by "HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
Published 04/04/2017 at 14:01
by "HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
Published 04/04/2017 at 14:01
No Tags
STARS: 4
So I’ve been recently thinking of parting with my beloved 80 series for something with a little less age on its seats, plastics and rubber. I don’t really like the prospect on account of the emotional attachment I form with cars, especially cars as good as the 80. I mean even with major brake issues on account of ATF instead of DOT3 it still killed it off roading this last week once we got it flushed out. And its hard to not love a car thats literally been my shelter and safe haven on more than one occasion.
However some recent data has me rethinking the choice to hang onto it. I friend of mine just sold his 80 series, with similar miles and condition but without the re-gear or the cooling system upgrades, or the top end work and he got nearly 11 grand for it. 11 grand! for a 22 year old (his was a 95) 250,000 mile truck! I think I could ask and get 13k for mine on account of the better mechanical condition of the engine, its relative lack of rust and its relatively nice interior condition. (with these trucks its ALL relative)
For 13 grand I would have made back all I put into it easily and would be well on my way to a nice 150k 100 series cruiser to start building up.
I guess 80 series are just THAT hot right now.
I wouldn’t get all the hard core of the 80 in a 100 series, but truthfully this recent trip has taught me that:
1. I rarely use the extra awesome
2. I generally prefer touring with less demanding crawling anyway
So sell the 80, get a 100, invest about $4000 in tires, lift, armor, electrical, etc and have a great touring right that isn’t suffering in the age department as bad as my truck (its not the miles, its just the age of things like the leather, the plastic connectors, the rubber fittings, etc...mechanically its still very sound)
Thoughts?
Im even tempted to put in a little more and find a 200 series, purely on account of the fact that I like the idea of using a 200 to tour in.
"DipodomysDeserti" (dipodomysdeserti)
04/04/2017 at 14:05, STARS: 2
I say strike while the iron is hot.
"Noah - Now with more boost." (antriebverliebt)
04/04/2017 at 14:08, STARS: 0
13k!? That’s an insane price for an old trail rig, but I believe it. I can see why you’re torn though. It’s impossible to replace a car that got you through dark periods of your life but sometimes one has to go so you can drive another...
"Vicente Esteve" (vicente-esteve)
04/04/2017 at 14:08, STARS: 0
Id say go for it.
"MasterMario - Keeper of the V8s" (mastermario)
04/04/2017 at 14:09, STARS: 0
I’d sell...that’s crazy money for what it is. I was thinking $8k at most before I saw your numbers.
"Nothing" (nothingatalluseful)
04/04/2017 at 14:09, STARS: 0
I’ve definitely seen a split here in pricing. The lower end 80s are dirt cheap, but those are the neglected ones that will need a lot to get them respectable. The higher end on 80s just seems to keep going higher. I’ve seen the 100s drop to a price point where I’m tempted (I’m always tempted, though, and seldom follow through).
For you, it sounds more and more like moving into a newer Cruiser is an eventuality and not simply tire kicking. I’d get on it sooner, so you can easily find the 100s with fewer miles at the price you’d like. Dealing with less crumbling rubber, splitting leather, and cracking plastic bits is a definite bonus.
"Stapleface" (patrickgruden)
04/04/2017 at 14:09, STARS: 0
It kind of sounds like a no brainer to me. But, then the question becomes how well will you know the 100 or 200? You know exactly everything wrong with your current 80 series.
How would you feel (completely hypothetical, don’t know pricing) to drop 10k on a 100 series only to find out that there’s still something major wrong with it you didn’t know about? That would be my biggest concern. How is parts availability? Is the aftermarket for the 100 and 200 series just as robust as the 80? Is there anything that you could take off of your current rig and use with a newer model?
"Dr. Zoidberg - RIP Oppo" (thetomselleck)
04/04/2017 at 14:12, STARS: 0
Sell sell sell!
"TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts." (thebloody)
04/04/2017 at 14:13, STARS: 0
I’m the same as you when it comes to vehicles, in the last 15 years I’ve sold a grand total of 1 car (my 1991 Jetta ecodiesel I used in college). I’m looking to offload the Jag right now and it’s actually kind of upsetting me. I find I’m having internal debates listing all the good qualities of the car and why I shouldn’t sell it because “what if the next owner doesn’t take care of it?”
That being said, $13k is nothing to sneeze at and it will go a long way towards an overlander. I say do it, treat yo self to something nice and comfortable. Although I guarantee you’re going to regret it, but I think that would be given regardless of the situation.
"Saracen" (manualdoucheelitist)
04/04/2017 at 14:13, STARS: 0
That sounds like really good money. If you want an FJ100 that badly then go for it.
"benjrblant" (benjblant)
04/04/2017 at 14:17, STARS: 0
I mean even with major brake issues on account of ATF instead of DOT3
I didn’t get the deets on this, are you saying that your mech used ATF instead of DOT?
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
04/04/2017 at 14:17, STARS: 1
yeah thats just it. I KNOW I will regret it, but it still might be the best choice.
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
04/04/2017 at 14:18, STARS: 0
yup. There right now getting fully inspected, flushed and all parts suspect replaced.
"benjrblant" (benjblant)
04/04/2017 at 14:19, STARS: 2
holy shit.
Right about how, I’d start second guessing everything that guy has touched.
"TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts." (thebloody)
04/04/2017 at 14:21, STARS: 0
Yeah and if you ever want to get a rock crawler again, Wranglers are way cheaper.
"benjrblant" (benjblant)
04/04/2017 at 14:25, STARS: 0
Yay for semi-float Dana 35's!
"vicali" (vicali)
04/04/2017 at 14:29, STARS: 2
Lol, sounds about right.. same thing with Tacomas;
bro1; “Look at this super nice 2005, I can get it for $15,000, I’ve always wanted one..
bro2; “Some sucker want to pay me $15,000 for my 2005 - I could take that and get a 2015 for $35,000!”
bro3; “Some sucker want to pay me $35,000 for my 2015 - I could take that and get a 2017 for $48,000!
Toyota;
"benjrblant" (benjblant)
04/04/2017 at 14:30, STARS: 1
UZJ100.
"That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms" (thatbastardkurtis5)
04/04/2017 at 14:30, STARS: 0
I kinda wonder how high the 80s are going to go. $12k for your truck is a lot of cash back, but if they appreciate more will it be $15k soon? If the 60s are any indication though, good ones will get into the 20s...people are already asking it for super nice ones.
Like you I often think that I might be better off with something else and profit from the ridiculous 80 series market in my pocket (especially because off roading isn’t easy to do in RI), but then I get in it and it’s just so much better built than anything else I’ve owned that I don’t think I want something else.
That said, I might trade mine for a 100 series. 85% of the capability with nicer road manners and more power for towing doesn’t sound too bad.
"TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts." (thebloody)
04/04/2017 at 14:31, STARS: 1
Hey, I said they were cheap...
"benjrblant" (benjblant)
04/04/2017 at 14:33, STARS: 1
Classic.
"Textured Soy Protein" (texturedsoyprotein)
04/04/2017 at 14:34, STARS: 2
Crackpot idea: sell the 80 and buy a 2001-2002 Montero Limited with the rear LSD and no traction control. You can find a sub-100k mile example for like 6-8 grand, and just need to make sure to do a timing belt job on them, or confirm it’s been done recently.
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
04/04/2017 at 14:35, STARS: 0
turns out it was a vendor problem. They refilled the brake flush tank with ATF, they caught it, but not after a few trucks like mine had been through.
"Wrong Wheel Drive (41%)" (rduncan5678)
04/04/2017 at 14:39, STARS: 0
I’m of the opinion that I would rather stick with what I already know is mechanically sound and rust-free and just continue to repair and replace. Going to another one just kinda leaves so many question marks and new things to break and leave you stranded. But it makes sense if you are actually looking for a change, now could be the chance. It is possible they could continue to appreciate further though so you never know. Essentially while depreciation is nonexistent, you are driving a free car!
"benjrblant" (benjblant)
04/04/2017 at 14:46, STARS: 0
Just don’t tell anyone that the FF/RR diff lock switch doesn’t go to anything. That’s a $2k switch.
"That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms" (thatbastardkurtis5)
04/04/2017 at 14:52, STARS: 1
Hahaha. On one of the LC groups I’m in on Facebook a guy bought a ‘locked’ 80. Found out later the switch was wired to power so the dash lit up, but the truck didn’t have lockers. Whoops.
Mine actually has the front and rear lockers...I can’t imagine when I’ll ever have to use them, but damn it I’ve got them. Horray resale value!
"benjrblant" (benjblant)
04/04/2017 at 15:04, STARS: 1
Only reason i/we could afford ours is because it didn’t come with front and rear lockers. We wheel it pretty regularly in the Rockies and it’s been remarkably capable even without.
"DipodomysDeserti" (dipodomysdeserti)
04/04/2017 at 15:09, STARS: 0
+1 broken C clip
"DipodomysDeserti" (dipodomysdeserti)
04/04/2017 at 15:10, STARS: 1
You wouldn’t understand.
"TheBloody, Oppositelock lives on in our shitposts." (thebloody)
04/04/2017 at 15:11, STARS: 0
;)
"That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms" (thatbastardkurtis5)
04/04/2017 at 15:17, STARS: 0
Oh totally, even without lockers it’s about as capable as it comes. I got lucky on mine in that the seller wasn’t selling it for ‘locked low mileage rust free Land Cruiser’ price, just for ‘20 year old SUV we don’t need anymore’ price.
I’ve only ever turned the lockers on in a parking lot, and only to see if they worked. So the money I just spent on a CDL switch is a total waste, but eh, I wanted it.
"benjrblant" (benjblant)
04/04/2017 at 15:24, STARS: 1
CDL can be pretty helpful. Consider the pin-7 mod with it- this prevents the truck from auto-engaging the CDL in low range. Good to exercise the lockers every so often even if its just a quick engage and disengage.
"Cash Rewards" (cashrewards)
04/04/2017 at 15:35, STARS: 0
Sound like sell to me, but like others have said, you know all potential issues with the truck you got. As long as you know what the most expensive problem spot on the new truck is, and can afford to handle it in the worst case scenario, then do it.
"shop-teacher" (shop-teacher)
04/04/2017 at 16:24, STARS: 0
Sounds like a no-brainer to me. I know with the emotional component of a vehicle it isn’t really that simple though. Considering how you use your Cruiser, those little electrical gremlins and connector failures can really ruin a trip when you’re in the middle of nowhere. To my mind, getting a newer one lets you do more of the kind of thing you want to do with more peace of mind. Also, I’m sure you will end up building the same attachment to that one as well.
"VCeXpedition" (dan80n100)
04/04/2017 at 16:28, STARS: 1
That makes me feel better about using DOT4 fluid, I was worried for a minute! Is there any recompense for the cost and inconvenience you’ve had? I can imagine they will say, ‘sorry’ but we can’t be liable for that...
Re: the topic. You know my feelings, I’m an ‘80 guy, even though I also have a 100, I really like to drive the ‘80, I know the differences entirely, and the ‘80 is built to a world spec that is not matched by anything else Toyota has ever made, or will make for that matter, at least in the US market. The 200 is a nice choice but it’s becoming a very capable soft-roader unless you put in serious money for suspension and protection. And there’s lots of electronic trickery to make you feel capable. Kurt has built a nice one, buy his when he tires of it!
Don’t stop at a 100, get a 200 and have it for that much longer. For what you do, it might be perfect... and oh, that 5.7L! Mmmmm, good.
I will still wheel with you, I got your back if you get in too far. And, I figure my ‘80 can double as a casket when my time has come, just need a bigger hole in the ground!
"That Bastard Kurtis - An Attempt to Standardize My Username Across Platforms" (thatbastardkurtis5)
04/04/2017 at 16:35, STARS: 0
I was planning to do that this weekend, actually. Free mods are my favorite mods.
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
04/04/2017 at 16:37, STARS: 0
They are doing “whatever it takes” to make it work plus giving me a shop credit. We’ll see how far that goes but they feel pretty bad about it and want to make it right. interesting you say not to go for a 100 series.
"WiscoProud" (wiscoproud)
04/04/2017 at 17:09, STARS: 0
Its an interesting conundrum. I’ve had the same thought about selling my 100 (165k miles) for something else.
If you do switch to a 100, I would recommend the 2003+ so you get the five speed transmission. The lower first gear is wonderful once you put bigger tires on it. I believe the 2006 and 2007 all have AHC, so if you want to avoid that 2003-2005 might be your sweet spot.
I like the 200s, but to get one with under 100k miles you need to spend about $30k. At 150k miles, you start seeing them at $25k. Its a great vehicle, but that’s a lot of coin. I got my 2004 with 112k miles for $19k, which seemed fair to me. I just have a hard time spending $30k for a vehicle with 100k miles, even if I know how good they are.
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
04/04/2017 at 17:13, STARS: 0
yeah, its going to be a difficult decision.
"mtdrift" (mtdrift)
04/05/2017 at 14:22, STARS: 0
Yeah man, I think your left brain is on to something here - 80 prices on the rise, 100 prices still fairly reasonable, the bridge is there right now. Your right brain, however.... I feel ya’.
"Rufant" (rufant2)
04/05/2017 at 16:31, STARS: 0
‘That makes me feel better about using DOT4 fluid’
Over DOT3 I take it? I recently did a flush on mine and the book called for DOT3, having only used DOT4 in the past I thought DOT3 was phased out years ago. However it seems you can still get it, so I wondered what the difference was and if I should use that? This was the most useful information I found.
http://www.penriteoil.com.au/tech_pdfs/87_DOT%203%20and%20DOT%204.pdf
Do you have anything extra to add? Is DOT3 preferable in a 2001 105 series?
Cheers.