by "Svend" (svend)
Published 08/31/2017 at 13:35
by "Svend" (svend)
Published 08/31/2017 at 13:35
Tags: detailing
STARS: 3
303 Aerospace Protectant, awesome for post engine bay cleaning, dressing.
Gtechniq C6ab Matte Dash, post interior cleaning, dressing and restorer. Leaves a great lustre, natural look, UV protection, also anti bacterial, etc...
Gyeon Cure, fantastic quick detailer, stand alone sealant and drying aid.
Gyeon Bathe+, car shampoo with Si02 based sealant built in. Like wash’n’wax but soooo much better and lasting.
"CalzoneGolem" (calzonegolem)
08/31/2017 at 13:45, STARS: 1
You’re a maniac. I washed Forest by hand for the first time last week and I’ve owned it a year. My son got really into it so I’ll probably do it more often. The Soul could use a good drenching.
"Svend" (svend)
08/31/2017 at 13:51, STARS: 1
I know.
Washing the car I find therapeutic but also fun and bonding for parents and children.
I had to rein myself in from buying a few other things that I don’t immediately need because I have some left.
"Svend" (svend)
08/31/2017 at 14:03, STARS: 0
How old is your son?
A dedicated snow foam lance and pressure washer can be awesome fun.
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There is a three year old girl across the way who comes out just to watch me foam the car.
"CalzoneGolem" (calzonegolem)
08/31/2017 at 14:08, STARS: 1
He’s 7. We were discussing the finer points of the two bucket method. I’d love a foam cannon, but who wouldn’t?
"Dave the car guy , still here" (a3dave)
08/31/2017 at 14:12, STARS: 1
Love the 303 Protectant just avoid using on top of any dash pad. It will make it repel dust but also will have blinding glare even on most matte finish vinyls. Great for the rest of the interior, weatherstrips and engine detailing.
"Svend" (svend)
08/31/2017 at 14:16, STARS: 0
They are fun.
The two bucket method when coming from the single bucket method is like night and day.
Shampoo bucket post wash
Rinse bucket post wash
A grit guard in the bottom of the rinse bucket is also a great idea, I use one in each bucket, because I’m me. Lol.
"Svend" (svend)
08/31/2017 at 14:28, STARS: 0
I have different products for each plastics and areas.
303 Aerospace Protectant for engine bays.
Gtechniq C6ab Matte Dash for interior plastic dressing. It gives a new car lustre as if it came off the factory floor.
Adam’s Undercarriage spray for wheel arches.
"Dave the car guy , still here" (a3dave)
08/31/2017 at 14:32, STARS: 1
Need to look for the matte dash stuff. I’ve just always used other brand interior protectants watered down 50/50 per an old detailer friends instructions.
"Svend" (svend)
08/31/2017 at 14:42, STARS: 1
It’s good stuff.
Often Gtechniq I2ab will leave a good lustre.
But it’s an all surface (plastic, leather, fabric, etc...) cleaner that also has anti bacterial qualities too.
"someassemblyrequired" (someassemblyrequired)
08/31/2017 at 14:51, STARS: 0
Have an old MX-5 that it looks like a leaf ate into the clearcoat slightly. Yes, I am a bad owner. It had hazed a bit, which I was able to clean up, but there’s a visible change in elevation where the leaf had sat. Is there a good product to level out the finish? I was thinking of trying out a glaze prior to wax, but wasn’t sure it would make any difference.
"Svend" (svend)
08/31/2017 at 14:59, STARS: 0
Try a finishing polish that may cure any slight hazing which may be due to the polishing removal of the leaf.
Personally I’d give it a good compound polish and then refine, the damage is similar to ghosting from a baked on bird bomb.
The compound needs to be followed with refining with a lighter polish or you’ll get flat spots as the compound is an aggressive polish which will remove scratches but leave micromarring behind.
A glaze may mask it from a shorter distance.
"someassemblyrequired" (someassemblyrequired)
08/31/2017 at 22:12, STARS: 0
Yep the finishing polish worked surprisingly well, I was a little worried about using to aggressive a polish as the paint finish on MX-5's scratches so easily. I may try the compounding polish if I work up the nerve, but I’ll probably try glaze and a good wax and see if that works first. Thanks for your help (again)!
"Svend" (svend)
08/31/2017 at 22:22, STARS: 1
Do you know anyone who may have a paint depth gauge? The depth of clearcote would surprise you and put your mind at ease. Typically paint and clearcote are about 130 microns thick, the clearcote accounting for half the depth.
You can actually ‘paint correct’ (wetdry sand paper, compound and refine) up to three times before you risk failure of the clearcote.
I use Gtechniq P1 nano polish which is a pad dependant, water based, non deminishing polish.
The video below is shot by Rob Earle (the head honcho of Gtechniq) with Vassily doing the polishing by hand.
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"someassemblyrequired" (someassemblyrequired)
09/01/2017 at 09:22, STARS: 1
Unfortunately no, but I’ll keep an eye out. It’s 20 yrs old, so I suspect it’s getting thin in places, so checking it with a gauge first is probably a good call. I used a Meguiar’s product that’s pretty gentle, which improved things a lot (to where the damage is only noticeable for me from a foot or two), and is probably similar (though likely not nearly as good as the gtechniq P1 compound). Will probably hold me over until the next Miata club detailing day in the spring, when someone experienced can compound it with a rotary polisher.