*Sigh* Now the studs are too short.

Kinja'd!!! by "Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo" (rustyvandura)
Published 02/27/2017 at 16:56

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But Rusty’s not going anywhere and he (she?) is much easier to look at.

Shouldn’t I be able to replace those studs with longer ones and make them 1/2-inch instead of 7/16?


Replies (19)

Kinja'd!!! "RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
02/27/2017 at 17:05, STARS: 1

Very possibly. There are a wide range of shoulder sizes available for 1/2 studs.

https://static.dormanproducts.com/document/WheelLugStudAttributes.pdf

If you have the Dorman part number, you should be able to have your parts house look it up/order it. Assuming, of course, that your studs are a standard format press-in like on the page.

https://www.dormanproducts.com/Pages/products/wheel-hardware/index.aspx

Kinja'd!!! "Urambo Tauro" (urambotauro)
02/27/2017 at 17:07, STARS: 0

I don’t know what your options are size-wise, but yeah you should be able to pop those out and put longer ones in. Too bad you have to open up the bearings to get to them.

Kinja'd!!! "Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo" (rustyvandura)
02/27/2017 at 17:10, STARS: 0

Dave The Car Guy would know, in all likelihood. Thank you for posting the info. Some disassembly required in order to remove the existing studs.

This is the first project of its sort that I’ve ever undertaken, though I have taken extensive web-based training by watching Roadkill... Seriously though, I’ve turned many wrenches in my life and I have been startled by the magnitude of the task of simply getting a set of rollers on this vehicle that will hold air. Matching rims, tires all the same size. That’s all I ask.

Kinja'd!!! "Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo" (rustyvandura)
02/27/2017 at 17:13, STARS: 0

I think the axle shafts will have to come out of the rear end. Won’t know ‘til I pry off the brake drums.

Kinja'd!!! "Urambo Tauro" (urambotauro)
02/27/2017 at 17:22, STARS: 1

Yeah, depends on how much room there is. The rotors up front definitely will have to come off, though. Might as well re-pack the bearings at that point.

Kinja'd!!! "Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo" (rustyvandura)
02/27/2017 at 17:24, STARS: 0

We shall see. If I’d scared up steel wheels, I’d be golden right now. But I think there is ought to be said for the light weight of the aluminum ones. And all that stuff needs to come apart anyhow to make sure it’s serviceable.

Kinja'd!!! "benjrblant" (benjblant)
02/27/2017 at 17:30, STARS: 0

Are those the correct alloy lug nuts? Can’t tell from the pic.

Kinja'd!!! "RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
02/27/2017 at 17:32, STARS: 0

I had to source an exotic head size of Dorman stud with 1/2" thread myself for a project - because I wanted my project car to have the same lug pattern front and back. My front disc brake conversion gave me 5/4.5, but I originally had 5/4.75 in rear. Just like this:

Kinja'd!!!

Jaguar independent rear suspension hub - picture from Dazecars.com, from whom I got the drilling template.

Kinja'd!!! "Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo" (rustyvandura)
02/27/2017 at 17:35, STARS: 0

They’re the correct thread size...

Kinja'd!!! "benjrblant" (benjblant)
02/27/2017 at 17:38, STARS: 1

Kinja'd!!!

Acorn/tapered nuts are correct for steel wheels. If you’re moving to alloys/aluminum wheels, you’d need the “Mag seat” with a washer. This is to keep the nut from deforming the aluminum.

Kinja'd!!! "RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
02/27/2017 at 17:44, STARS: 1

Plenty of mag wheels have an acorn seat these days.

Kinja'd!!! "benjrblant" (benjblant)
02/27/2017 at 17:46, STARS: 0

Ah, wasn’t sure. Wanted to bring it up before something bad happened!

Kinja'd!!! "Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo" (rustyvandura)
02/27/2017 at 17:46, STARS: 1

Deez Nuts are tapered seat, but larger seats than the stock nuts for the steel wheels. Plenty of contact, but the mounting flange on the aluminum rim is 1/2-inch thicker than the steel Tim’s flange.

Kinja'd!!! "Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo" (rustyvandura)
03/01/2017 at 19:30, STARS: 0

http://oppositelock.kinja.com/hows-your-eyeball-calibration-1792876449?rev=1488414592310

Kinja'd!!! "Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo" (rustyvandura)
03/01/2017 at 19:31, STARS: 0

That’s way beyond my paygrade...

Sorry I let this one languish. Sometimes Kinja doesn’t tell me I have a notification.

Kinja'd!!! "RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
03/01/2017 at 21:41, STARS: 0

When I did mine, even with the template, I had as much as 5 thousandths walk. Fortunately, that’s close enough.

Kinja'd!!! "Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo" (rustyvandura)
03/02/2017 at 13:09, STARS: 0

I’d think that unless you’ll be driving at 200 mph, there’s be a little bit of margin there.

Kinja'd!!! "RamblinRover Luxury-Yacht" (ramblininexile)
03/02/2017 at 13:18, STARS: 0

Indeed. As long as the averaged center with the wheel torqued (i.e. all the different tiny variations fought to a draw) is somewhere near the actual rotational center, the deflections of everything in the system (even elastic deformation of the hub, but particularly tires) would be multiple orders of magnitude higher. You’d likely need to have the whole assembly near an eighth inch off center to have a profound effect.

Kinja'd!!! "Rusty Vandura - www.tinyurl.com/keepoppo" (rustyvandura)
03/02/2017 at 15:09, STARS: 0

Exactly as I’d see it, but I couldn’t have put it in those terms.