by "JawzX2, Boost Addict. 1.6t, 2.7tt, 4.2t" (jawzx2)
Published 09/07/2017 at 19:19
by "JawzX2, Boost Addict. 1.6t, 2.7tt, 4.2t" (jawzx2)
Published 09/07/2017 at 19:19
Tags: Tractorlopnik
STARS: 4
it only took four days....
!!! UNKNOWN CONTENT TYPE !!!
"Urambo Tauro" (urambotauro)
09/07/2017 at 19:51, STARS: 0
Ha-ha! Yes!
just re-wired a bunch of crap
So were you able to narrow down the culprit, or did the drain just kinda go away as you started re-wiring things?
"JawzX2, Boost Addict. 1.6t, 2.7tt, 4.2t" (jawzx2)
09/07/2017 at 20:04, STARS: 1
there was a harness connector where one of the leads was backed out of the socket and protruding far enough that it could be shorting on something... I fixed that, and a bunch of other stuff... that made the key-not-inserted drain go away. But it was still refusing to start, so I opened up the starter motor and blew out about a 1/4 cup of carbon dust from the brush cover, also lubed the plunger in the solenoid and the starter bearings, and now it’s hard to believe the thing is 30 years old, it fires *INSTANTLY* (I think the starter was probably not spinning at full speed) and the dash lights work, and the after-market volt-meter I installed says the alternator is producing 14+ Volts, but the idiot light doesn’t go out... fuckit. The system voltage is appropriate, I’ll ignore the idiot light. It might have something to do with the fact that I removed the original factory voltage regulator, since it now has a GM-style three-wire internally regulated alternator.