by "Full of the sound of the Gran Fury, signifying nothing." (granfury)
Published 11/15/2017 at 19:00
by "Full of the sound of the Gran Fury, signifying nothing." (granfury)
Published 11/15/2017 at 19:00
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STARS: 1
Like many a cheap car, my Mazda5 is a little noisier inside than I would like. I’m assuming this stuff would be a solution to this problem, but I have a few questions. First, of course, is whether this stuff actually works...
From what I’ve read, the best bang for the buck is to do the firewall, the front doors and around the driver and passenger seats, with diminishing returns from doing the rest of the vehicle. Is this accurate?
Since I really hate crawling around under the dash, I would prefer to outsource this to someone else to do, which I assume would be a car audio shop. What would be the expected cost, parts and labor, assuming the coverage as detailed in the previous paragraph?
How heavy is it? It’s not like my car has a whole lot of power to spare, so I’d like to keep the weight increase to a minimum. Is the additional weight worth the noise reduction?
I just want a quieter, more relaxing car. In the past I used to do all sorts of crazy audio systems with multiple amps and crossovers and equalizers and stuff, but these days I’m content with the factory head unit and the upgraded Polk speakers I installed (although I still want a sub). I plan on keeping this car forever, so making it a little more comfortable and livable are my main goals, and if it makes it a better listening room because of this I will have no objections.
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
11/15/2017 at 19:05, STARS: 1
depends on the noise. If its rattle or a “tinnyness” then it helps if stratigic. I did it to my 1st gen rav4 and it just made it slower.
"benjrblant" (benjblant)
11/15/2017 at 19:06, STARS: 6
Dynamat is really to reduce vibrations of the sheet metal. If you’re looking to insulate against noise and heat, you’d need to add something like dynaliner on top of the dynamat.
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
11/15/2017 at 19:08, STARS: 1
This.
"wafflesnfalafel" (wafflesnfalafel1)
11/15/2017 at 19:17, STARS: 0
Coincidentally, my father in law’s neighbor did that with his 3rd gen Rav4 - he had a shop do it, spent a good bit of coin, not sure if he was satisfied. Both my folks and mother in law’s Rav4s are a bit tinny but not really any more than many vehicles, (like that Mazda5, my old Mazda3 hatch, my current Subaru, etc.)
"boxrocket" (boxrocket)
11/15/2017 at 19:32, STARS: 4
Spray the outside body panels with expanding-foam insulation. Not only will it diminish NVH, it will improve climate control functionality, and you’ll worry less about door dings and low-speed impacts. Plus your car will be easily found in the parking lot. Finally, it’s somewhat fire-resistant, so that’s a potential positive! It will be a fun project for the whole family carving out the door handles and making room for tje doors to open.
"CaptDale - is secretly British" (captdale)
11/15/2017 at 19:34, STARS: 1
I have the stuff as a noise and insulator for my healey to replace the horrible stuff they had on there before. I know it won’t help with much with heat, but tininess and overall satisfaction with my build it should help.
"Takuro Spirit" (takurospirit)
11/15/2017 at 19:38, STARS: 1
I bought a bunch of cheap knock off stuff on eBay once and did this:
I have no idea if it helped, because I didn’t have a direct comparison. I mostly did it so the tunes sounded good. Though when I added louder exhaust it was damn hard to hear from in the cabin, so I guess it did something?
"jimz" (jimz)
11/15/2017 at 19:48, STARS: 8
we use that in the OEM world; it’s called “mastic.” It works, but Dynamat charges insane prices for what is basically cheap shit; $200 for a few 18"x 32" sheets is basically sodomy. I’ve got about a dozen 3' x 3' sheets of it in a cabinet at work which was basically gratis because the supplier didn’t want to carry it back.
use this stuff instead:
https://www.parts-express.com/sonic-barrier-lightweight-vinyl-sound-damping-sheet-27-x-40—268-035
mass-loaded vinyl sheet is a limp barrier (non-resonant sound blocker) which adds mass/damping to resonant sheet metal surfaces and provides noise blocking. I replaced the flimsy plastic film door water shields in my Ranger with this stuff and it made a huge difference. we built a reference listening room at work and incorporated this stuff into the walls. it’s about 1 lb per sq. ft.
there’s no reason to bend over and let Dynamat stick it up your poop chute.
"random001" (random001)
11/15/2017 at 19:57, STARS: 1
Came here to say this. Glad I don’t have to.
"The Snowman" (the-snowman)
11/15/2017 at 21:23, STARS: 2
Also you don’t need to cover entire panels to help with sound.
"Frank Grimes" (FrankGrimes)
11/15/2017 at 21:38, STARS: 0
I have heard that you only need to cover like 50% of the surface. Don’t know if it’s true or not.
I used this stuff on my cars designed for water proofing roofs i think and compared it to some stuff designed for sound dampening and it was identical.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Peel-Seal-Instant-Waterproof-Repairs-6-in-x-25-ft-Aluminum-Roll-Flashing/1018733
I wish there was some way of actually measuring the panels in a car to see if adding dampening crap would help. I guess it would be some vibrating thing and a microphone or something to measure the frequency.
"random001" (random001)
11/15/2017 at 21:40, STARS: 1
True. The weight it damping the vibration, so really just stick in in the middle of the panel.
"Frank Grimes" (FrankGrimes)
11/15/2017 at 21:42, STARS: 2
thats what rednecks do pros rhino line the whole car. who doesn’t like destroying all exterior design with lumpy flat black rubber.
"Thatredcar" (thatredcar)
11/15/2017 at 21:55, STARS: 1
Buy the stuff from home depot they use on roofs, it’s the exact same thing. Than buy some carpet padder from a local carpet store, it should cost less than $50 everything.