by "ShrimpHappens, née WJalopy" (bakeshake)
Published 08/14/2017 at 12:29
by "ShrimpHappens, née WJalopy" (bakeshake)
Published 08/14/2017 at 12:29
No Tags
STARS: 0
These are from the same caliper. Left is inner pad, right is outer pad.
I installed new shocks this weekend, and I checked the brakes while doing so. All showed normal wear, except this one. These are from the front-left corner. I replaced all pads, rotors, and fluid when I bought this Jeep 3.5 years ago. Additionally, the caliper at this corner was seized, so I put a new one on at that time.
Obviously the clamping force from the caliper isn’t being applied evenly, which points to the caliper not moving on the carrier bolts correctly. Solution is simply to lubricate the bolts, right? Well, mine aren’t quite like that.
Instead of a long bolt with a non-threaded portion that the caliper slides on, it’s a short bolt that bolts into the part that slides. The sliding part is contained within the rubber boot, and neither were seized. On RockAuto, a new bracket can be purchased ($16), and the sliding pins within the boot can be replaced as well ($4).
For the time being, I reassembled it all, reversing the inner/outer pads, and made sure the caliper could move freely. At that moment, I hadn’t looked on RockAuto and seen that the slider pins could be replaced, so I didn’t know that the ones I have could be removed and greased.
Obviously I’ve got to order a new set of front pads, but what else should I do? I don’t like throwing money at problems, but everything at play is cheap. So do I replace it all? Do I just grease the slider pins I’ve got? OR, and this is the reason I’m posting a brake issue on Oppo, is there something else going on here that I’m unaware of?
2004 Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited, 4.7L V8, 4x4. Pic of installed rear shock for your time (yes there is a jack stand under there):
"Echo51" (echo2047)
08/14/2017 at 12:36, STARS: 1
Make sure the pads move freely in the bracket that hold them aswell as the caliper like you have done.
"whoarder is tellurium" (whoarder)
08/14/2017 at 12:47, STARS: 3
Out of caution, go ahead and replace the sliding pins and caliper hardware. Clean the inner bore and use proper caliper grease on the new sliders and repack. As Echo51 said, make sure its all moving freely.
The boots pop off the caliper bracket by pulling gently at the base of the boot.
"PotbellyJoe and 42 others" (potbellyjoe)
08/14/2017 at 12:48, STARS: 0
I just did brakes over the weekend, one side was a little sticky, so i replaced the clips too, it’s like $0.50 and can make a difference on how easily your pads move. If one side sticks, it compensates with the other...
"VonBootWilly - Likes Toyota, but it's still complicated." (vonbootwilly)
08/14/2017 at 12:51, STARS: 3
I’ve always had some wire brush drill bits around for cleaning up the inside of brake sliders.
Usually if I just run that inside the slider hole with a drill, then blow it out with air, sand the pin and grease it, pretty much always works great unless it is really badly pitted or just too loose. But loose will generally just show up as an angled pad wear anyway, which on older cars isn’t the end of the world.
You are probably fine as long as you can move the caliper pins and cylinders by hand.
"Twingo Tamer - About to descend into project car hell." (oppisitelock)
08/14/2017 at 13:28, STARS: 0
Wouldn’t worry about it, pretty common. Inspect everything for damage or serious corrosion, clean and grease everything and put it back together.
"valsidalv, reminding you that infiniti is an option" (valsidalv)
08/15/2017 at 00:13, STARS: 1
I had the exact same thing happen to me. Turns out the caliper was sticking and not releasing when I let off the brake. I feel a bit dumb for not noticing the warning signs and essentially driving around with my right rear brake applied almost all the time.
If the piston is difficult to push in by hand (use a C-clamp and old pad) then it’s stuck and needs to be rebuilt or replaced.
"Dave the car guy , still here" (a3dave)
09/28/2017 at 10:32, STARS: 0
I’ve got some of those type brushes too. I get funny looks at gun shops when I tell them I’m using them for working on brake jobs.