYB shocks. Remember that your OEM KYB struts will be different than a generic KYB shock you can buy for your car. Internally the shocks are different and will thus preform differently. It’s the same brand, but different shock. I would personally go down the route of a Bilstein B6 or Koni Sport shock, the ride will not be that much harsher, but the dampening will be improved.

Kinja'd!!! "e36Jeff now drives a ZHP" (e36jeff)
12/10/2017 at 10:46, STARS: 0

I’d go with either this or a coil over. Whatever extra cost may be incurred by going the coilover route is worth it to not have to fuck with spring compressors. I am perfectly willing to do virtually any repair job on a car, but using spring compressors still scare the crap out of me. I’m just glad I only need the compressors to do my front shocks, so I only have to be terrified twice when replacing them. Also, a quality set of adjustable coilovers set to full soft will be damn close to the stock ride quality.

As an aside, you might want to check out your other suspension bushings, because now is the time to be replacing them, since several may require you to drop the shock assemblies in the first place. And given that your mounts are shot, it wouldn’t be surprising if your bushings are as well. If you do go down that path, I would recommend polyurethane bushings if available, they have less flex and a much better service life, just make sure you give them a good coating of copper anti-seize so they won’t squeak.