by "Decay buys too many beaters" (decay)
Published 10/11/2017 at 15:50
by "Decay buys too many beaters" (decay)
Published 10/11/2017 at 15:50
No Tags
STARS: 2
I spent last night working on my new garage sale Honda Aero. I was able to get it to run, but the starter, headlight, and dash lights were not working. I solved the starter issue pretty easily, dirty button plus improperly pinned connector on the wiring harness.
The lighting issues were a little more annoying. I quickly noticed after going over the wiring diagram, that all the lights were on the same circuit. I checked each wire for continuity first and didn’t find any issues. Next. I turned the bike on and tested for 12v at each light point, nothing, no voltage. I spent a few hours checking all the other pinouts in the wiring harness, but didn’t find any issue.
It was about this time that I pulled one of the dash lights and replaced with a similar one I had in the garage. Cranked the motor and it lit right up. Confused, I looked back over the wiring diagram and noticed that the whole lighting circuit runs AC :/
I’d been testing for DC...
So in the end it turned out that 4 lights on the same circuit all simultaneously burned out, that I’d shrugged off as impossible at the beginning of troubleshooting, was actually the problem.
"cmill189 - sans Volvo" (cmill189)
10/11/2017 at 16:09, STARS: 1
But that’s the fun! lol. I wonder if this scooter is similar to old Vespa AC systems. The ones that ran with no battery were self-regulated by the bulb wattage. If you let one bulb be dead long enough, it would start eating the rest. They are extremely simple and reliable, as long as all the bulbs are installed and the correct wattage.
"Decay buys too many beaters" (decay)
10/11/2017 at 16:15, STARS: 1
Good to know! Have a Stella 2t in the garage as well that probably has that system.
In the case of the Honda, it does have a voltage regulator that keeps AC voltage below 14V, I believe the blow was caused by the missed pin on the starter button wiring harness. It tied the ground to the turn signal circuit, haven’t traced it all the way back yet though.
And yeah, I did have fun, actually learned a ton about the electrical system of these I didn’t know before despite owning 3 prior.
"gogmorgo - rowing gears in a Grand Cherokee" (gogmorgo)
10/11/2017 at 16:49, STARS: 2
My Saturday was spent replacing the blower motor and vent controls in the Niva. I got everything back together and got nothing out of the fan. It was getting dark and my garage lighting sucks so I gave up in disgust.
Monday I got back to it. The wire colours had been reversed from the terminals (black and blue wires, originally the black had a ring and the blue was the spade but the new fan was opposite) so the first thing I did was reverse them, and got nothing again. So then I put it back to the way it had been. Still nothing. Figure I must have blown something by having them reversed. Pull out the voltmeter, go through the diagnostic procedure, everything checks out. Takes about an hour to get to this point.
I pull it apart, and it turns out the rubber gasket around the heater core that holds it in place has disintegrated, and pushing the fan housing/manifold back up into it caused it to let go, and the heater core has fallen down into the fan and stopped it from turning.
It takes about 30 seconds to unclip and drop the fan box and five minutes to replicate the gasket and keep the core in place. Two minutes to put it back together. Something about simple solutions to obvious problems.
"Decay buys too many beaters" (decay)
10/11/2017 at 17:13, STARS: 0
Good god, let me guess, the original blower motor works perfectly too?
"gogmorgo - rowing gears in a Grand Cherokee" (gogmorgo)
10/11/2017 at 22:03, STARS: 0
Well it works but the bearings are lunched. From the Retreat from Moscow:
!!! UNKNOWN CONTENT TYPE !!!