by "Tripper" (tripe46)
Published 04/21/2017 at 09:47
by "Tripper" (tripe46)
Published 04/21/2017 at 09:47
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STARS: 1
I’ve got first crack at a rough 2002 before the owner posts it for sale. It’s a 74' with a soso respray and 105k miles. It’s got shitty wheels of an extreme offset, and some other ebay mods. I’ve only seen one pic on someone else’s shitty phone and been able to ask a few questions through another person.
Apparently it runs “ok”, when I said “runs like I can drive it an hour home ok?” the answer was a hesitant “yes.” I might make the sale contingent on this haha.
The respray looks ok (waiting for him to send pics), but like one notch above pep boys ok. It’s a pretty blue but not a factory color.
He wants $5500. If it runs I’m going to start around 4k.
I’d be buying with the intention of an eventual full restoration, bare metal repaint yadayadayada.
So guys/gals. What should I look for besides rust, on that note are there any sneaky places that I ought to look for rust? When should I just say no?
I can get a PPI but I’m not sure that I want to. My inde mechanic is a pessimist when it comes to older bimmers and I don’t want his good sense to get in the way of my emotions.
"My X-type is too a real Jaguar" (TomSlick)
04/21/2017 at 09:55, STARS: 0
A friend had one of these same year. As for rust remove the spare tire if the trunk leaks you will see the ground.
The good news is there is a big following of these so there’s lots of help out there and they are not getting cheaper. Search the forums for what parts are built out of unobtainium. I remember him complaining about that a lot.
"WilliamsSW" (williamssw)
04/21/2017 at 09:55, STARS: 1
This is a bucket list car for me (one of many haha) but I don’t know much about them, other than that they are highly susceptible to rust. Seems like a bargain if it runs, is straight, and isn’t completely eaten away. But likely that you’d have to pour a lot of $ into it. Good luck!
"Tripper" (tripe46)
04/21/2017 at 09:58, STARS: 1
Thanks! Yea the fact that these things aren’t getting any cheaper is what is motivating me to leap at this one even though it might be a piece a poop. If it actually drives and I can take it 5k or under...I have to.
"Tripper" (tripe46)
04/21/2017 at 10:05, STARS: 1
Same for me! I’ve always said I would make a move if I found one that was below $x,xxx and running...
"diplodicus" (diplodicus)
04/21/2017 at 10:08, STARS: 1
Do it.
"WilliamsSW" (williamssw)
04/21/2017 at 10:11, STARS: 0
Ha! That’s exactly right. These things aren’t getting cheaper, either. As long as you don’t let emotions rule over reality and ignore huge red flags, you’re good. Doesn’t seem like you have that issue though (it’s something I personally have to be wary of)
"S65" (granthp)
04/21/2017 at 10:11, STARS: 1
"Tripper" (tripe46)
04/21/2017 at 10:14, STARS: 0
Believe me, if I go see this thing, sit in the drivers seat, put it in first, and it goes...Odd’s of my me not buying are very slim.
"Dru" (therealkennyd)
04/21/2017 at 10:18, STARS: 1
Based on your description alone, it sounds like every square inch of the car will need some kind of attention. Unless it’s a tii car, the price is a little high IMHO. But I’ve seen pricing vary heavily based on region, so YMMV. Bottom line is it’s an old BMW. It’s going to be a project in the most literal sense of the word. But I’m given to understand they are rewarding to drive.
"diplodicus" (diplodicus)
04/21/2017 at 10:19, STARS: 1
Ya that’s how I am too, I have zero self control when I like a car. Even if it’s a total pos.
"Tripper" (tripe46)
04/21/2017 at 10:21, STARS: 1
Oh I’ll get emotional about it, but in the sense that I will spend more than I should. I wouldn’t buy an outright bad car just because I have 2002 boner.
"WilliamsSW" (williamssw)
04/21/2017 at 10:26, STARS: 0
I wouldn’t feel guilty about overpaying at all. Buying a bad car is what you have to avoid, so you’re fine—
"Tripper" (tripe46)
04/21/2017 at 10:36, STARS: 0
They are fantastic to drive. I would agree that the price is a little high, but availability is the problem. There are only a few around, most of them are way out of my price range, or half a car. Running ones below 10k are pretty scarce. If it’s truly a bad car, I hope it doesn’t start when I get there because I will probably be a buyer if it drives haha.
"Textured Soy Protein" (texturedsoyprotein)
04/21/2017 at 10:52, STARS: 0
I think the real question here, regardless of the specifics of the price, is how much do you want to take on a project of this extent?
"Dru" (therealkennyd)
04/21/2017 at 10:53, STARS: 0
If you can get it under five I say screw it and buy. You can’t take your money with you when you die. YOLO and all that.
"Tripper" (tripe46)
04/21/2017 at 11:01, STARS: 0
I’m ready. Another owner put me on to a local 2002 guru. I’m going to try to arrange a meeting before/on the way to see the car.
What I’m not ready for is diagnosing a totally dead engine or fixing a lot of rust. The biggest hurdle for me otherwise is the fact that it will need to be repainted again. As I said, the paint is ok, but it’s not factory. So at some point I’m going to have to go buku $ for a bare metal repaint in a factory color.
Also I’ve just been told that the things I thought were stick on chrome fender vents are just stickers... 0.25 respect points back.
"Tripper" (tripe46)
04/21/2017 at 11:09, STARS: 0
Yea that’s the way I feel, under 5 and I’m if it starts.
"Textured Soy Protein" (texturedsoyprotein)
04/21/2017 at 11:18, STARS: 0
Seems like maybe rather than rushing to buy this one it might be worth trying to find an example that needs less work overall.
(I still want to get an FD RX-7 or 944 Turbo but neither of those are commitments I’m ready to make right now.)
"Tripper" (tripe46)
04/21/2017 at 11:21, STARS: 0
My wife has got the hots for an FD, but she just got a new car. I won’t know if it’s worth it or not until I see/drive it, but I know that I will decide quickly and won’t look back.
"gmctavish needs more space" (gmctavish)
04/21/2017 at 12:04, STARS: 0
That seems a little pricey for a big bumper car, especially with a cheap respray. The engines are dead simple, and cheap, it’s the rust you really need to worry about. Shock towers, trunk floor, rockers, frame rails, fenders, rear window and windshield seals/frames. If it’s somehow not rusty, then I’d say go for it. You’ll still have your hands full de-modding it, or modding it better, but solid ones are hard to find for anything like cheap.
"Trunk Impaired 318" (matteocscaptura)
04/21/2017 at 12:47, STARS: 1
1602 owner here.
Rust is a big killer, the rear shock towers are usually what I base an 02s worth on if it’s not in good shape. If everything is straight body-wise and doesn’t have serious rear shock tower rust it’s worth salvaging. If there’s significant rear shock tower rust I write it off. The mechanical aspects are fairly easy to correct (tii notwithstanding) but some parts can be a bit tricky to source.
"Tripper" (tripe46)
04/21/2017 at 12:49, STARS: 0
Thanks! Can I get a clear enough view from under the car/trunk?
"Trunk Impaired 318" (matteocscaptura)
04/21/2017 at 12:51, STARS: 1
You’ll be able to see them when you open the trunk!
"Jake Girardet" (jakegirardet)
04/21/2017 at 13:16, STARS: 0
I just so happened to pick up a ‘72 just over a year ago, in the exact color (Malaga) as the one pictured at the top of this post. Like the example in question, mine also had about 105,000 miles, had been resprayed once (way back in 1979 according to the receipts), needed some attention in several areas, and likewise carried a $5500 asking price. It didn’t have any modifications that were of questionable taste or judgement though, as the only apparent modifications were an old set of ceramic-coated equal length exhaust headers, one of those sought-after Zender-manufactured lips for the edge of the trunk lid, and some rectangular(?!) fog lights that were easy to remove. I offered him $4500, and after some negotiating, we agreed on $5000.
I have found working on the car to be a true pleasure. Everything is so simple, and easily accessible, and the resources for parts, diagrams, and tips is almost hard to believe. Compared to working on any substantially newer car, it is a piece of cake simply due to it’s incredible simplicity.
As for things to watch out for prior to purchase, I would recommend that you closely examine the rocker panels from both the inboard, and outboard sides, as this is a notoriously common spot for rust to take its toll. Additionally, I would recommend closely inspecting the condition of the rear strut towers, as these can begin to corrode over time and even start to develop cracks in the unibody if not properly treated in time. The easy side to examine is of course the rear side, which you can get a good look at by simply opening up the trunk, but I would also try to persuade the owner to allow you to remove the rear seat, as it is only held on with two simple screws, and what lies beneath it can often reveal a lot about the structural condition of the car.
If the rocker panels and the rear strut towers look solid, I would seriously consider purchasing it. They are an absolute blast to drive, and the NADA value has nearly doubled since I bought mine almost two years ago, so if you plan on doing a proper restoration it could definitely be a worthyand fun investment.
Good luck, and let me know if you have any other questions.
"Tripper" (tripe46)
04/25/2017 at 09:26, STARS: 1
He sold it before I could get to it. He said once he pulled it out of the garage he had people knocking on his door. Someone took it on the spot. Pretty bummed haha. We’ll now I know for certain that I must leap at the next running car in that price range.
"WilliamsSW" (williamssw)
04/25/2017 at 12:37, STARS: 0
Aww, that sucks! I get the impression that this one just sort of fell in your lap, as opposed to you searching for one (correct me if I’m wrong). Has this whetted your appetite to kick the search into high gear? Do you have space for it now? I get the impression you have at least 3 cars between you and your wife now? My problem is that we currently have 4. Lucky enough to have a 3 car garage, but the driveway is short, and I’m constantly shifting cars around to get the BMW out to drive it. I need to get rid of something (at least 1) in order to add something...
"Tripper" (tripe46)
04/25/2017 at 13:40, STARS: 1
This one fell into my lap (which is the way I prefer), but I have searches setup on CL and Auto Trader, and have for years. 90% of 2002's are gorgeous and 30k or more, or non running ground up restoration projects at various stages (stages of terrible).
We’ve got 3 at the moment (S3,M3,Forester) plus the Grom. My father let’s me keep the M3 in his garage for the low price of letting him drive it to play golf every once and a while. However that won’t be forever as my parents are car nerds too. My dad is short a fun car and has been eyeing one for a while. As soon as he makes a move, I’ve got to find a new spot for the M3. We can fit up to 4 cars in our drive way, but one after the other... It sucks enough when they’re are two cars in the driveway, let alone 4. No garage:( maybe soon.
So at the moment I’m kind of jammed up, but I’m going to let the S3 go in the not so near but not so distant future. I love it, but I’m not keep it for 10 years in love with it. I’m wasting money buying a new car every couple of years. Now we’ve got this house that I want to do stuff to like have a garage, and more trips that we want to take...New cars are great, but I’m at the DIY level on home projects where I need at least a little pickup. So I’m going to get a Ranger, then list the Audi for sale. Once it sells I will be out for blood on a classic/modern classic. 2002, Orig Cooper, E30, E39M5, I’d even pickup another E46M3 but it would have to be a coupe.
So awesome that you’ve got 3 bays! What are you holdin’ besides your E46?
"WilliamsSW" (williamssw)
04/25/2017 at 18:10, STARS: 1
That’s great that your parents are car geeks, and let you park the M3 there. Not having a garage can be a pain, depending on where you are. Living around Chicago, it’s practically a necessity. The rest of our cars aren’t all that interesting - a 2005 Pathfinder which I want to get rid of, but my wife wants to keep because truck; a GS 350 that I DD (Lexus, not Buick :/); and my wife’s X3 which she hates and is eager to get rid of. My problem is that we have an 8 month old, my wife is ready for #2, and we plan to move in the next two years.
She’s fine with me playing with cars, but there isn’t much spare $$ for that at the moment, and there isn’t space, either. I keep working on her to get rid of the Pathfinder (it’s of little use to us now, and we’re paying insurance, plus I have to fix stuff that breaks on it), but realistically, I’d have to get rid of it and the E46 to get another toy.
My list of wants is very similar to yours, plus I like ‘60's cars. E46/E90 M3; E34/E39 M5 (E34 is what I really dream of); 2002; and a list of ‘61-66 GM cars that would be way less practical than a 2002. Prices on all of the BMW’s seem to be getting a little silly, now, though - I don’t see paying $25-30k for a car that I don’t drive most of the time. When I get more serious, I’ll be looking for something under that, which will need some work, I’m sure.
Speaking of which - did you see this - out in Sacramento, but seems rust free and includes a photo of the inside of the trunk:
http://oppositelock.kinja.com/i-hate-craigslsit-1794642655
"Tripper" (tripe46)
04/25/2017 at 19:07, STARS: 0
Has the X3 been troublesome? I had one as a rental, and while that class of vehicle is not really my wheelhouse, I thought it was a lot nicer than the Audi/Merc equivalent.
We’re not trying to have kids, but we’re not, not trying to have kids haha. So I totally understand there. So now a days, even to myself I can’t justify an expensive dd when I’ve got the M3 on deck.
My budget will definitely be 20k or less for whatever I get in addition to the ranger. I don’t want to do a full restoration or anything, but I invite things that need fixing. I’ve had this idea forever of buying an abused BMW as it’s “sponsor” to rehabilitate from it’s last 3 pill popping owners. I’m talking maybe lowing springs/wheel spacers, etc bolt ons...Not one that has been on crack it’s entire life.
I did see that and I’m instantly reminded that all of the cool old cars/good deals are on the west cost! My wife wants to go back to Tahoe, maybe next summer...”Surprise honey, you’ll be riding home to Philadelphia in a 40 year old BMW with the guy who couldn’t make it 11 hours on an airplane.”
"WilliamsSW" (williamssw)
04/25/2017 at 23:19, STARS: 0
No, the X3 hasn’t really been troublesome. It’s had a cracked windshield (chip, which popped into a 5 foot crack), blown tire, and the TPMS is really intrusive. That’s really it. There are just certain things about it that she doesn’t like. It’s not my cup of tea, either, but I like it better than the competitors at least. It’s really quick, too- has the 6, not the 4. A lot quicker than my GS. Both are leases expiring in the next 12 months, so we’ll have to do something. I’m inclined to buy a less expensive DD (this is my 1st/last lease) probably a year or two old, so I can put the savings toward a better 2nd/3rd car.
I hear you on buying a bit of a worn car - I’m happy to do some mechanical work, especially if I can save $$ on the front end purchase. I don’t want a trailer queen, either - if it looks good from 10-20 feet, I’m good. What I don’t want to deal with, though, is rust/body work. Which leads me to your comment about West Coast cars - - when I get serious, I may focus more on cars out there. The lack of rust is why I would look there, but also, they seem to be cheaper, probably even when you factor in the drive/shipping/trailering back to Chicago. Anything well worn around here will be rusty - it’s a given. There’s no way on earth my wife would drive back from California with me in an old car, but I have a buddy that I might be able to talk into the trip. He’s been egging me on to buy a car to autocross, and would be interested, at least—