by "My bird IS the word" (mybirdistheword)
Published 03/06/2017 at 12:00
by "My bird IS the word" (mybirdistheword)
Published 03/06/2017 at 12:00
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I need encouragement/advice.
I am going for a budget rebuild, and I know that I am kinda shooting myself in the foot somewhat. Now that is out of the way.
I have to say I really don’t know what this engine is going to look like on the inside. She could be cherry (since she runs so damn good) or a nightmare. The disassembly doesn’t worry me anymore. My main concern is clearances. I wasn’t planning on doing bearings, just a gasket and accessory change. Upon further analyzation and discussion, it appears I should really redo the rotating assembly as well.
No bullshit, the bearings scare me. I could fuck this up real bad. Do you really need bore gauges and such to effectively figure these out (since I hopefully will be able to reuse my cam and crank, the new bearings wont be automatically sized properly) That is if I decide to do it myself.
Option B: Pay the machine shop to do it. I am assuming if I drop off my block and parts that I could have the pro’s measure it. I already see no reason to buy a honing or ring ridge tool and do the cylinder wall myself. I have no idea what doing that would cost, and I would be cheating myself from learning.....
I know a few people that are knowledgeable, but noone who can physically help me do this. That’s the problem.
I would rather drive the damn thing. That is looking less and less likely. Someday she will get a Pontiac crate motor, but that day is not today.
"crowmolly" (crowmolly)
03/06/2017 at 12:08, STARS: 1
Why do you think you need to tear down the short block? Does it smoke at all when it’s running (not just condensation)?
Can you do a leak down test? How does the oil pressure gauge behave? How about a vacuum gauge?
Just asking these q’s because tearing down to the bare block will put this in another realm of $$. Doing some homework before you take anything off the engine could save time and money in the long run, especially if this isn’t your “final” engine.
"Junkrat aka Rick Sanchez: Fury Road Edition" (realasabass)
03/06/2017 at 12:12, STARS: 1
Pay the machine shop and do final assembly yourself. I wouldn’t fret too much about the learning aspect, you will have forgotten it all in ten years when you might do this again. Plenty of respectable engine builders have a machinist blueprint the internals before final assembly. Pay the damn machinists they are a dying breed. If you really want knowledge check out Ericthecarguy’s videos of his engine at the machine shop.
"Shoop" (shoopdawoop993)
03/06/2017 at 12:15, STARS: 1
As a machinist in training I support this comment.
"For Sweden" (rallybeetle)
03/06/2017 at 12:19, STARS: 0
Look live how you want but don’t ask us to join you in worshipping machines -_-
"My bird IS the word" (mybirdistheword)
03/06/2017 at 12:23, STARS: 0
Honestly, engine runs fine. I haven’t got much time behind the wheel due to various reasons, but It didn’t smoke, and made plenty of power which makes me think the rings and such are fine. I didn’t want to take it down to the bare block at all (because of difficulty) nor did I think I was going to when I bought it. It’s just from my research I know those bearings need replacing. I haven’t done leakdown tests and the like because I feel there is no need. I believe oil pressure was responding normally.
I got a vaccum gauge late last year but considering the condition of most of the hoses I haven’t really bothered just yet. right now the engine mount bolts are out of it (the guy I tried to get to take my manifold bolts out asked me if I wanted them back in since I was going to remove the engine and like an idiot I said no)
The reason I am doing this is because she’s got to come apart some . Oil leaks + the freeze plugs are rusting through. You add that in to the timing chain and everything else and I might as well go crazy while I have the engine out. Still hoping I can get the manifold bolts out.
"My X-type is too a real Jaguar" (TomSlick)
03/06/2017 at 12:24, STARS: 1
Having been through this exact problem with a Chevrolet 454, strip to a short block it yourself, take it to a machine shop have them do the rings, bearings and crank. It is precision work that requires specialized tools. then bring hit home and put it all back together yourself, The shop I used charged $650 to hone the cylinders change the bearings, balance the crank, new rings, and check the entire assembly over for cracks. It was money well spent.
"crowmolly" (crowmolly)
03/06/2017 at 12:33, STARS: 1
Why do you think the bearings need to be replaced?
Gaskets, a cam swap, timing chain, and even freeze plugs can be done without removing the rotating assembly.
If you want to go all out no problem... I just get the feeling that the engine doesn’t need it and that’s money you may want to spend elsewhere. JMHO.
"My bird IS the word" (mybirdistheword)
03/06/2017 at 12:36, STARS: 0
It’s got at least 80k, (because that is when the odometer broke lol) I am going to guess it’s got about 100k miles on it. Given the overall poor condition it seems a certainty to me.
"briannutter1" (briannutter1)
03/07/2017 at 22:00, STARS: 0
You would need to buy a dial bore gauge and micrometers and more to do it right. I’d have the machine shop do the short block for you. You may be able to get away with polishing the crank, but will need to be balanced for the new pistons.
"briannutter1" (briannutter1)
03/07/2017 at 22:06, STARS: 0
Looking at your later comments, I’d hold off on the long block if it’s seals are the big problem. Small hydraulic cam, timing chain, springs seals, intake, street demon 625 and it will purr like a kitten and run for a long time yet.
"My bird IS the word" (mybirdistheword)
03/08/2017 at 01:39, STARS: 0
There isn’t a good reason to build this engine, it’s getting replaced at some point. I just want it to last until then. Given the overall piss poor quality of maintenance this car has received I can guess to a high certainty that the bearings need replacing.