by "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
Published 10/07/2017 at 13:10
by "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
Published 10/07/2017 at 13:10
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Question about suspension stuffs.
So I need to replace the trailing arm bushing on the Integra (The big one near the toe arm)
Here’s a quick video about how to replace it, but I think I can explain it more concisely with words.
(Actually I’ll admit, the video’s faster. Just need to watch the part about clocking the bushing. It’s already set to play from there.)
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So you measure how far the bushings sticking out and then clock it by putting a ruler on the part that bolts to the chassis and marking that angle, so you can put the new one in the same way. However you do this with the suspension together and weighted. Then, if doing it with the special Honda tool/press, you disconnect the trailing arm from everything except the hub and the replace the bushing. Or the way I’ll be doing it, taking the trailing arm completely off the car.
My question is . Why would you put the bushing in at the angle it’s at with the suspension weighted, when you’ll be putting the bushing in without any weight on the suspension?
Because assuming the angle changes when the weight’s off it. Shouldn’t you put the bushing in the way the original one is unweighted so that it deflects to the correct position when weighted? Because if you put it in at the angle it’s at weighted, but put the bushing in unweighted won’t it deflect and be off?
And if the angle doesn’t change then why does everyone say you need to clock the bushing with the car on the ground? (weighted)
"nafsucof" (galinskiomatic)
10/07/2017 at 13:34, STARS: 1
I feel like you can skip doing it while it’s weighted and just disassemble the lower arm and mark where it’s clocked. It apparently didn’t move once it was disconnected completely. That line will help you get it right but I think you can just draw the line before you remove the old one.
"MKVJunkle" (mkvjunkle)
10/07/2017 at 15:46, STARS: 1
Odds are you aren’t anywhere near me, but I figured I’d at least mention I have the tool for this. Haven’t owned the car in years but I still have the tool if you need it.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
10/07/2017 at 15:48, STARS: 0
I’m in San Antonio, and thanks for the offer! Thankfully a shop down the street said they’ll put in the new one if I bring it to them. Can’t imagine they’ll charge more than $20.
"MKVJunkle" (mkvjunkle)
10/07/2017 at 16:03, STARS: 0
Ha! Tulsa would be a bit far just to borrow a tool. I would go with the guys down the street as well. Good luck!
"RacinBob" (racinbob)
10/07/2017 at 19:53, STARS: 2
Get the clock orientation correct and the depth correct while off the car. Close is good enough.
I call that the “wonder” bushing. If you lay underneath the car and look at it long enough, you realize it controls motion in all dimensions including rotation, Yaw, in and out and front and back. It really is a wonder and one heck of of a suspension. PS. the cat’s meow for racing is the monoball bushing. Makes a huge improvement in rear end stability in racing.
"RacinBob" (racinbob)
10/07/2017 at 19:57, STARS: 0
Overkill for the street but awesome for the track - Found it https://frsport.com/88-00-Civic-94-01-Integra-88-91-CRX-Honda-Trailing-Arm-Spherical-Kit_p_460853.html?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIv9LUkNvf1gIVAg5pCh0TigA7EAkYEiABEgJVJ_D_BwE
"RacinBob" (racinbob)
10/07/2017 at 19:57, STARS: 0
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
10/07/2017 at 20:02, STARS: 0
Maybe one day, when hopefully I can turn it into a autox/track car.
"uofime-2" (uofime-2)
10/09/2017 at 15:17, STARS: 0
in general you want to torque suspension bushings with the suspension at ride height otherwise you will cause binding of the joint which will make terrible clunking noises until it works itself out and can potentially ruin the joint.