by "The Crazy Kanuck; RIP Oppositelock" (jukesjukesjukes)
Published 04/22/2017 at 11:09
by "The Crazy Kanuck; RIP Oppositelock" (jukesjukesjukes)
Published 04/22/2017 at 11:09
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STARS: 2
I need a breaker bar to remove the oil plug. I over tightned it last time. The oil filter socket I bought won’t fit on the old filter, but it will on the new one. I bought the correct oil filter.
"duurtlang" (duurtlang)
04/22/2017 at 11:13, STARS: 1
Do you own a torque wrench?
"pip bip - choose Corrour" (hhgttg69)
04/22/2017 at 11:16, STARS: 0
rattle gun!
;)
"The Crazy Kanuck; RIP Oppositelock" (jukesjukesjukes)
04/22/2017 at 11:18, STARS: 1
Yup. I just use the “grunt” setting to get it on. When I grunt it’s tight enough
"Highlander-Datsuns are Forever" (jamesbowland)
04/22/2017 at 11:47, STARS: 0
Enhance! Frosty the snow man was a very...
"Tristan" (casselts)
04/22/2017 at 11:59, STARS: 0
One ugga dugga or two?
"The Crazy Kanuck; RIP Oppositelock" (jukesjukesjukes)
04/22/2017 at 12:12, STARS: 1
It was the largest coffee mug that was clean.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
04/22/2017 at 12:29, STARS: 0
Is the oil filter positioned so that you can do the screw driver trick?
"gogmorgo - rowing gears in a Grand Cherokee" (gogmorgo)
04/22/2017 at 12:58, STARS: 0
Oil drain plugs usually end up very well lubed as you’re sticking them back in, something about pouring several litres of oil over the threads, which means they’ll get incredibly tight with not much torque. Then as you drive the oil creeps back out of the threads and it’s a bugger to undo. Spin it with a wrench or socket (needs to be more than finger tight obviously) until it stops, make sure it’s snug but not tight.
Just an example of oil on threads causing problems, while rebuilding a CBR600RR engine with my FSAE team we encountered one bolt that without fail if we didn’t make damn certain the bore was absolutely clean and dry (we’re talking blasting with brake clean and then compressed air to dry it) we would neck and eventually snap the bolt before getting anywhere near the torque spec, which was single-digit neuton-meters, so we’re talking walking a 1/4 ratchet around with your pinky-finger levels of bolt breakage.
"The Crazy Kanuck; RIP Oppositelock" (jukesjukesjukes)
04/22/2017 at 13:31, STARS: 0
The filter was not stuck. It is in a easy sport, I just needed use a chain wrench to get it loose. The filter socket did not like the old one.
I pulled this off google.
"merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc" (merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc)
04/22/2017 at 13:52, STARS: 1
Hand tight is all that’s needed, if you’re putting the filter on with a wrench, you’re doing it wrong. Come on man, this is 101 level stuff.
"The Crazy Kanuck; RIP Oppositelock" (jukesjukesjukes)
04/22/2017 at 14:23, STARS: 1
I stop turning it once it stops resisting. Then a quick tap to ensure it won’t spin off.
"merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc" (merged-5876237249235911857-hrw8uc)
04/22/2017 at 15:59, STARS: 0
As long as there’s no wrench involved on the install side, you’re doing alright. But if you go to take it off and you need a wrench, that might have been put on a bit too tight. I’m normally good with a fresh microfiber or a clean, non oily hand to break it loose. At least the placement of your filter doesn’t require any real mess once you break it loose. It’s like the ls engines, right down by the drain plug. My Dakota requires a bit of finagling to get it out, in the process it ends up practically dumping out into the drain pan as I pull it out. Pain in the ass. I celebrate when I can get the job done without oil making it all the way to my shoulder. I used to have a special oil change shirt just for that job. Looked like I dipped the right sleeve in oil. Good times.
"pip bip - choose Corrour" (hhgttg69)
04/23/2017 at 01:04, STARS: 1
two