by "BaconSandwich is tasty." (baconsandwich)
Published 08/31/2017 at 00:01
by "BaconSandwich is tasty." (baconsandwich)
Published 08/31/2017 at 00:01
No Tags
STARS: 1
Honda, in all their glory, though it was a good idea to use a 5 mm hex hole to hold the bolt steady while using a 15 mm wrench on the outside to turn the nut off. A hole, exposed to the elements for 16 years, will eventually get filled with road grime, and will get stripped when attempting to use it. The end result is no way to hold the bolt portion in order to twist the nut off. Thankfully I I had to replace the sway bar end link anyway. Otherwise I would have been up fecal matter creek without a proverbial paddle.
It’s amazing what a cheap rotary tool (aka MasterCraft equivalent of a Dremel) can do with a cut off disk on it. That’s about the first time that tool has actually surprised me.
"Highlander-Datsuns are Forever" (jamesbowland)
08/31/2017 at 00:06, STARS: 9
This is the reality of end links the world over.
"BaconSandwich is tasty." (baconsandwich)
08/31/2017 at 00:07, STARS: 7
The Moog replacements have a spot where you can hold them with an 18 mm wrench while turning the nut. It seems like a much easier way of dealing with them.
"lone_liberal" (token-liberal)
08/31/2017 at 00:34, STARS: 1
Not on a 45 year old Camaro. The sway bar links have a hex head on one end and a nut on the other. No sweat.
"pip bip - choose Corrour" (hhgttg69)
08/31/2017 at 05:42, STARS: 0
generally not a drama here down under.
"BeaterGT" (beatergt)
08/31/2017 at 10:21, STARS: 1
The Moog replacements are so nice! Most even have a grease fitting. Next mod on my Corvette without a doubt.
"SnapUndersteer, Italian Spiderman" (dasborgen)
08/31/2017 at 10:23, STARS: 0
BMW OEM ones (by Lemforder usually) do the same
"Dave the car guy , still here" (a3dave)
08/31/2017 at 10:39, STARS: 0
They all seem substandard. Doesn’t matter the manufacturer and if OE or aftermarket. Links on my old cars went 80-120k miles. Links on front of 08' Ford Edge 40k, front links on 98' Audi A4 43k , rear on 08' Audi A3 41k, on 2000 Audi did all 4 as 2nd owner at 104k , they had been done before. At the dealership we seem to sell them now as low as in the 30k range. I think the earliest I ever did links on anything else I’ve owned were about 70-80k and that was on my 87' Cougar and/or 79' Regal. They almost all seem to be junk now, even the problem solvers with grease fittings just go a little longer and the hardware is just as crappy.
"Highlander-Datsuns are Forever" (jamesbowland)
08/31/2017 at 11:05, STARS: 0
The new ones I bought have wrench flats too, and locknuts. I hope if I ever have to disconnect them again I won’t need to use my sawzall.
"BaconSandwich is tasty." (baconsandwich)
08/31/2017 at 12:49, STARS: 0
So I wonder what has changed.
"BaconSandwich is tasty." (baconsandwich)
08/31/2017 at 12:49, STARS: 0
I think half the front of my car is by Moog now. Ball joints, tie rod ends, lower control arms,and strut mounts are next.
"BeaterGT" (beatergt)
08/31/2017 at 12:59, STARS: 0
Do you live in a bad winter state too?
"thejustache" (thejustache)
08/31/2017 at 13:04, STARS: 0
Just did these on my subaru... can confirm, the MOOG parts are much nicer in this regard!
"Dave the car guy , still here" (a3dave)
08/31/2017 at 13:25, STARS: 0
I think the metal quality is the issue. Now that we’re talking about this I remember I need to spray the hardware on the links on the A3 with some discontinued product by Cyclo Industries. A lot of their stuff were once made by Dupont like all the No 7 brands and Rally brand wax. This is a wax or other type corrosion resistant type spray that smells like old cosmoline. If anyone here ever sees any in any parts store snag it up for spraying fasteners after assembly. It does a great job at making things stay clean and rust free for the next time you work on it. CRC makes something like it Sp-400 and another that supposed to be marine grade but I haven’t used them.
"LongbowMkII" (longbowmkii)
08/31/2017 at 13:49, STARS: 1
a lot of that may have to do with the greater forces sway bars take these days. the bars are stiffer and fighting against more weight.
"Dave the car guy , still here" (a3dave)
08/31/2017 at 13:57, STARS: 0
that too
"benjrblant" (benjblant)
08/31/2017 at 14:27, STARS: 0
I hope you anti-seized the ever-living hell out of the replacement.
"CalzoneGolem" (calzonegolem)
08/31/2017 at 15:26, STARS: 1
I just assume I need to cut off end links. Such is life in the snowy north.
"Seat Safety Switch" (seat-safety-switch)
09/01/2017 at 00:02, STARS: 0
As soon as I saw the dimple on that end-link the half-day I spent pulling them off of my project Celica came flashing back. I ended up drilling through the stud and collapsing it with a mini sledge.
Thanks for the trauma.
"BaconSandwich is tasty." (baconsandwich)
09/01/2017 at 00:31, STARS: 0
Next time (if there is one), I’d recommend a rotary tool. Much faster. :P
"Smallbear wants a modern Syclone, local Maple Leafs spammer" (smallbear94)
09/01/2017 at 09:54, STARS: 1
I had this problem when I changed my shocks. Wasn’t a hope of getting them off—the hex simply cannot take the torque required to break them loose. I had to cut them off with one of those vibratey multitool zipcut things. Took a fucking age to break through, too.
Thankfully the Bilsteins I replaced them with have flats on the top rather than a hex hole.
"Jake - Has Bad Luck So You Don't Have To" (murdersofa)
09/01/2017 at 12:58, STARS: 0
Miata endlinks are the same way, and notorious for being a “give up, cut it off, buy a new one” item.