by "Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo" (thetomselleck)
Published 05/10/2017 at 22:17
by "Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo" (thetomselleck)
Published 05/10/2017 at 22:17
Tags: Project car purgatory
STARS: 1
How do I get this thing off? Book just says “use a special tool.”
Here’s the tool they have me...
"benjrblant" (benjblant)
05/10/2017 at 22:19, STARS: 3
The tool you have is a pickle fork. Wedge it between the tie rod end and the part of the hub that it attaches to, hit with a BFH until it separates. I’ve had more luck with a tie rod puller rental from an auto parts store.
"Sovereign, Purveyor of Coupes" (sovereign-automotive)
05/10/2017 at 22:19, STARS: 0
Pickle fork!
Mmmm, pickles....
"Nibbles" (nibbles)
05/10/2017 at 22:20, STARS: 5
stick it in there and hammer hard
sometimes you really gotta wang it to get the joint to loose
"benjrblant" (benjblant)
05/10/2017 at 22:20, STARS: 1
"crowmolly" (crowmolly)
05/10/2017 at 22:23, STARS: 0
Yup, that’s it. Put the fork in the joint and hit it with a hammer. Will wreck the boot most likely. Once it pops you can probably tap the stud back out.
"TheHondaBro" (wwaveform)
05/10/2017 at 22:23, STARS: 2
When you’re done fixing your car, can you tune my piano?
"415s30 W123TSXWaggoIIIIIIo ( •_•))°)" (415s30)
05/10/2017 at 22:24, STARS: 7
"Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo" (thetomselleck)
05/10/2017 at 22:25, STARS: 4
Thank you
"benjrblant" (benjblant)
05/10/2017 at 22:25, STARS: 4
I’ve had better luck with a tie rod puller (rental tool) from auto parts store. If the fork does not work, I’d recommend that.
"Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo" (thetomselleck)
05/10/2017 at 22:26, STARS: 1
At this rate, see you in 2025
"AestheticsInMotion" (aestheticsinmotion)
05/10/2017 at 22:27, STARS: 0
Those rental pullers are invaluable. That was the only thing that got my steering wheel hub off after I realized I hadn’t aligned it properly
"HFV has no HFV. But somehow has 2 motorcycles" (hondasfordsvolvo)
05/10/2017 at 22:28, STARS: 0
Wedge in pickle fork, apply (minimum)2lb hammer
"Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo" (thetomselleck)
05/10/2017 at 22:28, STARS: 0
What the hell do I do about this?
"Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo" (thetomselleck)
05/10/2017 at 22:29, STARS: 3
Can confirm, was a bitch to get off
"Spaceball-Two" (spaceball-two)
05/10/2017 at 22:30, STARS: 0
Wow! That’s a lot cleaner under there than I expected. Progress yo!
"TheHondaBro" (wwaveform)
05/10/2017 at 22:30, STARS: 0
I’ll see you then!
"unclevanos (Ovaltine Jenkins)" (unclevanos)
05/10/2017 at 22:31, STARS: 4
ZOIDBERG 2025 - A TERCEL IN EVERY DRIVEWAY
"TheNeonDriver - Now with More BMW!" (streetrolledtechonolgy)
05/10/2017 at 22:32, STARS: 0
To the Gargler! YouTube has all the answers (if your replacing the tie rod end, you unscrew it from the rack.)
"benjrblant" (benjblant)
05/10/2017 at 22:32, STARS: 0
That looks like the boot to your rack and pinion. Depending on how this assembly functions and ties together, this might need to be replaced. What year is your Tercel?
"Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo" (thetomselleck)
05/10/2017 at 22:33, STARS: 0
84
"crowmolly" (crowmolly)
05/10/2017 at 22:35, STARS: 1
Looks like a new rack is $100-$200 at Rock Auto. That’s super cheap IMO. Might not be worth dicking with the tie rods themselves.
"Michael" (mhanczyc)
05/10/2017 at 22:37, STARS: 0
HF sells a different style separator that works pretty well
https://m.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-inch-forged-ball-joint-separator-99849.html
Less likely to tear a ball joint boot with it.
You can preload the joint, and just hit it with a hammer and it generally pops loose.
100% success rate for me, but I’ve never had to deal with a rusty car.
"benjrblant" (benjblant)
05/10/2017 at 22:39, STARS: 0
SR5? 5 or 6spd?
"Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo" (thetomselleck)
05/10/2017 at 22:41, STARS: 0
SR5, “6" speed (5-speed with an EL gear in 4wd mode)
"LOREM IPSUM" (lorem---ipsum)
05/10/2017 at 22:43, STARS: 0
Ball joint separators make easy work of those:
"Khalbali" (khalbali2)
05/10/2017 at 22:45, STARS: 0
You stick it between the knuckle and the tie rod end to pry it out. I prefer the bolty type
"benjrblant" (benjblant)
05/10/2017 at 22:46, STARS: 0
1) Confirm that your vin tag says AL25LG-ZWFQCA as the product code or model number. This should be a great resource for looking up toyota part numbers and diagrams:
http://toyotamarket.ru/us/131420/024/
"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
05/10/2017 at 22:49, STARS: 1
It also works to hold a heavy hammer against the back of the eye and hit the near side of the eye with a light hammer like a ball-peen. The shock combined with the elastic deformation of the eye (think like a spring) tightening and un-tightening on the taper can help out a ton. It’s nearly impossible to crush the eye, but getting a taper to bounce/squeeze out of it? Not too hard.
Can be combined with pickle fork/BFH or puller tool techniques.
"benjrblant" (benjblant)
05/10/2017 at 22:51, STARS: 1
"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
05/10/2017 at 22:52, STARS: 1
Related, I made a special tool on Monday. My own version of a Ford T57P-3006-A for popping ball joints loose:
Worked great.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
05/10/2017 at 22:52, STARS: 0
Ewwwww front steer!
PS: For next time, you don’t need the pickle fork. Just hit the part it goes through with a hammer enough times and it’ll pop out.
"MoCamino" (mocamino)
05/10/2017 at 23:01, STARS: 0
+100 on the separator tool. The last ball joint I worked on (2001 Toyota Echo) was a BEAST to get loose. I beat on that thing for three hours with a pickle fork trying to get it to come loose. It wouldn’t budge. Went to Harbor Freight, spent $16 (thanks to the ever-present 20% off coupon), and within five minutes of getting home the old ball joint was loose. WORTH. EVERY. PENNY. Use the right tool. Buy it if you can afford it, get it as a rental from the parts store if you can’t.
Note: HF is a decent source for inexpensive tools, but it depends on what the tool is. Some of the stuff they have isn’t worth a crap. For example, everything I’ve read says their strut compressors are a death trap.
"XJDano" (xjdano)
05/10/2017 at 23:03, STARS: 0
I know you’ve already got this but with the jeep ones I’ll wack the spindle side with a hammer and it’ll drop. It may take a few smacks. If you are replacing the end you can bang away withe the pickle fork, I’ve never had to replace the ends, just retightened down after whatever I needed it off for was done
"jminer" (jminer)
05/10/2017 at 23:09, STARS: 1
I’ve never had much luck with the pickle fork. This is the tool that has always worked for me to remove tie rod ends. They’re only about $15 bucks at a parts store.
After you put it under a good amount of tension whack it with a hammer if it doesn’t release on its own.
"Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo" (thetomselleck)
05/10/2017 at 23:12, STARS: 0
Thanks!
"Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo" (thetomselleck)
05/10/2017 at 23:14, STARS: 0
That’s almost exactly what the “use special tool” image in the book looks like lol
"pip bip - choose Corrour" (hhgttg69)
05/11/2017 at 04:16, STARS: 0
big f***ing hammer?
"BritishLeyland™" (leylandcars)
05/11/2017 at 10:54, STARS: 0
I have the excact same problem on my MGB now, except I don’t have a “special tool” and I don’t wan’t to tear the rubber booth.
"uofime-2" (uofime-2)
05/11/2017 at 11:17, STARS: 0
support the knuckle with a jack and bash it with a hammer, if that fails try adding heat