by "HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
Published 06/19/2017 at 23:37
by "HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
Published 06/19/2017 at 23:37
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STARS: 0
I think I’ve found the grrr in my truck and either the cause or symptom of my driveline thunk thats been getting worse. I used to think it was the front diff but it turns out there is a leak and some play in the transfer case front housing extension bearing.
Like I said...is it a symptom? or a the cause? Pretty sure it was caused by either the front driveshaft hitting the sway bar when it went up on a post lift...or from an overpacked slipjoint in the front driveshaft that hydraulically jammed it in.
in either case I need:
A new front shaft
A rebuilt front extension housing.
There is a guy willing to sell me a used transfer case and and front driveshaft...probably $250 for the lot...but its a 166k mile set that has an unknown center diff, viscous coupler and lock actuator, not to mention seals and u-joints. Oh and the truck it came from died from a hard front hit that moved the front axle a lot. On the other hand...its probably a $300 job to rebuild the front (I don’t have the SST’s and pullers/presses I need). Thoughts?
"TahoeSTi" (tahoesti)
06/20/2017 at 00:14, STARS: 1
Do the rebuild.
"benjrblant" (benjblant)
06/20/2017 at 00:45, STARS: 0
I’m clueless as to this noise and your t-case situation, but I’d agree with TahoeSTi on a rebuild. Treat used parts just as that- used parts that will also need a rebuild. If you can’t afford downtime while the case is rebuilt, buy the used, rebuild it on a bench, then install it. If downtime is no concern, rebuild what you’ve got?
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
06/20/2017 at 01:00, STARS: 0
Sounds like a bearing. And the clunk is driveline shunt.
"RallyWrench" (rndlitebmw)
06/20/2017 at 01:03, STARS: 0
U-joints, bearings, and seals are cheap and easy, do them. Is your front output shaft actually worn out beyond sealing, or is that a guess? That’s a hard thing to wear out. Usually seals go due to play, which is in the bearings.
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
06/20/2017 at 01:06, STARS: 0
I think I’ve unseat the bearing by jamming it hydraulically with the front shaft that couldn’t retract on the slip joint. in which case the seal is just worn/torn.
"Kiltedpadre" (kiltedpadre)
06/20/2017 at 01:18, STARS: 1
Given how little the price difference is between the rebuild and the used unit I would definitely rebuild. It’s not worth taking the chance on unknown parts given that there’s only a $50 difference.
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
06/20/2017 at 01:19, STARS: 0
well Im making assumptions on the price of a rebuild.
"Kiltedpadre" (kiltedpadre)
06/20/2017 at 01:24, STARS: 1
I understand that completely. If the truck the used part was coming from had lower miles or even more importantly hadn’t been involved in a front end crash I’d see it differently.
I’m all for saving every penny you can, but that is just too many maybes for my taste. Only exception would be if you know the seller and can get the money back if it’s no good.
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
06/20/2017 at 01:26, STARS: 1
yeah no chance of that. he already stiffed me on the rear driveshaft. I drove down to get both front and rear to buy and he decided when I got there to keep them both (only to get a call today I can have the front if I want it)
"Kiltedpadre" (kiltedpadre)
06/20/2017 at 01:30, STARS: 2
Oh it’s that guy. I definitely say skip it. I can’t see giving a guy money that already jerked you around once. He’d have to deliver for me to even consider it.
"AMGtech - now with more recalls!" (amgtech)
06/20/2017 at 03:16, STARS: 0
Based on that diagram it likes pretty easy. I say rebuild it. I remember doing a bunch of front output bearings on discos back in the day. Those had a lot more going on in the front housing than yours and were maybe $7-800 out the door. I think we were charging 5-6 hours, bearing, seals, fluid.