by "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
Published 11/10/2017 at 16:15
by "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
Published 11/10/2017 at 16:15
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No update to the cost, because I didn’t have to spend any money!
I cleaned the EGR valve, no pictures, the passages looked fine but I scraped them a little any ways. Afterwards I drove it around for a little bit to get everything up to temp, but didn’t take it up to highway speeds because of the condition of the tires. Afterwards pulled into autozone and got the codes pulled and no EGR code! Since I didn’t drive it a whole lot really or get it up to highway speeds I can’t really determine if it’s actually fixed or not, but I’m hoping so.
Also its a F23A1 for those that want to know. Apparently it doesn’t have the little plate of passages on the IM, only one. But I don’t think that the rubber hose going to it is coming off without being cut. Besides the passages near the valve itself looked alright so I don’t think that’s the issue. The valve was pretty bad, but I cleaned that up.
The other thing I did was take the intake off and put JB weld were it broke. I don’t think this first go will seal it, but I’ll go over it again with some more and maybe that’ll solve that issue.
Also to clear the codes I had to pull a fuse, and saw this.
WHAT THE FUCK!? How does this even happen? I can only imagine someone taking a tiny hammer and wacking the fuses. But oh well.
"interstate366, now In The Industry" (interstate366)
11/10/2017 at 16:22, STARS: 0
how
how
Glad you’re fixing it for cheap, though.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/10/2017 at 16:26, STARS: 0
Instead of removing the fuel rail I just removed what I think is the VTEC solenoid and was able to access the second nut from the side.
I just used a screwdriver and brake cleaner on the EGR valve. Got it pretty clean.
"interstate366, now In The Industry" (interstate366)
11/10/2017 at 16:33, STARS: 0
Ah, nice. The VTEC solenoid on an H-series is between the fuel rail and the distributor. Not quite sure if it’s in the same place on F’s as the only F I’ve owned was pre-VTEC.
"RacinBob" (racinbob)
11/10/2017 at 19:12, STARS: 1
Congrats on the progress.
You may find that the AF code will go away if cleared. Our ‘02 Si would throw a code sometimes on cold mornings. I’d clear it and it would go away for a while. It’s just a sign that the O2 sensor is old and is no longer heating up as fast as needed.
Depending on the cracks on the intake, I might not be crazy about using JB weld if there is any chance of it being sucked into the engine. I would suggest using Loctite S3o as it is basically liquid rubber. It makes an excellent glue and/or sealant.
I wouldn’t worry too much about that hose. It is upstream of the throttle so an leaks do not affect performance. All it does is let a bit of unfiltered air in.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
11/10/2017 at 20:58, STARS: 0
You’re right. I thought the code had something to do with the intake, it is indeed the O2 sensor. I need to get the car registered soon so I’ll probably need to fix that before getting it inspected. Should be easy though and it’s easy to test the sensor apparently.
"RacinBob" (racinbob)
11/11/2017 at 10:25, STARS: 0
Oh, maybe yes, maybe no. If the heater or sensor circuit is open or out of range, then it is the sensor. That’s easy to ID.
But if it is what I think it is, it’s harder to test than you think. My bet is the sensor heater is fine, but the O2 sensor has become less sensitive and just doesn’t consistently start working within the prescribed time. Hence you can clear the code and it goes away for a while until it comes back. One fix for that is buy a scanner and clear it whenever it sets a fault.
If that is what it is doing, then you can’t prove it but chances are if you replace the sensor the problem goes away.
It will probably be a SOB to break it free. So be prepared to have to go to a shop to get it changed.