by "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
Published 03/30/2017 at 22:41
by "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
Published 03/30/2017 at 22:41
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So I was looking into those A/C recharge kits that come with just the bottle that has it’s own gauge and hose/attachment. Here’s the directions btw.
Apparently you just attach it to the low pressure port. Adjust the dial for temperature (not including humidity.) Then fill till you get the ideal pressure.
This raises a question for me though. Do all r-134a systems have the same pressures? I would’ve though each manufacturer would have different specs, but A/C pro even has a chart , which they imply is good for all vehicles.
My second question is, are the recharge kits even worth it? I’ve read people saying that if there’s a leak, air’s getting into the system and a recharge is just delaying an inevitable failure. Not to mention that the sealer inside them that is meant to fix small leaks. Assuming it can even fix small leaks. Does that stuff pose any threat to the A/C system? It sounds like it works on the same principle as tire slime, but in the A/C system you have moving parts and tolerances you don’t have with the inside of a tire.
One last question. Does anyone know definitely when r-134 was mandated or if some cars adopted it early? I ask because my car’s a ‘95. And I’ve heard that r-134 was introduced in ‘93/4/5/6. Although I’m inclined to believe the people saying ‘96 are getting confused with OBD II, possibly.
PS: I’m not necessarily having any trouble with my A/C atm, but I’m going to be doing as proper of an A/C test as I can this weekend; because I suspect something.
"My X-type is too a real Jaguar" (TomSlick)
03/30/2017 at 22:51, STARS: 2
If you still get cool air out of the vent not cold they work fine. If it is hot you have to have the system professionally charged to get all the air out. Some kits have a leak sealant in the gas. I had to use on once a year on my Jag it was easy and cost effective.
"Eric @ opposite-lock.com" (theyrerolling)
03/30/2017 at 23:03, STARS: 1
I’ve had decent luck with them when the system is still functional. They’re useless if the system has gone truly tits up, though.
As for whether it’s R-134a: I believe R-12 was used through 1992 in some holdouts and R-134a was mandated from 1993-onward. My parents have two vehicles that take R-12 and 3 that take R-134a. Both that take R-12 were built in the 1980s. The earliest car using R-134a they own was built in 1992. I have never owned a car that took R-12 and my first car was built in 1994.
"ITA97, now with more Jag @ opposite-lock.com" (ita97)
03/30/2017 at 23:31, STARS: 6
Forgive me oppo, but this is one of my soapbox topics. Those low-side gauge kits they sell are a terrible idea. I come at this for two reasons: Charging A/C on your car is one of the few things (along with compressing springs) that can actually kill you if it goes wrong. The other reason is that with these kits you are blind to what is happening on the high-side of the system. You only have half of the data.
This is a problem. If you have a weak compressor (which would be indicated by too small of a difference between high and low-side pressures), you would never know. That low-side gauge would actually lead you to believe the system is overcharged. If you have incompressibles in a contaminated system, that pressure fluctuation may be more likely to be noticeable on the high-side than on the low. More importantly, if you had a blockage in an expansion valve or orifice tube, you wouldn’t know it. The low-side only gauge would always read low and could induce you into believing the system was low in refrigerant. This could induce you to overcharge the system until either the high-side relief blows, or something else in the system actually blows up.
The pressures indicated on those gauges are a little misleading. They are more useful as guide, than as I bible. The best way to charge as system is by weight, and not pressure. Pressures are influenced by many things. In the absence of that, you can get in the ballpark on pressure, but you want to be conservative.
If the system has pressure in it, then air is not getting in yet. It is only if you have a system which has no pressure, or low side pressure dropping below atmospheric that will draw air in. If you’ve got a system that has pressure, you can usually charge it by pressure and get adequate performance out of it for awhile. In that case, you charge to conservative pressures. You want to use a thermometer in the (usually) center vent, and only charge until you see good vent temps. Also make sure you are only charging gas and not liquid. (other than initial, engine off charging through the high-side) Slugging a compressor is not only bad for the compressor, but potentially dangerous for the person charging.
A better way to go is to read up on refrigeration and get a good basic understanding of automotive systems. Then pick up a manifold gauge set. I can’t recommend the Harbor Freight one, but amazon has a variety of descent quality manifolds for less than $100.
As to the years you asked about, I think 94 was when 134a was mandated. Some vehicles had it before that. For what is was originally equipped with, there should be a sticker under the hood detailing the refrigerant used and the system capacity. Also look at the ports. R-12 and R-134a ports are different. If you see adapters on the system, investigate further. They could mean that someone has converted the system (and there should be a conversion label under the hood indicating the same), but it could also mean that someone put adapters on so they could use their gauge set and charged a different refrigerant. Not all newer gauge sets come with R-12 couplers (and visa versa).
"gmporschenut also a fan of hondas" (gmporschenut)
03/30/2017 at 23:39, STARS: 2
used them twice. one time to recharge a 10 year old car. worked fine after.
the second time, well. first I used the glow die. nothing so I thought ok give the recharge a try. for a while nothing then i checked with the the glow light again
It looked like a scene from csi.
backstory was i had hit the remnants of a truck tire and had super fucked up the ac condenser.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
03/30/2017 at 23:44, STARS: 0
Thanks for the in-depth reply! Also just one more question of clarification.
You said to add gas on the low side with the engine running; and liquid on the high side with the engine off. I’ve seen canisters that have the refrigerant and compressor oil mixed together. Would something like that be safe to add on the low side? Furthermore, if it’s just a small leak would it even be necessary to add compressor oil or would refrigerant alone be enough?
"ITA97, now with more Jag @ opposite-lock.com" (ita97)
03/30/2017 at 23:59, STARS: 1
You only really charge liquid through the high side when charging a completely empty system (achieved by turning the can upside down, otherwise never turn it past 90 degrees). In topping up a low system, it never comes into play. Those oil and gas mixtures (or just charging a 3oz can of oil) are fine to charge through the low-side. On a car with a slow leak, adding some oil isn’t a bad idea. If gas is leaking out, then oil has been too. Charging gas from 12oz. cans can take awhile for the system to suck in. Putting the bottom of the can in warm water, or using a hair dryer can greatly speed up charging, but be careful. Heating a can too much would cause pressure to rise to dangerous levels within.
"Frank Grimes" (FrankGrimes)
03/31/2017 at 00:08, STARS: 1
This is a video related to the subject that helped me understand AC recharging.
!!! UNKNOWN CONTENT TYPE !!!
"ITA97, now with more Jag @ opposite-lock.com" (ita97)
03/31/2017 at 00:23, STARS: 2
I forgot to mention the stop leak stuff. That is an elastomer that acts to swell o-rings. If you have leak at an o-ring, it might buy you some time. For the most part it won’t help you, and there are some good arguments out there for not introducing extra stuff into an A/C system. If you were taking an exam, the correct answer would be to only use dye to find a leak, evacuate the system, repair the leak, verify it holds a vacuum and then charge with only oil and refrigerant.
"Nibbles" (nibbles)
03/31/2017 at 02:08, STARS: 0
used that exact brand on the Dakota. Worked like a champ. Still holding pressure too after 6 months
i may be an anecdote but it is what it is
"OpposResidentLexusGuy - USE20, XF20, XU30 and Press Cars" (jakeauern)
03/31/2017 at 03:33, STARS: 1
At shops, the A/C system has to be specially prepared to accept these. Otherwise, it completely clogs the machine and cost thousands of dollars to fix for the shop. Please do not use one of these and just get it repaired the correct way by an actual mechanic. Especially if you don’t want your mechanic to hate you forever.