by "nerd_racing" (nerd189)
Published 03/06/2017 at 09:47
by "nerd_racing" (nerd189)
Published 03/06/2017 at 09:47
Tags: English Wheel
; Miata Coupe
; zoom zoom
; body work
STARS: 4
Figure it will help me make some better panels for the RX-4 project. Should reduce welding and filler too!
Here’s my learning piece.
I tightened up the holding screws for the anvil and the pieces came out better. I’m thinking the upper portion of the C frame could use some bracing, but other than that it’s not too bad for my purposes.
I think I need a shrinker and stretcher to rough out the shapes for the quarters though, then I can smooth with the wheel. I thought about building a buck for this project, but I really only need one set of skins.
"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
03/06/2017 at 09:59, STARS: 2
I used a (much less nice) English Wheel on the lower piece here, both sides. I rolled the edge with a bead roller first, then wheeled it. A shrinker-stretcher might help with some of this, but I didn’t need one to get the wheel well outline/flange in place, just careful hammerwork after creasing it where I needed it to fold.
Bottom line - shrinker-stretchers are nice for some kinds of things, but a quarter, I’m not so sure.
"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
03/06/2017 at 10:08, STARS: 3
Second comment: be sure to wheel more curve into the metal and in more steps than you actually need - and be sure to hammer extra stretch in where you need it and then smooth. You want some work-hardening and dome to it to resist it reverting out of stretch/flattening when you install it. I made that mistake, and now have to fight dents that appeared/reappeared in installation.
"Frenchlicker" (frenchlicker)
03/06/2017 at 10:09, STARS: 0
Is this the Harbor Freight one or a nicer, more expensive one? I’ve been toying with buying an HB one in the relatively near future.
"nerd_racing" (nerd189)
03/06/2017 at 10:17, STARS: 1
It’s the harbor freight one. honestly if you are just doing hobby work with it, you can’t beat it. I paid $300 for the wheel and the 6 pc anvil die set. (two trips with 20% off coupons.) They have improved the design a lot over the years, this one has the 90 degree indexable wheel and anvil and the main anvil shaft has set screws to center and stabilize it. The only thing I would add is locking wheels and an Upper C brace.
"nerd_racing" (nerd189)
03/06/2017 at 10:22, STARS: 0
Thank you for the tips! I’ve read up on some threads on the H.A.M.B. about oil canning and they suggested some slight crowning.
My lower quarter rounds to the back at about a 6" radius on the Miata, and the upper is a 3" radius down to that 6" radius to meet the hatch lip. I’m pretty sure I can stretch them out and tap the rough form with a mallet as I go. I still need a shot bag and a mallet, maybe I’ll get those tonight.
"AMGtech - now with more recalls!" (amgtech)
03/06/2017 at 10:26, STARS: 1
Wear gloves and watch your fingers!
Shrinker/stretchers are fantastic. Definitely recommend. Used to have my own, but misplaced in a move years ago. Which sucks because I could’ve used it loads of times since.
Thanks for sharing and keep us updated! Oppo needs more metal work.
"random001" (random001)
03/06/2017 at 10:29, STARS: 0
I have this same thing. I used it in the past. I have no project cars now. I am now sad.
"nerd_racing" (nerd189)
03/06/2017 at 10:38, STARS: 0
Get one! I’ll sell you a clean FB RX7. Higher miles but very original and complete. No rot.
What was your ownership experience like with the HF wheel? did you modify it in any way to make it work better?
"nerd_racing" (nerd189)
03/06/2017 at 10:39, STARS: 2
I bought a heavy set of leather gloves at tractor supply the same day! I don’t mess around with sheet metal without gloves. Thanks for the safety tip though! When I post about it I’ll make sure I use the metal work tag. It’s a very mesmerizing process for sure. I can’t wait to hone my skills more!
"random001" (random001)
03/06/2017 at 10:46, STARS: 0
I have no room in my life at this time, sadly. In 3 years when I’m done with Grad school, maybe. But for now, Abarth life.
Well, I didn’t need to modify it. I had to keep up on the various bolts, though. They seems to get loose faster than I expected, but I just got used to tightening everything up before I would use it, and it worked like a charm.
Best thing I did, though, was go to Dagger tools and take their metal forming class. I learned a lot of things in that class, like how good I am at gas welding. I never knew.
"RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
03/06/2017 at 10:59, STARS: 1
I tried to do the whole curve with the wheel after having torch-heated an area to relieve it - which oil-canned it - and the magical disappearing oil-can which went away during wheeling came back when I had to pull the panel tight. Sonavabitching homemade panel arglebargle.
This may be related to why I recently got a teardrop hammer. Maybe.
"Frenchlicker" (frenchlicker)
03/06/2017 at 11:34, STARS: 1
I’ve read the reviews several times in different places and they all seem to agree with you. Compare it’s price to other hobby level ones and it is amazing even if it does need a little add on. It seems like a good buy regardless. Many tools along these lines that they have are in my opinion though.
"nerd_racing" (nerd189)
03/06/2017 at 12:00, STARS: 1
That was my exact thinking before I bought it. I was more than pleased to see they fixed some of the issues already. I work at a fab shop (I’m not a fabricator) and I can usually pay someone with beer to make something up quick, I’ll do the brace that way.
"AMGtech - now with more recalls!" (amgtech)
03/06/2017 at 15:43, STARS: 0
What welding method are you going to use?
I highly recommend these mechanix fabricator gloves for welding and metal work. Amazing fit, excellent feel for what you’re doing, fantastic freedom of movement, surprisingly good insulation. Been using them for years and haven’t found anything that even comes close to their performance.
"nerd_racing" (nerd189)
03/06/2017 at 15:56, STARS: 0
I’ll give them a try. I bought standard long raw-hide leather gloves.
I have a Hobart Handler MVP 210 mig welding rig right now. It’s not the most efficient but I will probably fumble my way through with that.
"AMGtech - now with more recalls!" (amgtech)
03/06/2017 at 16:02, STARS: 0
That mig is perfectly fine. Just remember to keep the panels cool when welding together and only do tiny little bits at a time. Takes forever but patience is rewarded when doing sheet metal. Mig makes the metal really hard and this very difficult to hammer flat so you want to keep warping to absolute minimum. Tig is the way to go, but obviously that is a lot more expensive and requires a lot more skill.
"nerd_racing" (nerd189)
03/06/2017 at 16:11, STARS: 0
I did some major body work on an old MX3 (rust repair) back in college. It was quite a long time making stitch welds, but it made it through with my old lincoln flux cored welder. I may have used 18 gage back then though. I’ve come a little ways since then, but this is my only other major sheet metal project since.