by "Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo" (akioohtori)
Published 08/10/2017 at 11:14
by "Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo" (akioohtori)
Published 08/10/2017 at 11:14
Tags: The Alfa Doesn't Have A Tag Yet
; everything that is wrong with
STARS: 2
Hey, since you guys seemed to like my similar article about my Saab , due to the declining health of my Alfa I figured I should write a similar article.
“Hey, shouldn’t you be working on your Saab, rather than writing stuff on the internet?” You are right to ask that.
Moving on…
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It runs, drives, and is an Alfa. What more do you want?
But seriously, the engine feels fine and the transmission is smooth and doesn’t seem to suffer from any of the syncro issues common to the spider.
The tires are new and in good shape (round), everything in the instrument cluster works, as do all the important parts of it.
The body is in pretty good shape, though I suspect there is more filler present than I’d like to think about.
The top keeps water out and all the glass is original.
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It leaks oil. A lot. This was originally thought to be the top seal on the gearbox being bad, flinging oil out the top and then having it run down the sides. Also could be the transmission was overfilled. This may be true, but I worry about the volume of oil that is coming out. So much so that I am beginning to suspect my rear main seal. Haven’t had a chance to investigate further.
The AC is kaput. Enough said.
The heater blower doesn’t work. Apparently the heating system (completely independent from the AC) is built in a stack in the center of the car, with the blower being the last thing in the stack. That means any water, condensation, or leaking coolant that gets in that stack gets trapped in a small cup with the blower bearings. Lovely.
There is a ground problem… somewhere. I know. An Alfa with a ground problem. Unheard of, right? Anyway, it causes my wipers to run dangerously slow and the voltage reading on my dash to be a little depressing. The problem(s) have gradually been getting better as I’ve fixed grounds, but still a persistent issue.
Coolant is/was disappearing. Probably not the head gasket, but you never know. I recently replaced the water pump in hopes of solving that and my overheating problem. No, get out of the comments section! I said it probably wasn’t the head gasket. I have reasons for believing this other than denial.
The driveline is shot. Driveshaft supports, bearings, transmission mount, u-joints, guibo… all bad. I have all the parts, it is just a matter of putting them in.
It has non-factory Hayashi Perrier wheels. Not a deal breaker, but a bit odd.
It needs a new top, eventually.
The passenger door is keyed different from the drivers. Meh. Who locks a convertible?
The truck lock and gas cap lock don’t work. Meh.
The paint was a cheap job done by the PO to get it ready to sell. Presents well from 10 feet, but is expected to age poorly.
The seats and carpet are both in need of replacement, eventually.
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I may have serious engine troubles ahead. This may be my natural skepticism/ waiting for the other shoe too. After changing the water pump, the engine was exceptionally hard to start and didn’t want to stay running unless I gave it gas. After warming up, it was fine. This could be explained (ish) by there not being much fuel in the tank (It was very, very low) or by my having damaged the MAF during the pump change. Or head-gasket. Or some other problem. Unfortunately the car is in storage while my garage gets rebuilt, so this is all a big unknown.
Rust. Oh my god rust. Though the car looks pretty much perfect from 10 feet, when you get close in you realize there has been an incident on the driver’s side. The chassis rail is bent, the floorplan as a 2ft break it in, and the rocker is rotting. This is the elephant in the room, as fixing it will quickly exceed all rational money for the car.
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Well… to fix all of these things takes time and money. How much?
Driveline repairs - $1000 to $1500
Top Repair - $500 to $1000
Rust Repair - $3000 to $4000
AC Repair - $1000
Heater Repair - $500
Misc - $500
Total: $6500 to $8500
Estimated vehicle worth before repairs: $4,000
Estimated vehicle worth after repairs: $6,500
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I love this car. It took me on the best adventure of my life and earned its place in my garage. I’d convinced myself that I was ready to do what needed to be done with this Alfa regardless of the value of the vehicle, calling it a “forever car”. Still actually looking at the numbers gives me pause.
Right now, if the engine is OK, I’ll probably proceed with repairs. Rust first, then driveline, then top. The rest can wait. But that doesn’t mean it is rational.
"Chariotoflove" (chariotoflove)
08/10/2017 at 11:31, STARS: 0
No, get out of the comments section!
I LOL’d.
Good write up. I think the only way this car is rational (Hahahaha!...sorry, had to get that out) is if you fix only what you need to keep it running (marginally) safely and then drive it only for weekend fun trips in the sun until it dies. That said, carry on.
"diplodicus" (diplodicus)
08/10/2017 at 11:33, STARS: 1
Good thing I read your post, there’s a non running spider near me for 1500$ I was tempted.
Now I will stay away.
"jvirgs drives a Subaru" (jvirgs)
08/10/2017 at 11:36, STARS: 1
aperson.... you need a parts car for your Alfa?
"Chariotoflove" (chariotoflove)
08/10/2017 at 11:39, STARS: 1
Was considering the same thing last night after seeing a cute spider in a parking lot. This post was a true PSA.
"Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo" (akioohtori)
08/10/2017 at 11:43, STARS: 2
Nononono! The Miata people are wrong. The correct answer is always to buy an Alfa spider!
But yeah... that said the difference in price between a good one and a bad one is distressingly small and one should seek out a “good” one. Rust and body damage are thing things that most can’t deal with in their own garage (myself included) and tend to eat up the kitty.
Parts availability is good and they’re truly special to drive. I completely recommend it.
"random001" (random001)
08/10/2017 at 11:51, STARS: 0
Wait, tell me more about your lifted vehicle boxes there...
"Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo" (akioohtori)
08/10/2017 at 11:56, STARS: 1
Someone tacked a workshop onto the back of my garage, but it was about a foot lower than my garage floor. When I needed another garage bay, a plan was hatched to make a little ramp to roll cars into the workshop. But then this seemed more reasonable, and gave me a poor man’s lift.
Each side is just three 2x12s sammiched with 4x4s and faced with plywood. Overkill, but they work surprisingly well and are exceptionally stable.
"random001" (random001)
08/10/2017 at 11:57, STARS: 1
OMG, thank you! That’s exactly the info I was looking for. Those are awesome!
"Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo" (akioohtori)
08/10/2017 at 12:08, STARS: 0
No problem.
One warning is they are REALLY heavy, but since they’re meant to be permanent and just get moved around to accommodate different vehicles.
Here is a picture better picture of how it works with the garage.
"Aremmes" (aremmes)
08/10/2017 at 12:12, STARS: 1
Very simple and clever, lovely. I’d only add 2x6s on the top sides to act as guide rails to prevent the car from rolling off the sides.
"My bird IS the word" (mybirdistheword)
08/10/2017 at 12:16, STARS: 0
I get irrational. The question is would you be comfortable selling this one and buying another. Maybe this car is just boned.
If you are dead set on having one of these, go for it. I’m doing the same thing, albeit it will cost me similar money either way.
"Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo" (akioohtori)
08/10/2017 at 12:18, STARS: 1
That has been discussed, though I was thinking of a 1x2 or 1x4, just to provide warning rather than prevent. The thinking is it won’t add bulk and will keep the wheels able to rotate without obstruction while still warning you before shit goes south. We’ve talked about doing LED strip lights on the inside to provide better light while you’re under there.
"RacinBob" (racinbob)
11/27/2017 at 23:37, STARS: 0
My solution on the heater is bypass the core and never use it again. That has worked for me over the last 20 years. Come to think of it I haven’t run the fan either in that time. I kind of like the wheels as that’s the look in the ‘80's.
Oh, the head gasket is a pretty easy repair, you could do that on your own in your new garage. Check your compression though first as those head gaskets don’t give much grief. . (you have tried to torque the head nuts, tight?) The heater valves leak so it could be from there.
The drive line repairs are worth it. I would be planning on replacing the brake lines, calipers, and master cyl’s and slave. That stuff is cheap at rock auto.
"Akio Ohtori - RIP Oppo" (akioohtori)
11/27/2017 at 23:47, STARS: 0
Thanks for the advice!
The brakes are all good. I did the rears a while back and the fronts look OK. Should have done the flex hoses, but I didn’t. Will if I end up doing the fronts.
I haven’t done a recent update, but when I went and picked it up today (after sitting for 4 months) I didn’t need to bleed the cooling system, so I am guessing that replacing the water pump fixed the leak OR the leak is in the heater core.
While I have had occasion to use the heat, you’re mostly right that the HVAC system in these, especially as a non-daily, isn’t needed.
Haha think the wheels are OK, but I just bought a set of Cromadoras turbina wheels that I REALLY like. Just need a quick refurb and on they go!