by "Pabuuu, JDM car enthusiast & Italian parts hoarder" (pabuuu4)
Published 09/26/2017 at 07:19
by "Pabuuu, JDM car enthusiast & Italian parts hoarder" (pabuuu4)
Published 09/26/2017 at 07:19
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Going to take a look at the Alfa 156 1.8 of a friend of a friend.
From the start, this car looks like a bad idea. But, I see potential for some fun.
it is a 2000 Alfa Romeo 156 1.8t, it has been sitting for 2 months, it has 285.000 km, and supposedly the only thing it needs for the inspection is a wheel bearing.
Best part? he is selling for 400 euros, possibly even less. So, my plan is to fix it up and sell it, possibly break even (with taxes and insurance on top) or if it breaks before that time, partially part it out. (interior, wheels, other parts)
Is a wheel bearing a do able DIY job? is generally similar among cars or is it a very model specific install?
"PatBateman" (PatBateman)
09/26/2017 at 07:32, STARS: 0
Is the job doable? Yes. Will you need specialized equipment like one-off sized tools? ¯\_()_/¯
"pip bip - choose Corrour" (hhgttg69)
09/26/2017 at 07:34, STARS: 0
shouldn’t be that hard to do.
good luck!
keeps informed as to how it goes.
"duurtlang" (duurtlang)
09/26/2017 at 07:58, STARS: 0
Some very quick googling told me it’s easier to simply change the wheel hub. Parts costs are reasonable I guess. Certainly looks like something you can do yourself. Example (front axle) http://www.mister-auto.nl/fl/wielnaaf/snr-r160-25_g653_a110R160.25.html
Very quick guide (rear axle):
http://www.alfaworkshop.co.uk/156-147-GT-rear-wheel-bearing.shtml
Be sure to check some buyers guides before you go there. Ignore some of the stuff in those guides, given the 400 euros asking price (Panel gaps? Who cares?), but other parts might be relevant. http://www.alfaworkshop.co.uk/alfa_156_buyers.shtml
I believe the suspension of these cars is a constant wear item. It’s calibrated in such a way it’s very fun to drive but it wears certain parts out relatively quickly. Shouldn’t be too problematic or costly, but if you want it to pass inspection it should be something to look at.
Disclaimer: I’ve never driven one.
"BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires" (biturbo228)
09/26/2017 at 09:43, STARS: 1
Neat! I can say he won’t be disappointed :) they’re great cars. Is it the T-Spark, or does the ‘t’ denote a turbo version I wasn’t previously aware of?
Haven’t done a wheel bearing on mine yet, but I have had to do work that’s involved cracking the big driveshaft nut. Seem to remember to get the right size impact socket in I needed to grind down the outer face of it so it’d fit, but other than that it was straight forwards (and you might be able to find a socket that’s thin enough wall to do without that).
I would really recommend a good hydraulic puller. It’s basically a bottle-jack with a puller attached to it and it’s worth its weight in gold (and not too expensive either if I remember rightly).
Also worth its weight in gold is one of these: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-pcs-Bearing-Splitter-Gear-Puller-Fly-Wheel-Separator-Set-Tool-Kit-UK-/252094632756?hash=item3ab202d334:g:e~AAAOSwEetV-pW2
A proper bolt-together puller is pretty damn cheap as far as tools go and is also worth its weight in gold. You can probably do without the hydraulic one if you have one of those.
Other things to watch out for are rust on the floorpans where garage monkeys jack on the sills rather than the dedicated jacking point just in front of them (happened to mine, had to do a fair amount of welding because of some morons in a garage). Front anti-roll bar bushes are a bit of a ballache as they go above the front subframe and it’s a fairly big job to get it out (they’re bonded to the ARB, so even if you want to replace them with split ones you need to get it out). I’d expect a car with that sort of mileage to have had them replaced at some point though.
Errr, not sure what else really. Alternator was a bastard job on mine but that’s because it’s the V6 and there’s no space to work, and I’m fairly certain that was caused by running it with a dead battery for too long so the alternator was running away at full tilt for months (was the voltage regulator that let go). A 4-cyl should be much better. If it wavers around the idle rather than settling try whipping out the MAF sensor (attached through the side of a little plastic tube just above the airbox) and squirting it with a bit of electrical contacts cleaner (something like isopropyl alcohol that won’t leave a residue, so not WD40) as they sometimes get gummed up from the PCV system (happened once on mine in the time I’ve owned it, but took a while to diagnose). T-Sparks are early cars too so should only have the one O2 sensor rather than the 3 of later cars so if that goes it’ll be a much cheaper fix.
There was something else about T-Sparks having timing belt tensioner woes (maybe caused by plastic parts?), but again if it’s made it that mileage without succumbing it’s probably been replaced with better kit.
That’s about it really. Mine’s been really rather solid for the time I’ve owned it (getting on for 7 years now).
Anything else just let me know :)