by "HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
Published 02/07/2017 at 17:19
by "HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
Published 02/07/2017 at 17:19
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Looking at a late model XC70, which ones are the ones to avoid. I hear the FWD 3.2 is the reliable one but the 3.0T seems like it sure would be a nice to have at elevation.
Thoughts.
"TFSIVTEC drivesavolvo" (drivesaswedishcarmadeinbelgium-)
02/07/2017 at 17:26, STARS: 0
Why did Volvo even offer a FWD XC70? It just seems to defeat the purpose of additional ground clearance and unpainted cladding.
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
02/07/2017 at 17:28, STARS: 0
yeah, I was a little confused by that too, but then I remembered that a lot of the AWD ones end up as FWD anyway so may as well save a little money?
"Cé hé sin" (michael-m-mouse)
02/07/2017 at 17:34, STARS: 0
Can’t help, lives in Volvo = diesel world.
"CompactLuxuryFan" (compactluxury)
02/07/2017 at 17:39, STARS: 0
I’d imagine a big price difference between 3.2 FWD and T6 AWD (especially the yummy Polestar massaged ones). So depends on budget, I guess? Engines seem to be among the more reliable parts of Volvos anyway...
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
02/07/2017 at 17:40, STARS: 0
There is one (this one) that’s been sitting on the lot for a while, I was going to make them an offer and see how low they would go. Im hoping for 27k with CPO warranty.
"OPPOsaurus WRX" (opposaurus)
02/07/2017 at 17:42, STARS: 0
There is a Jag XJ8 next to a Land Rover dealer near me that has been sitting for a LOOONNNGGGG time. I want it.
"TFSIVTEC drivesavolvo" (drivesaswedishcarmadeinbelgium-)
02/07/2017 at 17:45, STARS: 0
The Haldex rear ends have replaceable pumps and if the module fails you can swap that out without even removing the rear differential.
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
02/07/2017 at 17:46, STARS: 0
thats what I hear.
"benjrblant" (benjblant)
02/07/2017 at 17:55, STARS: 0
nice to have at elevation.
Mmmm... the 1FZ starts crying at 6,000+ft. We stop passing other vehicles at 5500ft. It’s rough when you live at 5300ft.
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
02/07/2017 at 17:57, STARS: 0
I know that feel, my house is is about 5000 feet up.
"CompactLuxuryFan" (compactluxury)
02/07/2017 at 18:02, STARS: 0
Which one? That’s such a hot price range. You can get so many different cars for $27k! You should be fine. So many options actually kinda put me off buying anything, since that’s probably around where I’d be looking, but clearly it’s good if you know what you want!
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
02/07/2017 at 18:03, STARS: 0
There are lots of options...unless you want a wagon.
"R Saldana [|Oo|======|oO|] - BTC/ETH/LTC Prophet" (r-saldana)
02/07/2017 at 18:07, STARS: 0
Is that Bluff City JLR in Memphis, TN?
"CompactLuxuryFan" (compactluxury)
02/07/2017 at 18:11, STARS: 0
Sad :( Definitely not getting better any time soon. $27k with the option of used will get you pretty much anything ever sold in the US, it’s just so few wagons ever were.
I’ve always thought of the XC70 as the Allroad-ized version of the V70, so not quite a true wagon in my book. But it’s still better than an SUV. If you do count that as wagon, things aren’t nearly as bleak at the moment. You go from like two options to like 5!
"EL_ULY" (uly)
02/07/2017 at 18:16, STARS: 0
Rear Active On Demand Coupling (Haldex) pump
Part number 31367750. Price $359.84
Rear Active On Demand Coupling (Haldex) module
Part number 36011386. Price $1164.93
We have done 8 pumps in the last 4 years and zero modules.
So yep, pretty dang solid in the rear end i’d say :]
"EL_ULY" (uly)
02/07/2017 at 18:18, STARS: 0
If I had the money to get any current Volvo, i’d get a 2015 XC70 with the 3.0T AWD.
I’ve been a Volvo master tech and a parts master. Oh I wish I could have a 2015 XC70 T6 AWD sooo bad. Maximum levels of WANT sauce
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
02/07/2017 at 18:19, STARS: 0
Whats the difference between 2014 and 2015. This is a 2014
"EL_ULY" (uly)
02/07/2017 at 18:31, STARS: 0
Nothing lol :] I forget which year they did the LED rear running light bars. I think it was 2014
There may be some random parts that have a chassis break between those years but nothing obvious, mostly trim and small things. Mechanically they are the same
In 2016 only, the 6 cylinder was replaced by the 4cyl for FWD and the oooold S40,C30,C70 T5 engine for the AWD variant
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
02/07/2017 at 18:34, STARS: 0
Hmm, I’ll have to wander down there and see what I can talk them down too. Its overpriced for similar models on the CPO site and it doesn’t mention it being CPO so I think I can get it got a lot less than they are asking.
"EL_ULY" (uly)
02/07/2017 at 18:43, STARS: 0
we’ve had some 14's with 30,000ish miles as low as $22k
"HammerheadFistpunch" (hammerheadfistpunch)
02/07/2017 at 18:46, STARS: 0
yeah, this has nearly 50k and they want 29k. That aint happening.
"OPPOsaurus WRX" (opposaurus)
02/07/2017 at 18:48, STARS: 0
Norwell, MA. About half an hour south of Boston
"EL_ULY" (uly)
02/07/2017 at 18:56, STARS: 0
heeeeeeelllz no!
TooDamnHigh.jpg
"JQJ213- Now With An Extra Cylinder!" (jqj213)
02/07/2017 at 21:02, STARS: 0
I love the XC70s!
From my understanding, the 3.2 is more reliable but is a little underpowered for the size of the car. The T6 is a beast, but requires premium and might be a little worse if something goes wrong.
"Spasoje" (Spasoje)
02/07/2017 at 21:21, STARS: 0
Hey dude, I have a Volvo service question for you. Unrelated to the main thread, but since Oppo has no messaging system...
So my 2009 XC90 was due for its 144k km service ~6mo ago. At the visit prior to that (this same dealer has done all the services, save for one, since I bought the car new), they said the pads were getting low-ish, and they figured I’d have to have them replaced at 144k.
During the 144k service, they said they now saw the rotors were worn out, too! Since Volvo allegedly doesn’t allow rotors to be machined (“that’s not within spec”), they suggested to replace the rotors as well. Now, my brakes weren’t squeaking, BUT I had noticed less resistance in the brake pedal, and I had to dig into more of the pedal’s travel to brake at any speed. So, being that brakes are important, I ok-ed the extra several hundred dollars’ expense...
So, at 144k 6mo ago, they replaced front pads, front rotors, and did a brake fluid flush. (the rear pads were practically still new at 10mm at that time)
When I picked the car up, I noticed that there now
was
a bit more resistance in the pedal and less pedal travel was necessary to brake, but still not nearly like it was when the car was new (the brakes had been fantastically strong since new up until then). Given both the unexpected large expense, a busy schedule, and the fact that I was already tired by that time, I didn’t think to go back and complain.
Fast forward to now. The XC90's 156k km service is booked for next week, at the same dealer. I mentioned that the brakes never felt as strong as they should from when I picked it up last time to now: I have to push the pedal ALL THE WAY TO THE END OF ITS TRAVEL to brake from normal speeds now (my dad and I drive the car mostly, he’s noticed the exact same thing). I even had ABS come on for a sec when I was slowing down for a red light at 50km/h. It feels like they didn’t even touch the pads, much less replace them...
My hope is for them to remedy the problem next week, at their expense, after which I’ll try a different dealer (there’s only one other choice around here, more or less), but I want to be informed before I go.
What is your take on all this? Why are my brakes still weak? It can’t be normal...
(also relevant: bought new tires at 150k km, no change in braking)
"Spasoje" (Spasoje)
02/07/2017 at 21:22, STARS: 0
IIRC, that was right after they discontinued the V70 for the US market.
"Spasoje" (Spasoje)
02/07/2017 at 21:28, STARS: 1
I own an XC90 3.2 AWD (~100k mi so far), and have driven two S80 3.2s, one AWD, one FWD. The 3.2 is bulletproof! Power is adequate in the XC90, but the V70/XC70/S80 with the 3.2 are noticeably quicker...
That said, the 3.0 T6 would be my engine of choice. Haven’t noticed any horror stories on the forums, and the power delivery is very good. Were that T6 available for my XC90, I’d have chosen it over both the 3.2 and the V8...
Happy shopping, and keep us posted!
"TFSIVTEC drivesavolvo" (drivesaswedishcarmadeinbelgium-)
02/08/2017 at 07:26, STARS: 0
I worked at a Ford dealer for over 4 years and never saw a bad pump and only did one module. Probably because very few ford models had that rear end (FiveHundred, Freestyle & Montego). I’m actually surprised I never got a bad pump.
"EL_ULY" (uly)
02/08/2017 at 10:36, STARS: 1
Volvo parts possibility : Wrong pad/rotors/ both
On the XC90, there are several different options for brake pads and rotors. Each XC90 is looked at via the VIN to see which front brakes it takes. First, the size. There are 3 different rotor sizes and brake pad sizes for 03-14 XC90. Also different is the pad compound. They offer long life, standard, and comfort brake pads. Have them confirm that the part numbers installed are what the VIN on your vehicle call for.
Volvo parts possibility : Part number change
Volvo tends to update part numbers and change part manufacturers very frequently. Another possibility is that the parts original to your XC90 have change from when you bought it to the new parts variable today.
Mechanical : Air in system (what I feel is the issue)
You mentioned that they bled the fluid per the flush. Perhaps the tech didn’t do it properly. Perhaps the suction tool used was faulty and some air bubble where introduced once the bleeder valve was opened. ABS codes may not be active in system health check for this.
Mechanical : damaged master cylinder
When installing front brake pads, the caliper pistons have to be pressed in. I’ve seen cases where tech push them in too fast and cause damage to the seals inside the master cylinder.
Mechanical : sliding caliper pins
Have the shop check the sliding pins on the caliper to make sure the boots are not torn and that they are not seized.
Mechanical: Brake vacuum pump reseal
Common on Volvos with either the 3.2 I6 or 3.0 T6 is an engine oil leak in the brake vacuum pump located on the back of the head. Almost every single 6 cylinder engine has had an oil leak from that vacuum pump. What we do is take the brake pump off and use Volvo’s reseal kit that consist of o-ring seals and an air valve. Possibly this has been performed on your vehicle and was not done correctly.
Go forward with the explanation that it has been performing differently since the brake job was performed. If it’s been under 2 years ago it was performed, there is a factory warranty on those parts and labor
"EL_ULY" (uly)
02/08/2017 at 11:01, STARS: 0
heck yeah, those things were overall pretty sold....... except on the 03-08 V8 and TT I6 XC90. Those seem to be the only ones needing them after 150K
"For Sweden" (rallybeetle)
02/08/2017 at 12:40, STARS: 0
Oh wow o_o do they think you’re Danish or something?
"TFSIVTEC drivesavolvo" (drivesaswedishcarmadeinbelgium-)
02/08/2017 at 13:52, STARS: 0
Hopefully the one in my S40 holds up...
"Spasoje" (Spasoje)
02/09/2017 at 15:05, STARS: 0
Fantastic info, thank you so much!! Definitely armed with knowledge for the appointment now.
"Spasoje" (Spasoje)
02/14/2017 at 19:35, STARS: 0
Just following up – you were right!
I didn’t specifically ask them to re-do the flush... All I said was it’s as if they forgot to put new pads in, or like there was air in the brake fluid.
When I picked it up, the advisor said they found the brakes to feel completely normal, yet they went ahead and re-did the flush, no charge... Drove the ~25km home (healthy mix of both city and highway driving), and it’s clear the brakes are back to normal again.
Thanks again, man!
"EL_ULY" (uly)
02/14/2017 at 22:11, STARS: 1
No problemo. All it takes is a little bubble. The vehicle will let you know yet props to your sense of feel to make a note. I’ve done a bazillion but I do remember of maybe 2 occasions that either my bleed tool had a hiccup or I slipped trying to close the little bleeder screw before letting a bubble in. A test drive after service may not catch it. Not anything hard to redo so i’m glad everything ended up rad. For any other questions, email me at ulysses@starmotorcars.com
"Spasoje" (Spasoje)
09/13/2017 at 22:09, STARS: 1
Hey Uly, hope you’re doing well after all that biblical weather!
Tried emailing, but I guess your guys’ email servers block Gmail (wouldn’t be the first time...). Turns out we’re not out of the woods with the braking issue yet, so I wanted to get your thoughts again before I pull the trigger on a repair.
My XC90's brakes indeed felt fixed the day I picked it up, but that intermittent ‘weak brakes’ feeling came right back the day after... The symptoms haven’t changed – still have to press the pedal much harder to brake a given amount, some of the time – aside from an intermittent clunk from the firewall area when starting to brake, which I didn’t notice before.
In the meantime, I did end up taking it to a different dealer for its following regular service (168k km). I brought the problem up: they bled the fluid, and found nothing wrong with any hardware. However, unlike the previous dealer, they DID notice the odd brake pedal feel.
They diagnosed it as a bad master cylinder. The SA actually called the tech that worked on my car over, who said that (a) by process of elimination, that’s all it could be, and (b) he had seen that exact problem twice before, and replacing the master cylinder did the trick in both cases.
Sounds reasonable to me, though I wanted to run it by you before spending north of $600. The last thing I want is to go on a costly wild goose chase like w/ my MkIV Jetta hehe
"EL_ULY" (uly)
09/14/2017 at 09:14, STARS: 0
yeah a lot of our network is mega screwie as of late. Internet was out most of the week last week lol.
Indeed they are correct when they say a master cylinder failure is not common. I don’t think we’ve ever done this repair. Only once on a 2013 S80 3.2L and 1 or 2 brake boosters plus about 80 bazillion brake vacuum pump re-seals (because of a oil leak).
My first recommendation would also be the master cylinder honestly. There are 2 pistons inside of it and fluid may be slipping my one causing that symptom. Hard to say without driving it and running through any error codes and fault trace with the car is plugged in to a VIDA device.
"Spasoje" (Spasoje)
09/16/2017 at 13:06, STARS: 0
Thanks again! They didn’t find any fault codes at all, from what I gather (but I don’t know if they drove it with any devices plugged in). They did specifically say there are zero leaks visible anywhere. I just tested the brake booster, and it seems to be functioning fine (i.e. the pedal gets higher if you push it a couple times after shutting the engine off).
"Spasoje" (Spasoje)
02/27/2018 at 02:20, STARS: 0
Hey Uly,
Turns out that braking problem (from the thread above) is back again. Replacing the master cylinder at 175k kms (it has 184k now) didn’t do the trick...
It genuinely felt fixed for a little while after that repair, but we’re back to square one now: the pedal feels like it has almost no resistance when I press it, and I have to get deep into the pedal travel in order to stop at city speeds. The brakes feel weak, and it seems like the braking distances are longer.
What’s the best course of action to take now? We heavily depend on this car lol
"EL_ULY" (uly)
02/28/2018 at 14:01, STARS: 1
Let me consult a fellow tech here to see if we could add to the fault trace in the previous replies. I am crossing my fingers the ABS pump isn’t acting up
"Spasoje" (Spasoje)
02/28/2018 at 17:25, STARS: 0
Thanks, man! Lemme know if you need any more info from my end.
"EL_ULY" (uly)
03/06/2018 at 18:46, STARS: 1
I asked around but it has come to a point where we had to have the car in person. Diag procedure has us in VIDA checking readings from the DSTC/ABS after eliminating air in the system, stuck pins, and other basic mechanical items.
"Spasoje" (Spasoje)
03/07/2018 at 00:44, STARS: 0
Thanks for looking into it! One question before I give it to the dealer for further diagnosis – is it possible that fault codes are generated even when no warnings show up on the dash? Haven’t had a single warning message show up this entire time.