by "Chairman Kaga" (mike-mckinnon)
Published 02/19/2017 at 18:04
by "Chairman Kaga" (mike-mckinnon)
Published 02/19/2017 at 18:04
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Here’s a good video of the situation. You can watch the revs go nuts on the multi-meter beginning around : 40. It stalls out eventually, with more pronounced misfires starting around the 2:00 mark. Injectors check out, fuel pressure is good. Coil and ignition amplifier are both new. Distributor rotor is fairly new. Plugs are new. New plug wires on the way. Various sensors are all new with fresh wiring. All grounds cleaned and checked. I also swapped in my backup combo relay (the relay that provides power for everything from the fuel pump to the injectors) with no effect. It has to be a problem with the ignition electrics, right? Or maybe something as simple as bad gas?
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"TheTurbochargedSquirrel" (thatsquirrel)
02/19/2017 at 18:29, STARS: 1
Don’t know about the misfire, but I would be careful about what you are measuring with that Cen-Tech sploder-meter. They have basically zero input protection and can fail spectacularly. I once had one blow itself apart and start a fire on my bench.
"brianbrannon" (brianbrannon)
02/19/2017 at 18:45, STARS: 0
Do a check for clogged exhaust
"Chairman Kaga" (mike-mckinnon)
02/19/2017 at 18:47, STARS: 1
That sounds appropriate for my Alfa, actually.
I’m just using the inductive adapter on the coil wire. No contact with sensitive components!
"Urambo Tauro" (urambotauro)
02/19/2017 at 18:50, STARS: 0
Have you checked ignition timing?
Also, I see the flickering reading on the multimeter, but what is it measuring? No way is that thing idling at under 200RPM.
"aberson Bresident of the FullyAssed Committe" (emaxxbl)
02/19/2017 at 18:51, STARS: 1
checked fuel pressure?
"Chairman Kaga" (mike-mckinnon)
02/19/2017 at 18:52, STARS: 0
Maybe? When I was installing a replacement manifold I was using the old Shop-Vac method (shove the nozzle up the exhaust, turn it on, then listen at the seal with some vac hose attached to a funnel) to test for leaks and it was flowing clear.
The cat is original. Maybe it’s failing.
"random001" (random001)
02/19/2017 at 18:52, STARS: 0
Checked if the muffler bearings have been replace recently?
"gmporschenut also a fan of hondas" (gmporschenut)
02/19/2017 at 19:05, STARS: 1
Do you have any sort of temp sensor on the engine? For a long time my 914 would start run for a bit then run like shit after a few minutes min. from 5min to 10 min it would misfire and nearly stall, then run fine again. The temp sensor was crapping out causing it to run super rich, thinking the engine was fully warmed when it was still cold. Most temp sensors are simple thermal resistors
"TheTurbochargedSquirrel" (thatsquirrel)
02/19/2017 at 20:06, STARS: 0
I wouldn’t worry about whatever it is connected to. Just letting you know that as far as electrical tools go cheap multimeters are most likely to explode.
"Die-Trying" (die-trying)
04/26/2017 at 16:18, STARS: 0
sometimes tachs fail internally, and can cause weird ignition issues. have you tried unplugging the tach lead and running the engine?......
"Chairman Kaga" (mike-mckinnon)
04/26/2017 at 16:24, STARS: 1
Yeah, that’s actually a common diagnosis. You can tell in an L-Jet car, though. The tach needle in the car will suddenly fall to the stop then jump back up while it’s stalling. Mine stays more or less smooth and level, even while it’s missing before the stall. We’re narrowing this down to a dying AFM, actually. I picked up two good spares, as well as a matching pair of ECUs, and will be doing to swapping this weekend.