by "RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
Published 03/29/2017 at 09:35
by "RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
Published 03/29/2017 at 09:35
No Tags
STARS: 3
Temperature sending unit, all hoses, coolant, solders/splices for temp gauge, main ignition, and oil pressure wires, gauge voltage regulator, and carburetor (rebuilt). As a note, an Autolite/Motorcraft 2100 is very easy to rebuild.
Carb kit was ~$20, sensor was ~$5, rad hoses were ~$30 each, small elbow hose was $5, regulator was $55, and I used some existing 5/8" heater hose for the heater lines. This thing is cheap to work on, but nickel-and-diming is a thing.
Also, the engine bay is cavernous, but you probably knew that. The suspension doesn’t rise appreciably above the frame rails, so there aren’t even big wheel well intrusions.
Here’s one with... much more engine than mine, and you could still fit three sacks of grain next to the engine on the driver’s side.
"KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs" (kusabisensei)
03/29/2017 at 09:45, STARS: 1
You ain’t got nothing on the nickel and diming of anything GM made.
#butyouknewthatalready
"Demon-Xanth knows how to operate a street." (demon-xanth)
03/29/2017 at 09:57, STARS: 1
This is a 1972 Monte Carlo with a big block, headers, and only fender liners removed. I’m pretty sure you can fit a twin six in there by only cutting the fan shroud.
An ISB fits right in!
!!! UNKNOWN CONTENT TYPE !!!
These days you’re lucky to even see the engine itself.
"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
03/29/2017 at 10:06, STARS: 0
You could absolutely remove the fender liners on the Galaxie, but you would need to be doing Things Man Was Not Meant To Know in there to ever need to. Although in traditional Ford WTF?! fashion, one fender liner is much more roomy than the other.
"Demon-Xanth knows how to operate a street." (demon-xanth)
03/29/2017 at 10:11, STARS: 0
Look at the side the intakes would be if it had a straight six. Might make sense.
"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
03/29/2017 at 10:11, STARS: 1
In GM’s defense, they never made a suspension bolt that’s a crank and fits inside another bolt which fits inside the frame and swings back and forth on its threads as a bearing surface so that the wheel can steer itself independently from steering input. Which, small wonder, can cost a lot of money to try to unfuxxor.
"BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires" (biturbo228)
03/29/2017 at 10:16, STARS: 0
Nice! What’s left to do on it?
"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
03/29/2017 at 10:22, STARS: 0
By freak chance, that happens to be correct - because the Galaxie was using the 223 and had not moved to the 240 yet. Which means:
Granted, there’s still no actual reason for that much space in most installs, except for the following:
The ‘59 had a grotesquerie on the side to fit under the lower hood, and I think the liners in the ‘63/’64 are unchanged from ‘60-’62, so a designer may have been making room for the older filter style that he didn’t have to make.
But - if that be the case, why is it not that way on both sides?
"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
03/29/2017 at 10:32, STARS: 0
Mechanically speaking, I’ve got to make sure the fuel sender is actually working properly. I’ve got some kind of response, not sure of the accuracy. Also, I’ve got to sort out the meat-headed nonsense with the front suspension cranks and their bushings, make sure the rear brakes are working (I suspect not) and replace front shocks. Then, a quick pull of the trans to replace a front seal and replace the filter screen and pan gasket.
Past that, cosmetically/body-wise I’ve got to do carpets, headliner, door seals, a window track repair, and tread plates, with a quick repaint of the floorboards and a fix to a hole in the floor. Then, a hole in the trunk and a bit of rust repair around the edge.
The trans hadn’t been upshifting from 1st-2nd (in 1-2-3 mode) and from 2-3 in 2-3 mode, at least not every time, but there was a spring missing outright from the kickdown link. Blimey, I wonder if the transmission being in kickdown might’ve had a thing or two to do with that...
"Demon-Xanth knows how to operate a street." (demon-xanth)
03/29/2017 at 10:36, STARS: 0
Wasn’t freak chance at all. They design for all the engines they expect to be put in, occasionally even if said engines never actually make it in. When they don’t, shoehorning happens. The Shelby Dakota had an electric cooling fan because the V8 took up the space that the crank fan used.
In 1992, they made the fenders 3" longer and the V8 became a standard option.
"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
03/29/2017 at 11:09, STARS: 0
I said “freak chance” because if not coincidental it’s certainly incidental that the packaging was done that way. The packaging was done that way despite not actually needing to be in the least, and comes off as more of a conceit than a concession. The largest “chance” element is that they had the ability to have both fenders cut down, the need to cut down neither, no reason not to cut down both if cutting down one, and just happened to decide to cut down only one, based on what was largely whim.
If they hadn’t had a nearly complete platform replace in the works for ‘65, they’d have stabbed themselves in the back by doing it that way, because the Thriftpower family 240 is, get this, the other way around. I guess they never considered that they’d be replacing the 223 with something like that... despite the fact that the first Thriftpowers were designed at the same time as this thing.
So, in summary, they *could* have cut down both fenders, they had giant FE engines already that they were putting in and knew it would help, but only cut down one, because the already lonely I6 needed EVEN MORE access space.... maybe. In the designer’s head.
"KusabiSensei - Captain of the Toronto Maple Leafs" (kusabisensei)
03/29/2017 at 11:14, STARS: 0
That’s because they forgot to *hire* the cranks that were applying for jobs at the time.
"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
03/29/2017 at 11:33, STARS: 0
Cranks designing cranks? That would make sense.
"BiTurbo228 - Dr Frankenstein of Spitfires" (biturbo228)
03/29/2017 at 11:36, STARS: 0
So just a few little things then ;) how much of the rust-work is cosmetic stuff and how much (if any, knowing US vehicle checks) is needed for roadworthiness?
Also, good lord that weird little crank suspension thing is utterly bizarre. It actually makes some of the BL-designed stuff in the 70s actually look like solid engineering practice. At least most of those issues were either QC-related or a result of incomplete testing, rather than intentionally bloody stupid .
How hard is a swap to the later style suspension wholesale? It’s in these cases that subframe-mounted suspension is a wonder as you can whip the whole thing across no problem.
"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
03/29/2017 at 11:54, STARS: 0
It’s considered roadworthy now. It never went officially out of the system, though it went a time unregistered, and I’ve got a license tag on it, because to transfer a title for a running vehicle is that simple here. Anything considered antique is clear of inspection unless it’s just been put together after a non-running title had been issued, and if it was a non-runner, it only ever gets that one more inspection in its life - a man from the tag agency comes out and makes sure it’s not a solid mass of malfunctioning rust and nobody’s fiddled with the serial plates.
There’s rust spotting on some of the chrome, there’s chips and whatnot on the edges of the trunk and hood, and a thin layer of surface rust on a good bit of the underside. If I fix the two holes and the seal retainer edge on the trunk, most of the rust just needs a little sanding and paint (or just a quick seal) to be right as rain.
The intentional bloody stupidity actually makes it quite interesting to drive, as there’s a moment of relaxed tension right as one begins to cut the wheel, and it stabilizes out of bumps as if they weren’t there - but goodness me the wandering at speed. A swap to the later suspension isn’t practical because the track rod mount points are different, but this lot with the cranks I’m going to try to fix in the original Ford-approved way, with a cross-brace. Not only the cheapest (if I can salvage my cranks), but preserves a bare tiny bit of crank function for the nice low-speed qualities.
It makes me wonder, what it is they’d done with the ‘64 we saw at Brands Hatch. Might have had a straight-bolt swap, might have had a brace. I didn’t know to look for something that peculiar when we were in the paddock, as I hadn’t the faintest idea it existed. I know the Mercury had blocks under the shock towers and no Shelby drop because class requirements would prohibit moving a suspension mount point...
"RallyWrench" (rndlitebmw)
03/29/2017 at 14:07, STARS: 0
Nice. It may be nickel and diming money and time, but it’s still cool as hell. I loved looking up parts for the Fairlane, because holy shit everything in that world is much cheaper than the one I inhabit every day, and thinking about working on it was great because pretty much everything is easy compared to Ze Germans. But the time to do all that little stuff added up to time I don’t have on a nightly basis. Solution: Sell everything and buy the best Galaxie I can find, daily that.
"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
03/29/2017 at 14:28, STARS: 0
I’d say “eventually you may have to buy mine”, except that I’ve been wanting one for eons. Ians, even. Probably will not be turning loose for a while.
Did you notice I actually found an SBF-as-installed-in-Galaxie cooling diagram?
Meanwhile on the Deutche Parts front, I have noise in my vacuum pump, I believe, which makes me suspect that I ought to rebuild or replace. Not aware of any rebuild options, which means a new Febi for $273 or improved design Pierburg for $320. FMR. Genuine is north of $500, which haha no. I also appear to have obtained either tire noise or front wheel bearing noise, which isn’t quite as bad because those front bearings at least overlap with some ‘Merica cars.
Anyway, between that and my turbo being hors de combat at least in part, I’m rapidly reaching the “cheaper to prioritize repairs on Galaxie” point, if I haven’t already. Not even counting new tires needed soon.
I need to stop the Galaxie leaking water into the interior, though. New door seals have moved above headliner in the priorities list - to be honest I kind of expected that - and definitely remain above carpet because I need to fix the floor spot and keep the new carpet dry... Still, new front door (the critical ones because retarded seal line) are $124 a pair. Could be worse.
"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
03/29/2017 at 14:38, STARS: 0
Also: you may have seen in my responses to BiTurbo that I added a spring to the carb linkage when doing the carb. I thought it was a throttle pedal return spring, as the pedal had stayed down at one point oddly. Heh - actually a spring on the kickdown lever. I wonder why it didn’t want to 2-3 upshift half the time...
"RallyWrench" (rndlitebmw)
03/29/2017 at 14:52, STARS: 0
If I’m going to do one, it may as well be a 2-door because I like the lines better, and who doesn’t like 36 foot long doors? That’s a rapidly moving price point though, and the right 4-door could do the trick. I didn’t look at the cooling diagram closely at first, that is notably different than the FE, which can be seen from space.
I might be able to save you some monies on the vacuum pump if you send me your VIN or the part number, looks like there’s a split with two different part numbers for W124 diesels, but I can get you either of the Pierburgs for $264 (I have to pay 10% over shop cost of $240). Still about the same as the Febi to you with shipping from here. BTW my rule with Febi and Meyle is that if fluid or electrons flow through it, it’s a piece of shit.
My Fairlane leaked like a sieve (I mean, hence the Flintstone floors...) from the windshield, all doors and windows, front cowl, rear window, and taillights. Maybe even the license plates, I mean every time I drove that thing in the rain it was a shitshow. Poverty spec rubber mats & floor FTW.
"RallyWrench" (rndlitebmw)
03/29/2017 at 15:00, STARS: 0
So it was just stuck in kickdown, and it stuck the throttle? That’d be a little spooky.
"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
03/29/2017 at 15:12, STARS: 0
I have typically been ordering parts for teh Benzor from FCPEuro, because it’s about the cheapest for a reliable source that I have - I don’t do enough business with the Benz Store in Atlanta to have any great discounts (thought that’d still be my used parts go-to), and the local Asheville
City Foreign Auto
are a bit pricey most of the time. I have access to shop rates at the local NAPA and O’Reilly, but
loik fook
they’d have the pump, I imagine, and probably not at RockAuto/FCP level prices even with discount.
If you’re showing two parts numbers for the Pierburgs, it’s probably with one of them being the older style and one of them being improved - supposedly the newer style is more robust. I may have to look at FCP’s number and send you that to make sure. I’ve got your email if I get around to it and git a brane.
As far as I know the windshield isn’t leaking in the Galaxie, but the doors, very yes. Any rain along the A-pillars or uppers parts of the doors has to travel down the seal, which is crap, and has a funky molded section that doglegs at only about 30 degrees up from flat about five inches long. If that’s not most of the leaking I’ll eat my hat (figuratively). Also in parallel with that piece on the inner part of the door there’s a completely independent 6" piece of rubber that does some possibly noise-cancelling inscrutable thing because it’s a fucking Ford and that’s how this goes.
I’m only flintstoney in one place in the trunk and (as far as I know) one place in the passenger floor, because it was kept fairly well covered. the Galaxie was of course made of thin metal just like the Fairlane and of course the exterior zinc powder blasting does fuck all against interior moisture...
"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
03/29/2017 at 15:17, STARS: 0
Well the kickdown link is sort of separate and can’t stick the throttle itself (probably). That would be up to other elements sticking. Not sure which. The linkage return is some kind of ghettoed thing and there may still be a spring missing. The kickdown link, on the other hand, was just kind of doing its own thing, pogoing around a little, so any time it was climbing a little bit, the transmission was told that 3rd was a no-no. I think.