by "xsnowpig" (xsnowpig)
Published 10/11/2017 at 21:01
by "xsnowpig" (xsnowpig)
Published 10/11/2017 at 21:01
No Tags
STARS: 1
dropped the trans pan on my 96 Chevy plow truck, a 4l60 auto, for fluid and filter change. fluid was way burnt brown. no real shiny sparkles or solids in the drained fluid that i could see. new bright red ATF in after uneventful reassemble. going to shift like a new trans, right? now reverse is delayed and definitely not feeling like a solid engagement. fluid level is spot on according to the dipstick and proper check procedure.
i can’t believe that i’m now one of those guys who thinks that old fluid might be best left alone and if it ain’t broke don’t mess with it.
maybe i should have gotten another Ford- my mustang for your time spent here.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
10/11/2017 at 21:16, STARS: 3
The fact preventative maintenance can run ATs, is proof that god intended everything to be manual.
"for Michigan" (formichigan)
10/11/2017 at 21:24, STARS: 2
Based on his description, it doesn’t sound like it’s been properly maintained to me.
"Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo" (thetomselleck)
10/11/2017 at 21:46, STARS: 2
Yeah, my thing is that if you have a high mileage vehicle with an AT, and you cannot confirm the last time it’s been serviced — if ever —, never touch it.
"Jordan and the Slowrunner, Boomer Intensifies" (jordanwphillips)
10/11/2017 at 22:01, STARS: 2
The 4L60 is set to break straight from the factory.
"Tohru" (tohrurokuno)
10/11/2017 at 22:12, STARS: 1
put in a bottle of friction modifier
"merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc" (merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc)
10/11/2017 at 22:17, STARS: 1
We’ve had good luck with the lube guard stuff. It unsticks stuck solenoids and has helped a couple transmissions that wouldn’t shift out of limp mode to work again.
"merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc" (merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc)
10/11/2017 at 22:25, STARS: 1
I have 170k+ on my dakotas 46re that typically grenade before 70k, but I have been vigilant to change fluid between 25-35k intervals. It’s a bit sloppier nowadays, but with the mileage, I can’t say I’m unhappy. My rule of thumb is if it hasn’t been touched in over 100k miles, then leave it be, but if it’s been serviced at or before the 100k mark, then put in new fluid and filter. If the trans is damaged by burning the fluid or trashing the clutches, new fluid might not be the best option, as the crap that floating in their might be keeping it all working, but it’s on borrowed time.
Try the lube guard stuff, at this point, not much to lose at this point.
"Urambo Tauro" (urambotauro)
10/11/2017 at 22:44, STARS: 1
I’m getting ready to drain the 4L60E on my ’95 truck soon. It’s got harsh forward engagement and I want to look around behind the pan, check out the solenoids and try to see if the valve body has been modified at all. After reading this, I’m going to take extra care to clean my drain pans so that I can save the old fluid, just in case I need it later.
"Steve in Manhattan" (blogenfreude01)
10/11/2017 at 22:58, STARS: 1
At this point you’ve broken the 7th seal, or whatever ... might as well take it to a shop and have them do the full suction it out w/ the custom machine, then replace. That’ll get all the crud.
"AMGtech - now with more recalls!" (amgtech)
10/12/2017 at 01:54, STARS: 0
Then it was already on it’s last legs. I’d try an additive or two, such as Lucas or LubeGard.
"gmctavish needs more space" (gmctavish)
10/12/2017 at 11:37, STARS: 0
I had a slipping 4L60E, likely internal seals drying out according to my mechanic, added some stop-slip from I can’t remember what brand, maybe Gunk or Lucas, and it made a difference. I drove it for another 6 months and sold it to a friend who says it’s still shifting alright and not slipping.