by "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
Published 03/13/2017 at 19:32
by "DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
Published 03/13/2017 at 19:32
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So I’m considering looping (Removing the pump) my power steering pump. My reasons 1) The steering gets scarily light on the highway. 2) More feedback bro. 3) Get those arm gains since I don’t have a gym membership.
My main concern is if it’ll damage the rack. Supposedly the method listed on da forums will leave enough fluid to lubricate it, but it won’t be filled with fluid ( Source.)
What does Oppo think? I ask y’all because I trust y’all more than any other group of weirdos on the internet, at least when it comes to cars... and romance.
"TahoeSTi" (tahoesti)
03/13/2017 at 19:40, STARS: 2
Why not just get a manual rack? Can’t you pull one from a civic or something? or even aftermarket?
"interstate366, now In The Industry" (interstate366)
03/13/2017 at 19:41, STARS: 3
I’ve been thinking about doing it myself, because my power steering system has been nothing but trouble from day one, and an electric power steering conversion on a Prelude is basically uncharted territory.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
03/13/2017 at 19:44, STARS: 0
I could, but if this is safe I’d like to do this for a while before I commit to swapping the rack.
"TahoeSTi" (tahoesti)
03/13/2017 at 19:45, STARS: 1
A manual rack and a power steering rack with no power isn’t going to feel the same....you could just put a short belt on it and not run the pump.
"StudyStudyStudy" (jesterjin)
03/13/2017 at 19:45, STARS: 2
Steering is still light on the freeway. Once you get going steering a car takes fairly minimal effort.
You will get more feedback, but at the same time you will get more feedback. You hit that bump hard and your wheels dip into it it is going to rip the steering wheel from your grip. Careful with your thumbs if you have a metal spoked wheel.
You will get some gains. It is always fun getting back into a car with power steering after driving around without. You tend to over steer the wheel since you don’t have the same resistance for a while. Parking will suck as will any tight maneuvering you need to do.
Interesting thing I heard about the other day. I don’t think it affects your car as I believe close to or similar models may have come without power steering, but some steering column brackets are not designed for the torque supplied with manual power. The brackets can bend or break.
Looks like here’s a pretty good write up from a simple glance.
http://www.team-integra.net/forum/14-performance/51961-power-2-manual-steering-rack-conversion.html
"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
03/13/2017 at 19:47, STARS: 2
I have nothing to add to this except “manual steering FTW”.
"cluelessk" (cluelessk)
03/13/2017 at 19:54, STARS: 1
Steering getting scary light highway speeds? That’s not a rack issue.
Could be an alignment issue that only shows at speed.
"HFV has no HFV. But somehow has 2 motorcycles" (hondasfordsvolvo)
03/13/2017 at 20:15, STARS: 1
On my 99 Civic all I did was remove the belt, and I never caused a problem. But then you don’t gain any weight advantage
"Demon-Xanth knows how to operate a street." (demon-xanth)
03/13/2017 at 20:15, STARS: 0
Can you put a kind of bypass valve to reduce the assist by an adjustable amount?
"HFV has no HFV. But somehow has 2 motorcycles" (hondasfordsvolvo)
03/13/2017 at 20:17, STARS: 0
In some cases a power rack also has a shorter ratio, so you might actually be better off with a looped power rack.
"Elumerere" (elumerere)
03/13/2017 at 20:23, STARS: 0
Or the front tires are shot.
"RacinBob" (racinbob)
03/13/2017 at 20:31, STARS: 2
My type R is looped for road racing. Not a problem on track, but with 225 tires it has some heft when pulling in and out of pits. As for sensitivity, I dunno if it makes a difference.
It looks like you have good clearance, how about adding some spacers for increased front offset? Also, another handling trick is to reverse the front upper A arms to side to side. It will increase neg caster which will give you more camber and steering load.
I don’t know what wheels and tires or what pressure you are running but your rears look like they want a little more neg camber and tire pressure. And the front spring seems a little soft.
This is 7 years ago on 225 bfg’s on 7" rims on the Carousel at Brainerd. Car is at max (1.2) G at about 60 mph. The rear is about vertical when you consider the lean. Front still has a touch neg camber. Also note my inside rear is off the ground.
Another view
"RacinBob" (racinbob)
03/13/2017 at 20:31, STARS: 0
15" rims
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
03/13/2017 at 20:38, STARS: 0
Interesting. How long did you have it like that? Did you drain any fluid or leave it filled up?
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
03/13/2017 at 20:40, STARS: 0
Oh it’s not my car in the pic lol, mines stock all the way to the hubcaps at the moment. It only has 195s so it should be a little less effort, plus it’s on all seasons because it’s hard to find summer tires for 14" wheels lol.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
03/13/2017 at 20:45, STARS: 0
I looked into it, but all I’ve heard is that it’s very wacky with how much it assists depending on the rpm, steering imput, etc.
"gmctavish needs more space" (gmctavish)
03/13/2017 at 20:47, STARS: 2
My friend deleted the power steering system in his E30, and then switched to an E36 rack. It’s a bit annoying for parallel parking, but other than that he loves it.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
03/13/2017 at 20:47, STARS: 0
Perhaps. I’ll get an alignment check sometime soon.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
03/13/2017 at 20:47, STARS: 0
Nah, all 4 tires are less than a year old and aired up properly.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
03/13/2017 at 20:49, STARS: 1
IIRC that’s exactly the case with the Civics/Integra. Plus I’ve heard the Civic Integra rack swap isn’t as simple as it would seem.
"RacinBob" (racinbob)
03/13/2017 at 21:03, STARS: 2
15 x 7's are the way to go. My faves are the Kosei K1's, $104 at tire rack
Ps, with stock springs, there’s not a lot of stuff you can do to make a difference.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
03/13/2017 at 21:09, STARS: 0
Yeah when I start modding it the first things I’m going to do is rear sway-bar and coilovers, probably Progress. They seem to be great quality and relatively cheap.
http://www.progressauto.com/products/sfID1/133/sfID2/34/sfID3/89/productID/779
3 spring rate choices!
"RacinBob" (racinbob)
03/13/2017 at 21:10, STARS: 0
I’d get some skunk or DC coil-overs. Would make a huge difference.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SKUNK2-Sport-Shocks-Coilovers-94-01-Acura-Integra-DC2-/270792562007
"RacinBob" (racinbob)
03/13/2017 at 21:43, STARS: 1
Hard to say, if the car is basically a street car, springs might be all you need. Try Eibach at tire rack, seems like good reviews. https://www.tirerack.com/suspension/suspensioncomments_all.jsp?make=Eibach&model=Pro-Kit+Spring+Set&autoMake=Acura&autoModel=Integra&autoYear=1997&autoModClar=&group=Pro-Kit+Spring+Set&partNum=4020.140&page=2
Or the eibach combo shock, sways, and springs. I put a lot of value on something that has been reviewed and engineered. The challenge with the coilovers is it’s hard to gauge how well it really works until you get it. My concern is it would be something to stiff, and just plain not really optimized.
"RacinBob" (racinbob)
03/13/2017 at 21:58, STARS: 0
I would get the Eibach shocks instead. Closest review
Vehicle: 1990 Acura Integra
Miles Driven on: 50,000 Location: Menlo Park, CA
Vehicle Miles: 205,000 Driving Style: Spirited
Shocks: KYB GR-2 Chassis Products: N/A
Spring: Eibach Pro-Kit Spring Set Coil-Over: N/A
August 27, 2005
Heads and Tails above stock, GR-2s and Eibach lowering kit are the best money ive ever spent on this car. With 50,000 miles on both i can say that they are good quality and good bang for your buck. Shocks have been bouncy occasionally with bad freeway conditions, but overall responsivness is sufficient for agressive around town and highway driving. Springs lowered ride height to were I wanted it without lots of scraping and bottoming out. The hide is a bit harsh, not the smoothest on bad pavement, but in my mind a good tradoff for the stiffness and lack of body roll in the hard corners. Great Product.
"HFV has no HFV. But somehow has 2 motorcycles" (hondasfordsvolvo)
03/13/2017 at 22:05, STARS: 1
Well I never intended to do it, one day the belt started to fray, so I cut it off, I preferred the feel of the unassisted steering so much I just left it like that. I drove the car probably 6000 miles or so like that before I sold it. Mostly in town, or back road driving, I didn’t do much long distant traveling at the time.
"HFV has no HFV. But somehow has 2 motorcycles" (hondasfordsvolvo)
03/13/2017 at 22:11, STARS: 1
Now that I think about it, as far as I know most older Hondas, shot off the power steering after 25-30mph anyway as it’s not needed as that speed. Maybe that shut off isn’t functioning.
"HFV has no HFV. But somehow has 2 motorcycles" (hondasfordsvolvo)
03/13/2017 at 22:15, STARS: 1
I had a 91 Civic for a long time, which obviously didn’t have power steering. I remember one day after driving my car all day, I hopped in my Wife’s Cavalier, i about threw her out of seat because I accidentally turned too hard, and fast. The difference between old Japanese car with no p/s and American car with over assisted p/s is huge.
"HFV has no HFV. But somehow has 2 motorcycles" (hondasfordsvolvo)
03/13/2017 at 22:16, STARS: 0
It’s one of the reasons my wife’s Fit will never quite be as fun as my old Civic hatch.
"Party-vi" (party-vi)
03/13/2017 at 22:48, STARS: 1
Overdrive your power steering pulley so you still have power steering, but less.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
03/13/2017 at 23:04, STARS: 1
Thanks. I’ll look into that.
"DC3 LS, will be perpetually replacing cars until the end of time" (dc3ls-)
03/13/2017 at 23:06, STARS: 0
That sounds expensive though.
"Party-vi" (party-vi)
03/13/2017 at 23:22, STARS: 0
Put a bigger pulley on your power steering pump. This will make your pump spin slower than it usually would, pushing less fluid through your rack/at a slower rate. I would guess this works. I mean, it works for water pumps and other accessories. Plus you’ll see a boost in power.
"ITA97, now with more Jag @ opposite-lock.com" (ita97)
03/14/2017 at 13:48, STARS: 0
I’ve got the power steering looped on my old Integra racecar. The suction and pressure lines were looped together with the reservoir still plumbed into the system, so fluid can move through as needed. While the lightest route in my case would be to swap in an old CRX subframe and manual rack, I’ve never felt the need to do so. Steering effort is minimal as long as the car is moving. Turning the wheel when the car is stopped with 205/5o or 225/50 race rubber takes a bit of effort.